2001 X5 E53 Window Motor Bad - Stuck Down

[Danno54]

As the title suggests I believe the front passenger side window motor went bad. I was driving and lowered the window about 3 or 4 inches and when I tried to close it a few minutes later it would not move up. It would lower further but would not go up even one little bit. Eventually I had the window all the way down and that's where it is stuck now. I'm thinking the motor may be bad because when I push the switch to operate the window down it makes a sound and the interior lights dim. When I push the switch to operate the window up it does not make a sound and the lights do not dim. Same thing occurs with both front switches. I have the door panel and vapor barrier removed and I've tried to help the window up while operating the switch and it does not move. I will need to get the window up a few inches to get to the screws to release the window glass so I can remove the regulator assembly to inspect or test the motor (or regulator if necessary). I don't want to cut the cables if I don't have to because I suspect the regulator itself may be good. (maybe not though). How can I get the window to go up some so I can get to the screw to release the glass?

Thanks.
Dan

[amancuso]

Dan, it's most likely the regulator, mine did the same thing, but on the driver's side.

[andrewwynn]

The motor uses only one set of windings it changes the polarity to go up versus down. If the lights dim on the switch up then it's the not the switch and it's probably the regulator. If the light does not dim and you hear no attempt at the motor moving on a upcoming and then it's probably the switch


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[Crowz]

Ive got a bunch of bmw's and have replaced more regulators on my bmw's than I have spark plugs, brakes, and air filters on any other vehicle I have ever owned.

My money is on the regulator. I have never had a motor go bad on one. It has always been the regulator. I even stock regulators now so I can just pull on from my cache when needed.

All friends and family know not to touch my window switches on my bmw's. They even quote my moto back to me when the subject comes up.

"Its not IF the regulator is going to fail, its a matter of WHEN its going to fail."

Now one thing I did find interesting was I did find a way to stop them from failing all the time FINALLY.

First if you keep the rubber insulation lubricated with something like gummi fledge and such it greatly extends the life of the regulators.

But the solution strangely enough (at least so far) is to tint the windows. The window tint keeps the windows from sticking to the rubber and killing the regulator.

So far at least. The ones I tinted have gone years now with no more regulators.

[andrewwynn]

That's a great advice. My driver window is really pokey and I need to replace the regulator soon. Have a good reference guide to share?


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[Crowz]

I just went on youtube when ever I did the first one on each type of bmw.

After watching one you will see how easy it is.

Each one has its own quirks. E46's are great if the window is stuck since its easy to get to the mounting points and doesn't require removing the glass. E39's require the window to be a certain location but the regulator is easier to get out of the door once you get past that part but e39's require removing the glass to get to the top bolts on the back doors for instance.

I haven't had one go bad yet on my X5 and it has window tint so I'm hoping they last awhile.

[Eurowhip]

Bummer, that just happened to me as well (while I was having my windows tinted funny enough) I had to have the regulator replaced. I hear it’s a common problem.

Ended up costing me $300 from a local Indy shop. BMW quoted $700

It was a quick repair, they were done in less than two hours.

Good luck!

[Crowz]

I found a place I buy them from for $24 or maybe it was $30 something. I cant remember. That was for the e39 and the e46. Havent bought any for the e53 yet but I guess I should to stock up.

[Danno54]

Thanks for the responses.

I did initially suspect a bad regulator but if it was a bad regulator wouldn't the lights dim and the motor grunt when I operate the switch in the up position? As if the motor is trying but the window mechanism is binding? If it were the switch wouldn't one of the two switches still work? What are the odds that both the driver side switch and passenger side switch both went bad? In any case I guess there is no way to get that sucker out when the window is stuck all the way down other than cutting the cable. Is that correct? Maybe I'll take the connector off the motor and see if I can put 12V directly to it.

[kmm111]

The odds are low that both switches failed. The question should be do you regularly use both switches & know them to be working? Often the passenger (or similar) switch may fail but you the driver doesn’t notice it, until your (drivers door) switch fails. You can easily test for proper power & ground going in & out of the switch on the passenger door, or at the motor itself. Just remember the power & grounds reverse to run the motor in the opposite direction.