Anyone replaced a ball joint yet? DIY?

[diogenes!]

The rear control arm("wishbone" in the parts catalog) comes with ball joint. The front control arm("tension link" IIRC) is separate from the ball joint. The "wishbones" were about $70 each from the stealership. I imagine the "tension links" are more expensive. BTW, my stlr estimated $750 to replace the rear control arms including the alignment...

I just replaced the rear control arms Friday night. 'bout 2 hours to do both sides. Check the "Front End Shudder" thread.

[01X52Quick]

So if I have a bad ball joint as the dealer says... am I replacing the right part by ordering the "Control Arm Assembly" from Rob?

This last post has me confused...

[diogenes!]

Originally Posted by 01X52Quick

So if I have a bad ball joint as the dealer says... am I replacing the right part by ordering the "Control Arm Assembly" from Rob?

This last post has me confused...

Sorry if I confused you. Check out this diagram that drex linked above. 10 is the control arm(wishbone), 6 is the tension strut and 15 is the ball joint. As you can see in the diagram, the wishbone and its balljoint come as one piece. The ball joint that connects to the tension strut is a separate part that is pressed into the hub carrier(not shown in that diagram).

BTW, what symptoms is you car showing?

[01X52Quick]

It is comments like this one from earlier in the thread...:
The ball joint is made into the control arm, so if you change one you change both


...that makes me think that the control arm and ball joint are part of the same assembly. The diagram would have me to believe otherwise.

If I have a bad ball joint - do I need to replace anything that has to do with the control arm or should I be replacing the tension strut?

My car has the shudder when braking from about 55mph - violent steering wheel shake.

[diogenes!]

Originally Posted by 01X52Quick

It is comments like this one from earlier in the thread...:
The ball joint is made into the control arm, so if you change one you change both

...that makes me think that the control arm and ball joint are part of the same assembly. The diagram would have me to believe otherwise.

Yep - it gets confusing. Everyone is right - there is a ball joint on the control arm and there's another on the bottom of the hub carrier that connects to the tension strut.

If I have a bad ball joint - do I need to replace anything that has to do with the control arm or should I be replacing the tension strut?

My car has the shudder when braking from about 55mph - violent steering wheel shake.

That's the same symptom that I have. Replacing the control arms(wishbones) cleared up about 75% of it. I'm trying the sway bar end links next. After that, I'll try the tension struts. My dealer quoted $750 to replace the control arms - for that, I can replace nearly the entire front suspension except for springs and struts.

Regarding the ball joints - IMO, if you use a "pickle fork" tool to separate the tension strut from the ball joint, then you should replace the ball joint. The pickle fork puts stress on the top of the joint and will often tear the boot. I've got a gear puller that I ground flat on the end that I use to separate tapered ball joint connections. I just put pressure on the tapered joint and rap on the side with a hammer. Just be sure to leave a nut screwed on the joint about even with the end of the threads.

HTH

[fast4d]

according to the diagrams. the ball joint that the tension struts bolts onto is held in with 2 torx bolts. if you're going to remove the tension struts you should replace the joints too.

[flatlander]

I've tried to get the tapered ball joint loose from the steering knuckle and MAN it won't come loose. I've used a "screw type" separator that is pretty stout. But I put so much force into it that I think the tool is going to break, but the ball joint connection won't break free. Any advice?

Originally Posted by diogenes!

Yep - it gets confusing. Everyone is right - there is a ball joint on the control arm and there's another on the bottom of the hub carrier that connects to the tension strut.

That's the same symptom that I have. Replacing the control arms(wishbones) cleared up about 75% of it. I'm trying the sway bar end links next. After that, I'll try the tension struts. My dealer quoted $750 to replace the control arms - for that, I can replace nearly the entire front suspension except for springs and struts.

Regarding the ball joints - IMO, if you use a "pickle fork" tool to separate the tension strut from the ball joint, then you should replace the ball joint. The pickle fork puts stress on the top of the joint and will often tear the boot. I've got a gear puller that I ground flat on the end that I use to separate tapered ball joint connections. I just put pressure on the tapered joint and rap on the side with a hammer. Just be sure to leave a nut screwed on the joint about even with the end of the threads.

HTH

[flyingmachine]

Originally Posted by flatlander

I've tried to get the tapered ball joint loose from the steering knuckle and MAN it won't come loose. I've used a "screw type" separator that is pretty stout. But I put so much force into it that I think the tool is going to break, but the ball joint connection won't break free. Any advice?

which ball joints? lower control arm, tension strut, or tie rod. For tie rod, you can use pitman arm puller. It's a u-shape puller. For tension strut ball joint, you can use slide hammer or you can just unbolt the other side of the tension strut and hammer on the strut to make the ball join come out of steering knuckle. If it's control arm one, BMW tool (similar to the ball joint separator you're using) will make it very easy. But most people just use fork type ball joint separator to hammer it out. Remember to unbolt the other side first. It worked for me too. I also successfully used 2 jaw puller and impact wrench to squeeze the control arm ball joint out. But I would say fork type separator with a 3lb hammer is the easier way.