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Stumped...
Replacing A Leaking Valve Cover Gasket On Your BMW. | BMW Tech Tips, How-tos and News - Bavarian Autosport Blog I ran into a couple of problems while dissembling everything. For starters, the remote battery terminal that is supposed to be attached to the right valve cover is not there. Instead it is attached to the firewall, but it snakes in a very unusual direction. It comes up the right side of the engine, over the valve cover, under the intake manifold, out the rear of the engine, and then connects to the firewall near the master cylinder. I can not understand why it is routed like this. It makes the valve cover removal a major task. Is this standard? Everything I have been reading does not show this setup like I explained. I would like to reroute the wire and not go underneath the intake manifold. Also, there is a small hose about 1/4 of an inch that was connected to the bottom of the intake manifold, but was severed and covered with oil. What is this hose, and what does it connect? Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. |
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#2
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Quote:
mine is on the firewall as well. i do not see any issue with rerouting it, just mind the hot areas. that hose i may just a breather hose. but check the routing of the secondary air flow system which has a small hose that connects to a valve near the secondary air pump underneath the Air Filter Box and back to air intake pipe somewheres... that bav auto site is good. i recommend new nuts / bolts / and rubber washers. check this site out: RealOEM.com * Online BMW Parts Catalog
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#3
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Im doing to work my self, waterpump, valley pan, valve cover, and seperator hose replacements. Its a Pita and thinking why BMW routed the power terminal under the intake manifold just angers me.
That cable routes under the coolant pipes and are attached the valley pan cover plate via 3 plastic wire straps. I couldn't find a way to get more slack from the bottom, and since I was opening up the intake manifold anyways I skipped my valve cover gasket repair till after I was done with the valley pan. Also If you are replacing your oil seperator hoses, there are the obvious two hoses above the intake runners in the rear, but if those are putty its a great bet that the oil return lines that are associated with the OSV is also putty. I replaced the two hoses above my intake manifold 2 years ago, but when I took out the intake manifold lastnight, I ripped these hoses, and upon inspection they were putty aswell. Still havent decided if I would go with the OEM/Bulk hoses to replace these (they are straight hoses) or if I would go with a silicone hose instead, should handle the heat and oil with no issues. |
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#4
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That 1/4 hose is one of the said hoses I mentioned. It routes on the bottom of the Oil seperator valve to the oil return line. If the top ones are putty then the bottom ones are aswell. There is also a oil return hose maybe 1/8 dia hose, which routes from the bottom of the intake manifold to the oil return pipe. ![]() said hoses are 9 and 12 |
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#5
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Ah, I did not realize that the wacky remote terminal routing is so common. Why would BMW route the wire like this? It makes absolutely no sense. Also, I HATE the hose clamps that BMW used for the oil separator. The ones that do not have a screw and are crimped together. Is there a trick to easily remove them?
I ordered the oil separator, both oil separator hoses, the oil return hose (12), and the screw hose clamps from bimmerspecialist.ca. These guys have great prices and awesome customer service. They sold me all the parts and next day/saturday delivery for $120. I tonight I am going to reroute the remote power terminal and replace the valve cover gaskets. I thought about routing the cable along the driver side fender wall. Any suggestions? |
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#6
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As for the clamps when I replaced mine 2 years ago I judt cut them and bought generic hose clamps. Worked perfect as they had a 6mm nut w/ a flat head. But the nut was perfect for a small socket in the tight places.
As for the terminal I am going to route it ontop of the drivers side valve cover as there are mou mounting holes there like the e39. You can cut it short or route it safely along side the wheelwell/ fender. And then place it on the valve cover. |
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#7
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Strike that idea ontop of the valve cover. Forgot there was a wire behind the plastic bulkhead. Just run the power lead along the fenderwell and cut it short. Looking at the connector its just a flat tab crimped and then soldered onto the wire it self.
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#8
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Today I finished replacing the valve cover gaskets, oil separator, and oil separator hoses. Unfortunately, the Service Engine Soon light is still on, and it is misfiring very bad at low RPMs. Once the RPMs are above 3k, it seems like the misfiring disappears. The SES codes are the following:
P1161 P1347 P1349 P1341 I do not understand why it is misfiring. Could it be the Camshaft Position Sensor? Any other ideas? |
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#9
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Check the plugs and for any vaccum leaks. Also check to see any loose couplings near the maf/ intakr.
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#10
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I replace a few vacuum hoses and double checked the old ones, but I did not see any that were loose or cracked. I find it odd that the codes are signifying cylinder 3 and cylinder 4. Is it possible that the oil that had accumulated around the coilpack and spark plug because of the leaky valve cover gasket could cause the coilpack to fail?
Last edited by Valyk; 10-25-2010 at 11:55 AM. |
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