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#1
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Added ATF for power steering, but still pretty stiff?
) out and added some Castrol Dexron VI(couldn't find the Dexron III).After I added the Castrol Dexron VI it got a lot better, the loud noise is gone, and it's much easier to turn the steering wheel. However, the steering wheel is still pretty stiff(much better than before tho) when I'm making a turn WITHOUT hitting the gas pedal. Anyone know what's the cause of that? Maybe I should drain the ATF a few more times in order to fix this? |
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#2
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The pump may be getting weak, but it is likely the fluid. You saw how big a change the bit you changed made. But yeah, the turkey baster method only gets a small portion of the fluid... the more you change out the better.
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"When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all" (Bender, futurama) You make something idiotproof, they'll make a better idiot You think professional is expensive, just wait until you pay for amateur. Never let your sense of morals prevent you from doing what is right. Examine what is said, not who speaks. X5 pics RIP 4.6is..... 2003 4.6is
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#3
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Disconnecting the line from below and turning the wheel lock to lock (on a lift or jacked on each side) is the best way to flush the fluid. The turkey baster hardly gets anything out. If you really want to flush...do a drain and fill, run the engine for a few minutes and do it again. At most you maybe use 2 quarts of fluid.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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#4
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Quote:
(btw how much does the bump cost? lol)
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#5
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Quote:
Are there any kind of diagram on which line I should disconnect? I never messed with the power steering stuff so I have no clue...
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#6
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Find the lowest connection...I'm going to be doing mine in a few days since I've got a leaky line. Once the line is off, I turn the wheel lock to lock to force out all the stuff in the lines...makes a mess, but at least she's fully empty. Bleeding is super easy, just pour some fluid in (not to the fill line yet), start the car, turn the wheel lock to lock again, then top as needed.
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650hp 10 X5///M - Stage 2, Vibrant 1794's , gutted cats, custom intake, AC Forged 22's 325hp 98 BMW 740iL - ///M5 6spd, www.bavengine.com w/ Performance Option, electric fan, CF intake tube w/ heatshield, Mag 14816 w/ notched bumper, Bilstein/H&R Stage II/Powerflex 600+hp 02 Harley F150 - MHP900 Stage 3 engine, KB2.3, 8# lower, 60# inj, Walbro FP's 135hp 01 TL1000R - M4 full exhaust, K&N, Yosh box, -1/+2 gears, 2CT's
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#7
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I have a problem that is simular... I have about 3 stiff spots. as I turn the wheel. The spots seam to be at the same position as I turn full left, full right.
Any help? |
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