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#1
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Replacing Door Lock Actuator
The symptoms on our X were, slow/occasionally no locking/unlocking of the pass side door. I noticed that it was always a bit slower than the rest of the doors to lock/unlock, but finally about 3 weeks ago i unlocked the X and the pass front didn't unlock at all. locking and unlocking made it work. Since then 50% of the time it will not lock or unlock with the rest of the doors, a second try always made it work. Tools used: Plastic panel pullers metal panel puller 10mm socket for airbag removal Torx 20 for door panel screws (4) Torx 30 for actuator screws (3) Flat head screwdriver clean rag front passenger actuator 51-21-8-402-540 ![]() Step 1: Remove door panel - Take out window switch. Using a plastic panel puller, pry up from the INSIDE of the switch, basically where it meets the door card. The switch housing will sort of pop up. Then go to the other side of the switch (facing the interior of the X), pry up and lift the whole thing out. Disconnect 3 harnesses. - Take out puddle light. Using a plastic panel puller, pry from the rear of the light (side closest to the rear of the X), disconnect harness. - Remove Torx 20 screw right above the map pocket. - Remove horizontal trim. Using a plastic panel puller, pry up STARTING FROM THE REAR of the trim panel, there are 4 fastening points. - Remove Torx 20 screw that is inside the hole, right behind the interior door handle. - Remove Torx 20 screw that was under the REAR of the trim panel. - Pry from the back side of the Airbag grommet, pull out the piece and remove the Torx 20 screw behind that. Your door should now look like this: ![]() Step 2: Remove door card - I grab where the puddle light was with my left hand and into the window switch hole with my right. Give a real good firm tug and you should release at least some clips front-bottom of the door, using a plastic puller (or just your hands if you can get them around) release the remaining clips all around the door. The top most part is held on with metal clips (which you cannot see), so just get the panel to the point where it's only fastened on by the top clips. - To release the door card from the top metal clips you actually pull straight out from the door, not up. The lock pop-up will bend around it, do not worry. However, be careful as the door handle LED, and the interior door release carrier will still be attached to the panel and there's not too much slack. - Once the panel is off of the clips, remove the LED from the retaining socket (just push on the two side clips it will slide right out) - Release the interior door release carrier by feeling for the tab on the REAR side (back of the carrier) and pulling it back. The carrier will sort of swing out of the socket. Keep in mind this motion...installation of the carrier is reverse, insert front end, then snap in the back. - Use the 10mm socket, remove the 3 bolts holding the airbag onto the door frame. DO NOT UNPLUG IT otherwise you will throw a code. If you want to unplug the airbag, you will first need to disconnect the battery (and then wait at least 30 minutes). As you see, I used some string to tie it out of the way. Your door should now look like this: ![]() Step 3: Gain access to the actuator and remove it - Carefully carefully carefully peel back the insulation starting at the top left where the interior carrier/bowden cable passes through. Slowly peel around the top and down the right side until you have exposed the area where the airbag once resided. You should pretty much have a perfect view in and see portions of the actuator already. - If all you are doing is replacing the actuator like we did, the only things you must unhook are the wiring harness for lock control, which is situated on the bottom of the actuator which you cannot actually see; and the exterior door handle bowden cable and ball joint. - I did the wiring harness first. Follow the interior bowden cable down to the actuator, feel past it where the wires are, pinch the sides of the harness and pull it out. - Release the exterior bowden cable ball joint. I used my metal panel puller and a soft towel so I wouldn't scratch anything, got it all set up in there and pried it off, didn't require much force at all. - Release the exterior bowden cable guide. It's the white thing right above the ball joint. Mine was stuck in there good, so I ended up using some string, wrapped it around the white collar at the top, pulled straight forward (towards the front of the X) and it popped out. you might be able to get the idea from this pic, the exterior ball joint and bowden cable guide are in the back of the pic, slightly out of focus: ![]() Step 4: Remove the actuator - Using a Torx 30 and a bit attachment, undo the 3 bolts holding it to the door frame (remember to have a hand inside holding it when you release the last, otherwise it'll fall to the inside of the door!) - When released, drop the actuator straight down so the lock indicator clears the foam, then slowly work the whole thing out of the hole. You'll basically be taking out the actuator, the lock indicator stalk and the interior bowden cable/carrier out in one bit. Here's the old carrier right after it was removed from the door, you transfer the lock