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  #11  
Old 06-22-2011, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roadriderg View Post
Not sure if it is or not. After I charged mine overnight it would still start but the voltage on the battery was about 10 1/2 volts.

Snce our cars are computer driven with sensors sensitive to voltage this could easily wack out a system.

Try checking your voltage before you start should be 12 1/2 to 13.25 volts. Then check when your engine is running and it should be approx 14 1/2 volts (alternator charging). Or charge your battery and take it to get tested.

I never noticed if the park light is on in position "2" I will check that later.

Gary
I checked the voltage on the front posts and it was 12.0 when starting and even up to 14 with jumper cables on it. The car wouldn't turn over or try to. Please let me know what it says when its in position 2. I had a computer on it and it said the transmission range sensor was not showing any reading. It couldn't tell if its in park or not. Despite divulging this info people still say alternator that's why I'm hesitant to just by parts.
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  #12  
Old 06-22-2011, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Piston View Post
When you put your key into position 2 right before the start position does your car show that the car is in Park? Cause mine doesn't know if the shifter is in park or neutral or any gear for that matter. It does recognize that i put it in sport mode though as the indicator light on the console reflects that change.

.

I checked my gearshift indicator with the switch in the second position,engine off and thel park light is on and if I move the shifter the corresponding light will come on in selected gear even the sport mode. You may have a defective gear indicator so it does not know you are in park or neutral to start the car. Just a guess.

Gary
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  #13  
Old 06-23-2011, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by roadriderg View Post
I checked my gearshift indicator with the switch in the second position,engine off and thel park light is on and if I move the shifter the corresponding light will come on in selected gear even the sport mode. You may have a defective gear indicator so it does not know you are in park or neutral to start the car. Just a guess.

Gary

That's what i was thinking it was but people have directed me towards the alternator. That part is $150 ish plus requires the trans pan to be dropped vs. alternator which I haven't priced out. The diagnostic computer was showing that sensor wasn't sending any info while all other sensors were working fine. I thought it was possible that it was getting incorrect readings because of this voltage problem. Will keep you updated and TY for this information as it has helped me a ton.

The defective gear indicator is showing as trans range sensor error on the diagnostic computer that was used.
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  #14  
Old 06-23-2011, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Piston View Post
That's what i was thinking it was but people have directed me towards the alternator. That part is $150 ish plus requires the trans pan to be dropped vs. alternator which I haven't priced out. The diagnostic computer was showing that sensor wasn't sending any info while all other sensors were working fine. I thought it was possible that it was getting incorrect readings because of this voltage problem. Will keep you updated and TY for this information as it has helped me a ton.

The defective gear indicator is showing as trans range sensor error on the diagnostic computer that was used.
My humble vote is on the trans range sensor. If your car is not starting And you are getting a failed gearshift sensor. It would sound like the computer is not getting a indication that you are in park or neutral thus not allowing your starter to go. I know the alternator is a bitch to install and carries a heavy part price from bmw. Also a bad alternator would not block the starter from starting the car, providing you have a fully charged battery.

Gary
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  #15  
Old 06-24-2011, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by roadriderg View Post
My humble vote is on the trans range sensor. If your car is not starting And you are getting a failed gearshift sensor. It would sound like the computer is not getting a indication that you are in park or neutral thus not allowing your starter to go. I know the alternator is a bitch to install and carries a heavy part price from bmw. Also a bad alternator would not block the starter from starting the car, providing you have a fully charged battery.

Gary

Thanks Gary getting it diagnosed on monday.
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  #16  
Old 06-27-2011, 07:29 PM
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Well, i may need an EGS sensor. This car is starting to be a money pit. I hear my uncle reminding me now all the problems or lack of problems he has with his MDX.
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  #17  
Old 06-27-2011, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Piston View Post
Well, i may need an EGS sensor. This car is starting to be a money pit. I hear my uncle reminding me now all the problems or lack of problems he has with his MDX.
That of course sounds expensive!!!

Love the "I told you so".
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  #18  
Old 06-28-2011, 11:46 AM
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"I told you so..." Yah that may come about. So i got electrical gremlins galore apparently.

I'm going to vent and list other issues (maybe it will make me feel better):

I've had a flaky alarm system that would go off on its own here and there. I wouldn't even arm it as lately, as itwas certain to go off at some point in the night.

The instrument cluster is reading 21Volts (not to mention tons of missing pixels).
Trans control unit is not sending the proper signals.
Ignition switch is working.
Alarm system see's igntion switch in postion #2 other computer systems see it in #1. (Maybe that's the other way around).

Regardless this MasterTech that has his own shop is deferring the problem to the dealer where he has 2 other MT buddies to look at the car. He told me he doesn't want to start putting Control Units in it and watching them blow cause he doesn't have the capital to do that. Makes sense. Car is on its way to the dealer. Perhaps this may be the last BMW i own. I'm discouraged. I understand its an 2002 and its showing its age. I guess when you pay near $60k for a car you want it to last. Ok done venting.
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  #19  
Old 06-30-2011, 03:30 PM
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Good News... i suppose this ordeal ended costing me almost $1k.

$450 for replacement of the Tran Sensor.
$300 for 2 hours of dealer diagnostic and reprograming of my Instrument cluster plus EGS.
Best part is that no electronics were fried, they were all looped though.

Car is running, from what I'm told. YAY. I won't believe it till i drive it for the next year or so.
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  #20  
Old 06-30-2011, 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Piston View Post
Good News... i suppose this ordeal ended costing me almost $1k.

$450 for replacement of the Tran Sensor.
$300 for 2 hours of dealer diagnostic and reprograming of my Instrument cluster plus EGS.
Best part is that no electronics were fried, they were all looped though.

Car is running, from what I'm told. YAY. I won't believe it till i drive it for the next year or so.
Good news for the fix! And only costing $1,000.00 dollars I quess that is about right for a dealer action. Could have been much worse.

Gary
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