Brake Fluid Leak - Drivers Side

[msammy]

OK, I just had the brakes done all around (rotors, pads, fluid flush) around 2 months ago. I noticed yesterday, the brake pedal felt spongy, wanting to fade to the floor at a full stop. I noticed I have brake fluid leaking just behind the front driver side wheel; about 12 inches back from the wheel well. Brake fluid tank is 1/2 full and dropping fast. I know the rear brake line is routed right in that area. What I don't understand is why a brake line would simply fail like that. Since it's enclosed up above all the plastic panels under the car and below the door, why would a brake line just decide to start leaking fluid? Any help would be appreciated.

[Eurosport]

i'm willing to bet it's coming from your controller unit (aluminum block where all the lines meet, under the coolant expansion tank).
w/out looking at it of course ;p
i really hope it's not that though, trust me i had to drive 2 miles on hilly roads with just manual switching and using ebrake and to change it you have to pull out driver's headlight, a pita to change since space is limited and unlike every other car on the road the placement of it is horrible...
did i mention they run for 2k from dealer, about $600 from junk yards?

[Weasel]

If someone just did a flush have it towed to them at their expense so that they can fix it. Odds are someone made a mistake and left something loose, and you do NOT want to be driving if the fluid in the master cylinder runs out leaving you unable to stop.

[msammy]

Weasel; please take a look at this diagram. It appears the leak is occurring in the area with part #2, (where #1 & #3 come together) looks to be just behind the driver’s front wheel. If a flush was performed, would they disconnect this section in order to do so and is it possible they didn't tighten properly? I dropped it off tonight to my Indy (who did the brakes and flush) and he'll take a look at it in the am. The "check brake fluid" and "DSC inactive" message came up while I was driving to the shop. I hope it's an easy fix and inexpensive repair.

[Brit6]

Msammy: did you fix this? I have the EXACT same problem and my indy mech says the salt and snow bundles up against the plastic and causes the line to rust out. He said he can patch it with pressure fitted lines, about a couple hundred dollars and he has done a few before.

Originally Posted by msammy

Weasel; please take a look at this diagram. It appears the leak is occurring in the area with part #2, (where #1 & #3 come together) looks to be just behind the driver’s front wheel. If a flush was performed, would they disconnect this section in order to do so and is it possible they didn't tighten properly? I dropped it off tonight to my Indy (who did the brakes and flush) and he'll take a look at it in the am. The "check brake fluid" and "DSC inactive" message came up while I was driving to the shop. I hope it's an easy fix and inexpensive repair.

[JCL]

Not Msammy here, but as long as your mechanic can get back to where the lines are solid on both sides of the rusted line, it isn't a big deal to replace a rusted section with a new piece of brake line. All he needs is the flaring kit and fittings.

[Brit6]

He said it depends on if both are rusted or just one. Would it be better to use lines from the dealer or aftermarket preassure fitted ones for the fix?

Originally Posted by JCL

Not Msammy here, but as long as your mechanic can get back to where the lines are solid on both sides of the rusted line, it isn't a big deal to replace a rusted section with a new piece of brake line. All he needs is the flaring kit and fittings.

[Weasel]

That is not taken loose for a brake flush, only the bleed screws at the calipers really. Hopefully it is just a matter of tightening the lines in the connector and maybe a quick bleed of that line from the caliper end.

[jhb]

I had leak in the same location, behind driver front wheel. Mine failed suddenly. Turns out the lines whent through an area where the plastic bottom protectors was holding water against the lines causing them to rust from the outside. My Local tech put in a patch.

I also have a failed master cylinder, but its not leaking. I have not yet bothered to replace it. At this point, i see no reason I should. Brakes work fine, just need a little extra travel.

[JCL]

Originally Posted by jhb

I also have a failed master cylinder, but its not leaking. I have not yet bothered to replace it. At this point, i see no reason I should. Brakes work fine, just need a little extra travel.

That can indicate a failure on one of the circuits in the master cylinder, meaning you have less braking. Not a good idea to keep driving it. When the second circuit fails you have nothing to stop you except the car in front.