indicator stalk and interior bowden cable/carrier to the new one. The interior bowden cable guide has a tab you need to release on the back side. While that stuff is out, PLEASE look over the condition of the cable/carrier. If it's chipping or cracking replace it. not being able to open the door from the inside or the outside would suck. ![]() Step 5: Re-assemble - Guide your new actuator, lock indicator, interior bowden cable/carrier into the door frame. Line up the bolt holes and make sure the wiring harness and the exterior bowden cable/ball joint are not pinched. Tighten up the 3 bolts. - Snap in the white exterior bowden cable guide, might be a bit of a pain, just give it some muscle. - Pop on the ball joint. - Plug in the harness. - Re-position the insulation, the adhesive should still be sticky enough to hold it in place, bolt the airbag back where it was. Put the LED and interior bowden cable carrier back into the door panel. Fasten the TOP of the door card first, line it up and pop them back in, once the top is in pull out the 3 windows switch harnesses, and the puddle light harness back through the proper holes. Hit all around the door card to snap in the rest of the body clips. Put the 4 Torx 20 screws back in, plug up the window switch and the puddle lamp, snap on the upper trim piece (remember when installing, hook the tabs at the front of the trim piece in first, then pop the piece in going backwards) and push the Airbag grommet back in place. Test locking/unlocking, test opening door from outside and inside, make sure LED light/window/mirror still work. - Enjoy!
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| E30 M3 | E34 M5 | E91 328xi | E53 X5 4.6is | E38 740i M-Sport | Last edited by duboy; 02-24-2012 at 12:53 AM. Reason: fixed pics |
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#2
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Thats pretty much how I did mine, except I didn't have those fancy panel pullers!
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#3
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yeah, i did a lot of panel pulling when i didn't have them and i always got the job done. One day i knicked the door card of one of the e30s and that afternoon I ordered a 4-pc set...been loving it ever since. Can get so much use out of them.
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| E30 M3 | E34 M5 | E91 328xi | E53 X5 4.6is | E38 740i M-Sport | |
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#4
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so its the actuator that causes this problem?my rear passenger won't unlock electronically, only manually from the inside.my front passenger side door won't open from the outside.seems similar to the frozen door lock in reverse which is weird becauses its been 90 degrees for a while.anyway the door will lock and unlock fine but just wont open when u use the handle.sounds more like a mechanical then an electrical to me but in a bmw you never know.
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#5
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Quote:
http://www.xoutpost.com/articles/x5/...andle-fix.html
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2007 X3 3.0si, 6 MT, Premium, White Retired: 2008 535i, 6 MT, M Sport, Premium, Space Grey 2003 X5 3.0 Steptronic, Premium, Titanium Silver 2002 325xi 5 MT, Steel Grey 2004 Z4 3.0 Premium, Sport, SMG, Maldives Blue |
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#6
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Hello , Great write up and very useful pictures.
In my case is front passenger door and Mine is little bit different,,, I my case besides unlocking and locking not working... window would not respond. I can't open it either from main driver console or actual passenger door. I can manually unlock the door but I cant control the window,, Anyone experienced this ?! |
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#7
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Quote:
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| E30 M3 | E34 M5 | E91 328xi | E53 X5 4.6is | E38 740i M-Sport | |
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#8
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Quote:
My mechanic replaced the window regulator because he was told and it is responsible for all electrical on that side, not luck so far. I called the dealer , they said it might me a footwell something. Well anyways, keep me posted please |
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#9
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Quote:
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| E30 M3 | E34 M5 | E91 328xi | E53 X5 4.6is | E38 740i M-Sport | |
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#10
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Yes ,,, everything was done right in the front of me,
Mechanic supposed it was the problem with RIGHT CONTROL SWITCH (he was told, since window, lock VIA unlock, side mirror and folding wasnt working) and he ordered it and he replaced that big box from front passeger door with the new one, But still no luck.. I am gonna make a video tonight and uploud it to youtube to have better idea... Thanks for quick response... Glad your problem is solved |
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