What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[Clavurion]

Originally Posted by guntherrex

Why would I check the motor mounts?

If engine mounts are worn the engine can move so much that edges of the fan blades can touch fan shroud. If this happens the blades can snap. All it takes is loosing one blade and the imbalance can destroy the rest.

[sandbagger]

Originally Posted by Overboost

The 25mm spacers wanted to be a problem, they had set up a homestead on the rear hub/rotor

That is also why the wheel to hub interface along with the wheel bolts get a nice coat of antiseize any time they come apart. And NO it does not cause wheel bolts to back off and loose torque

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by sandbagger

That is also why the wheel to hub interface along with the wheel bolts get a nice coat of antiseize any time they come apart. And NO it does not cause wheel bolts to back off and loose torque

It wasn't really that bad. On the DRA spacers, I just used some 45mm lugs I have to put into the wheel bolt holes and once the bottom out against the rotor, it pulls the spacer right off.

I did wire wheel the spacers and hub to clean them back up and used some antiseize before reassembly.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by sandbagger

That is also why the wheel to hub interface along with the wheel bolts get a nice coat of antiseize any time they come apart. And NO it does not cause wheel bolts to back off and loose torque

The problrm isn't that there bolts will come loose, lubricating the thrrads multiplies the effective torque by about 1.33 so torquing to 100 ft·lb lubricated is similar to 133 ft·lb dry. Thus, the proper torque for X5 with lubricated lugs would be about 75 ft·lb. (which would just feel wrong).


With regular maintenance where a wheel comes off more than annually, I see no reason to put antiseize on the lugs. The only time I had problems taking off a lug is when the cone welded itself to the hub. That can't happen with floating cone lugs (well the cone still could weld to a wheel but it won't affect removal).

Hub, however, absolutely! I wire wheel and antisieze the hub every time I remove a wheel. I have had to resort to loosen the lugs and drive a car around to break a hub loose in the past.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by Overboost

It wasn't really that bad. On the DRA spacers, I just used some 45mm lugs I have to put into the wheel bolt holes and once the bottom out against the rotor, it pulls the spacer right off.



I did wire wheel the spacers and hub to clean them back up and used some antiseize before reassembly.

I use the same method to pull the hub out of the front bearings. (just make sure to bevel the edge of the bolt so it won't mushroom and make it impossible to remove from the hub after)

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

I use the same method to pull the hub out of the front bearings. (just make sure to bevel the edge of the bolt so it won't mushroom and make it impossible to remove from the hub after)

I was very mindful of that. I just turned each 45mm lug (multi individualized 14mm puller ) 45 degress at a time, constantly monitoring the torque and process. Pulled them right off.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by wpoll

(For comparrison, my wifes's Mazda trans fluid check is one-step - pull the dip stick and look! ).

Awesome.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by Overboost

I was very mindful of that. I just turned each 45mm lug (multi individualized 14mm puller ) 45 degress at a time, constantly monitoring the torque and process.

You had the benefit of having more lugs and maybe 1/10th or 1/20th the force to remove. When I did my first front bearing the bolts mushroomed pretty bad and I had to use angle grinder to cone the ends before I could remove the bolts from the hub. I'm curious how much force it takes to pull the bearing apart. It's not insignificant based on mushriming hardened bolts and bending the hardened steel plates I used between hub and knuckle.

The last one I did I used a slide hammer but I only did that because I was also about to replace the ball joints attached to the knuckle. I don't like to hammer on the knuckle.

Which I don't have a problem with for the rear axle with the caveat of REMOVE the abs sensor. I killed the abs sensor with the slide hammer impacts. It "sorta worked" but threw errors regularly after the bearing job. (to be fair it's also possible the new bearing just didn't pair nice with the old sensor)

[Overboost]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

You had the benefit of having more lugs and maybe 1/10th or 1/20th the force to remove. When I did my first front bearing the bolts mushroomed pretty bad and I had to use angle grinder to cone the ends before I could remove the bolts from the hub. I'm curious how much force it takes to pull the bearing apart. It's not insignificant based on mushriming hardened bolts and bending the hardened steel plates I used between hub and knuckle.

The last one I did I used a slide hammer but I only did that because I was also about to replace the ball joints attached to the knuckle. I don't like to hammer on the knuckle.

Which I don't have a problem with for the rear axle with the caveat of REMOVE the abs sensor. I killed the abs sensor with the slide hammer impacts. It "sorta worked" but threw errors regularly after the bearing job. (to be fair it's also possible the new bearing just didn't pair nice with the old sensor)

When I did my FWB a few weeks ago, I pulled the entire carrier off and planned to press the hub off on my press. It just became too awkward trying to come up with the right press adapters to remove the hub from the bearing/carrier so I put it back on the ground and used a socket with extension and 3 sharp hits on the backside with a 4lb mini sledge and it was off.

[andrewwynn]

That's a tried and true method. Since I have to remove the CV anyhow I may try that in place. if I can figure out a good method to hold the knukle from moving too much (like a 10# sledge) I may try that first. I can skip the slide hammer rental.

Also I'm working on some home brew press ideas to share with xo. I found some plumbing parts that may work for pressing the bearing in/out. I suppose out/in mk ore logical.