What did you do to / for your E53 today??

[sandbagger]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

The problrm isn't that there bolts will come loose, lubricating the thrrads multiplies the effective torque by about 1.33 so torquing to 100 ft·lb lubricated is similar to 133 ft·lb dry. Thus, the proper torque for X5 with lubricated lugs would be about 75 ft·lb. (which would just feel wrong).

I work for a major auto manufacturer and have to have torque testing in our lab for every bolted joint. I have had this talk with the lab in depth but here is the short of it

Let me ask you this, what happens to the wheel bolt and the hub over time? Corrosion.
What condition is the fastener and hub in when it is tested to failure and then the correct torque calculated? NEW and with manufacturing/packaging oils still on them.
So with corrosion on the bolt/hub you are actually torquing to a lower value than what is spec'd as the corrosion is causing a lot more friction than when new.

[andrewwynn]

I'm quite sure the lug tightening torque is engineered to be for "after several cycles".

Since dry torque spec on 14-1.5 is about 150 ft·lb, they aren't anywhere near the yield strength. At 100 ft·lb probably 11-12,000 # per bolt or 55-60,000# of preload on the wheel. They will be quite well attached even if half the spec torque is used.

What I read is that the stretch of the bolt and "nut" changes the load on the threads on subsequent tightening. In one study I read, they tightened dry 1/2-13 bolts to clamping force of 5T. And it took like 90,110,120 ft·lb to achieve the clamping force desired.

They didn't do multiple tightening lubricated but I'd be willing to bet there is less change per cycle.

There is nearly zero corrosion on my 19 year old lugs. Also, with the spinning cones I'm sure that affects the change per cycle in a good way.

Lubricated spec on 14-1.5 is 112 ft·lb equivalent of 149 ft·lb dry. So if tighten to 100 lubricated that's closer to 133 dry and 14500*5=72500 pounds of preload. I wouldn't tighten that tight. (it's still reasonably within spec on the bolt so it's not going to damage the threads).

[Fifty150hs]

Installed new motor mounts, new front flex disk, new poly anti-sway bar bushings, new oil level sensor, oil and filter change and air filter change.

Got the driver's side motor mount out without too much trouble. Had to remove the mounting arm from the passenger side to get that mount out.

New mounts got rid of the vibration, but it didn't get rid of a vibration "noise" that went along with the vibration I was getting. Only when idling when in gear. Going to have to do some more sleuthing with a stethoscope to see if I can pin point what it is. It's starting to drive me crazy. Just glad I got most of it with the new mounts.

[zukgod1]

Originally Posted by Fifty150hs

Installed new motor mounts, new front flex disk, new poly anti-sway bar bushings, new oil level sensor, oil and filter change and air filter change.

Got the driver's side motor mount out without too much trouble. Had to remove the mounting arm from the passenger side to get that mount out.

New mounts got rid of the vibration, but it didn't get rid of a vibration "noise" that went along with the vibration I was getting. Only when idling when in gear. Going to have to do some more sleuthing with a stethoscope to see if I can pin point what it is. It's starting to drive me crazy. Just glad I got most of it with the new mounts.

What vibration are you fighting here?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by zukgod1

What vibration are you fighting here?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

At this point its no longer a vibration. It's the sound/noise of a vibration. It used to coincide with a vibration. Only hear it at idle while in gear. It idles with no excessive vibration or noise while in park or neutral. Strange.

[andrewwynn]

In wife's case it was a stone on the stiffening plate.

I had some nuisance vibration in gear at idle and I used to put my car in neutral to stop it. Now I just set my idle up 30-40 RPM and it idles smooth as a Tesla.

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by Overboost

When I did my FWB a few weeks ago, I pulled the entire carrier off and planned to press the hub off on my press. It just became too awkward trying to come up with the right press adapters to remove the hub from the bearing/carrier so I put it back on the ground and used a socket with extension and 3 sharp hits on the backside with a 4lb mini sledge and it was off.

I was trying to figure out a way to do this from the outside. Think of a couple rods attached to the lug holes, maybe 2' long with a bar between them.

Attach to the lug holes and swing a BFH away from the hub and hit the cross bar.

I think with the wheel turned and maybe 40-60# of tungsten hanging on the carrier to absorb shock I would have enough room to swing a BFH inside and knock that hub right out.

I had considered making a jig that mounts to the brake caliper mounts but it just seems too risky. Maybe if I source a replacement just in case knukle.

[Fifty150hs]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

In wife's case it was a stone on the stiffening plate.

I had some nuisance vibration in gear at idle and I used to put my car in neutral to stop it. Now I just set my idle up 30-40 RPM and it idles smooth as a Tesla.

Nothing on the stiffening plate. Had it off to change the mounts and oil level sensor. It was dirty and oily as hell with bits of plastic and stuff on there, but nothing that would make noise. Completely cleaned the plate off before reinstall. Nothing on the plate. I raised my idle speed already too. It helped make it not as bad, but its still there.

[andrewwynn]

Make an audio recording. Also use this app:

https://apps.apple.com/us/app/vibrat...o/id1089589547

It will isolate the exact frequency of the sound which can help determine the source. It reports the g-force the phone experiences and by moving the phone around to different places you can pinpoint the source.

Last year somebody traced a similar sound to the thrust bushing bolt bring loose and another traced it to the bearing at the top of the strut tower.

[guntherrex]

Originally Posted by Clavurion

If engine mounts are worn the engine can move so much that edges of the fan blades can touch fan shroud. If this happens the blades can snap. All it takes is loosing one blade and the imbalance can destroy the rest.

Ahhh ok, that's a good point. The new radiator is in already, the fan, shroud and viscous clutch are ordered and will be installed soon. I did check the viscous clutch and it was definitely not easy to turn, I drove the car without the fan in place a few times now and with the cold start there's no 'fan trying to lift off' sound any more. So I suspect a failed clutch, but I'll have the mechanic check the motor mounts when he puts the bits in!