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  #1  
Old 02-03-2011, 11:35 AM
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Guys... this is probably way out in left field but, we all know metal shrinks when extremely cold.
It's happened to me and a good half to one full turn took care of it but, the bolts that hold the control arms and thrust arms at the bushings may have some play in them and need tightening??
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  #2  
Old 07-29-2013, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big "J" View Post
Guys... this is probably way out in left field but, we all know metal shrinks when extremely cold.
It's happened to me and a good half to one full turn took care of it but, the bolts that hold the control arms and thrust arms at the bushings may have some play in them and need tightening??
Old thread, but I have to say thanks for the suggestion. I changed out a front suspension strut then had the knocking noise a few days later (could be felt through the floor and steering). I was about to order a new output shaft when your suggestion motivated me to check the torque on the various suspension bolts.. sure enough the top nut on the link rod had worked itself loose. Tightened it up to spec, knock gone.
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  #3  
Old 02-04-2011, 10:09 AM
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I have pulled on the control arms (callout #4 in the 2nd TIS picture per my original post) and cannot get any relative movement. I have inspected the rubber bushing where it mounts to the sub-frame carrier, no cracks. There are no tears in the rubber boot for where it attaches to the swivel bearing (callout #6)

No poping is felt through the steering wheel.

Several people have used the word "control arm". Note this is not item #9, which is the tension strut (or thrust arm). I have already replaced the large press-in bushing for the left and right side tension strut. Its rubber boot is also in good shape, but the ball joint could still be bad.

Considering the clunking can be replicated while the vehicle is not moving, it seems the only parts moving are the three ball joints (control arm, tension strut and steering tie rod) on the swivel bearing, the outboard CV joint, and the strut bearing above the large coil spring.
Big "J" has a valid point that metal shrinks in cold weather... perhaps it is just the wheel bearing is able to slide in the swivel bearing like the SIB mentions? I don't want to replace this bearing, but I can't picture the other items making this sliding metal noise...

I haven't been impressed with my local BMW Dealer's Service Department, but it may be worth the time & $.
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  #4  
Old 02-04-2011, 01:29 PM
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I had this clunk during slow speed turns with bumps.

I replaced the ball joints, control arms and outer tie rods. noise still there

took it to the dealer. they replaced the steering shaft (from steering wheel to steering rack) and noise was gone.


try this..... with engine off and steering wheel unlocked. rock the wheel back and forth and listen.
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  #5  
Old 03-02-2011, 03:28 PM
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Well I did take the X5 to an independent BMW specialty shop. They hadn't heard of a wheel bearing sliding in it's bore, though after they read the SIB everyone agreed it was possible.
The tech went for a test drive, noted how the noise was only during turns, could be felt through the floor board and then put the car on the lift. He checked the bolts for the sub-frame carrier, as he found these loose on a different X5. One sub-frame carrier bolt was 1/4 of a turn loose. He used a pry bar on several of the suspension pieces but nothing moved irregularly.
The X5 was lowered and he pulled on the top of one tire. POP.
He couldn't repeat it, but thought the wheel bearing was a definite possibility.

The X5 went home and continued to clunk. Several weeks later I dropped the splash guard and checked the torque on all the suspension bolts & nuts which were loosened during the CV boot replacement.
Both nuts (L & R side) for the Control Arm (Item #4) connection to the sub-frame carrier were significantly undertorqued at about 75 Nm. Spec is 100 Nm PLUS a 90 degree turn. I guess here is one case "good and tight" is not sufficient. Lesson here is to actually follow the torque in TIS!!

So the award goes to Big "J" for having the best solution.

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  #6  
Old 03-04-2011, 12:45 AM
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Totally makes sense. Those bushings have a splined edge holding them to the mount. I really never assume anyone does not torque to spec. Glad you figured it out.
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  #7  
Old 08-20-2014, 01:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ripp222 View Post
Well I did take the X5 to an independent BMW specialty shop. They hadn't heard of a wheel bearing sliding in it's bore, though after they read the SIB everyone agreed it was possible.
The tech went for a test drive, noted how the noise was only during turns, could be felt through the floor board and then put the car on the lift. He checked the bolts for the sub-frame carrier, as he found these loose on a different X5. One sub-frame carrier bolt was 1/4 of a turn loose. He used a pry bar on several of the suspension pieces but nothing moved irregularly.
The X5 was lowered and he pulled on the top of one tire. POP.
He couldn't repeat it, but thought the wheel bearing was a definite possibility.

The X5 went home and continued to clunk. Several weeks later I dropped the splash guard and checked the torque on all the suspension bolts & nuts which were loosened during the CV boot replacement.
Both nuts (L & R side) for the Control Arm (Item #4) connection to the sub-frame carrier were significantly undertorqued at about 75 Nm. Spec is 100 Nm PLUS a 90 degree turn. I guess here is one case "good and tight" is not sufficient. Lesson here is to actually follow the torque in TIS!!

So the award goes to Big "J" for having the best solution.

Thank you and Big "J". It has been 6 months of crazy troubleshooting... this post made so much sense. Something so simple. I'm happy driving my X5 again. Thanks a lot.
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  #8  
Old 06-22-2011, 11:04 PM
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I'm having the same problem I change the control arm and ball joint but still there was that noise clunking sound. I check under the x again and notice the cv boot outer was rip when i put the x in drive when push the brakes it clunk but only. On the right front where the rip cv boot is located. My question is do I need to change the right front axle. Or please tell me what I need to change to fix this problem I'm 100 % shore it coming from the right front,,,,????? Help please
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  #9  
Old 06-23-2011, 01:57 AM
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A clunking noise that youre hearing when turning the steering wheel to the left or to the right is nothing short of a loose sway bar link. needed tool to tighten bolt is an 18 mm box wrench and a #6 hex bit attach to a 3/8 in. drive ratchet. So, remove a right front wheel and it will expose the sway bar link( easy access ). thank you ....
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  #10  
Old 06-23-2011, 08:31 AM
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I check it not the sway bars or the control arms they are all newly replace, my right front axle as rip on the cv boot when I put the x in drive with foot on breaks I can hear the clunk when I go from N to D I'm shore it the right front axle, what do I need to fix this problem
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