2001 X5 E53 Window Motor Bad - Stuck Down

[Danno54]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

No click means the relay is broken or not getting power (switch broken). The switches may be wired in series so that if driver master switch is broken it can interfere with operation.

I would suspect the relay. Measure voltage at the control pin of the relay. I've not looked into but it may be a combined part for up/down so operate the switch down to find the click of the relay.

My prime suspect is now the primary side of the relay. It's getting voltage but not picking up.

If you operate the up switch and voltage goes to "12" on the relay control pin then I've am correct it's the relay.

If you don't get voltage on the relay control pin then it's switch or wiring.

You can measure voltage coming out of the switch as well to determine if the switch is working.

The limit switch seems to be down steam of the power relay (since can still hear relay click when window is at the limit but motor doesn't run).


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Thanks. I may explore the relays. I dismantled the passenger switch and I believe the relay is the large tan component in the lower left corner.



https://flic.kr/p/Csx1fa

[Danno54]

It looks like replacement relays are available. I think I'll try replacing them. I'll do the driver side first and see what happen. I'll report the results.

Here's a photo of the passenger side circuit board. The relay is the large tan component in the lower left corner.

https://flic.kr/p/Csx1fa

[andrewwynn]

The relay is on the door where the window isn't working. If you show me a pic of the bottom and any model number on the relay I can tell you where to test to confirm the relay is the problem vs a switch or electronics.

edit: your photo had the part # on it: tyco+ V23078-L1002-A303

It's a special relay that reverses polarity to the output terminals, shorting both to ground when not operational.

The small pins on the ends are the control pins; if you can plug it back in and test it, you should have voltage on the small pins when the switch is activated (up/down). one side for up one for down. If you get a '12v' reading across the small pins on both sides, the switches are fine and the relay is shot.

If you don't get voltage on the control pins then there is a switch or wiring problem. If you get voltage and the relay does click then it says the problem is down-stream; limit switch or wiring, but i think you said no click in the down position.

[andrewwynn]

I just noticed you are in waukegan: I drive past frequently. I have some high-end soldering gear including the proper machine to desolder PCB soldered in relays, i could work in a stop on my way to/from chicago to help replace that relay if you determine that's the problem.

a search on the exact part # showed them for sale on eBay, but can also order from digikey, probably about $5-10.

[Danno54]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I just noticed you are in waukegan: I drive past frequently. I have some high-end soldering gear including the proper machine to desolder PCB soldered in relays, i could work in a stop on my way to/from chicago to help replace that relay if you determine that's the problem.

a search on the exact part # showed them for sale on eBay, but can also order from digikey, probably about $5-10.

Thanks for the excellent information. I will test the relay as you suggest. I did see that they are available on eBay. I'll probably order a couple. I really appreciate the offer to help. That's very kind of you but I can do it. I have a solder sucker. It works but not great. I hate desoldering stuff.

I see you are from Racine. Coincidentally I have a trip planned to the far South end of Racine (near Durand and Sheridan Rd) this Monday or Tuesday.

[andrewwynn]

I hated desolder jobs enough to buy a metcal desolder gun. It has a hollow heating tip that is in a "gun" that uses shop air to make a vacuum and suck the solder. It's amazing in action. If the sucker let's you down let me know. I'm in Chicago from mon to thu.


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[Danno54]

I explored the right front switch and found out the circuit board has some corrosion on the bottom corner where the relay is located. About 3 months ago I accidentally left the window open while it was raining. The switch enclosure is in such a position that any water that leaks into it will collect in the bottom corner and eventually cause problems. I think the relay is sealed and only a small corner of the circuit board is damaged. It looks like I may be able to repair a couple of bad traces on the circuit board. This has to be fairly common due to the position of the circuit board and the way the enclosure is designed.

Here's a photo of the damaged corner.

https://flic.kr/p/CuZp92

[andrewwynn]

Bingo. Those are exactly the control pins for the motor relay! Wire some jumper wires parallel to the traces on the board I think you'll fix it!


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[Danno54]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Bingo. Those are exactly the control pins for the motor relay! Wire some jumper wires parallel to the traces on the board I think you'll fix it!


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Success!

There was one bad trace on the board. It was very narrow so it was bound to be the first to go from that corrosion. I love that kind of repair. It took some time but no cost for parts (well except for maybe 10 cents for the wire and solder). Thanks to everyone for helping me figure it out and thanks again andrewwynn for the offer to help fix it! I hope this helps someone in the future. I can't be the only one dumb enough to leave the window wide open when it's raining.

[andrewwynn]

Sa weet! I'm glad you started the thread since it encouraged me to look into both mine and wife's slow windows which I thought were worn regulators but just needed some lubrication on the window rails. 60% faster closing and matches the other windows now.


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