4.8is Ride Height Calibration

[tmv]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

I got you man, I just have to measure each corner and add the appropriate amount of mm to make it sit level, I will do another recalibration today. I definitely want the 4 corners to be even (rear should sit about 3mm higher anyway), I'm down to about 710mm now, on my lowest corner yesterday before I started lowering I was at 736mm.


My garage is level so it shouldn't be a problem, I will measure again today and try again to fine tune it. I'm sure I will get it right it just takes some tweaking, and there was rain on the way yesterday so I couldn't finish in my friends driveway.

To bring it down to standard height, you DON'T add or subtract anything from the actual measurement. The car will adjust itself to make it 707/709 standard height. You only add/subtract from the 707/709 number when you want to fool the computer into lowering or raising the car from the standard point.
Take your lowest corner for example: if you want to bring that down to standard height, you would enter exactly 710mm to the appropriate corner when ask by DIS. The computer will adjust itself (lower in this case) to be 707 or 709 (front or rear).
Take another example: let say your lowest corner is 705mm. When you enter this exact amount into DIS, it will raise that corner to 707 or 709 automatically. You don't add or subtract anything from the actual measurement of 705mm (I know you're thinking about that 2mm or 4mm, don't you?) if you ONLY want to bring it to the correct standard height.

In other word, forget that you ever know 707/709 is the standard number. That has nothing to do with calibrating your ride height to standard. All you need is the actual measurement that you made on each corner. You only need that number when you decide it's time to fool the computer.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by tmv

To bring it down to standard height, you DON'T add or subtract anything from the actual measurement. The car will adjust itself to make it 707/709 standard height. You only add/subtract from the 707/709 number when you want to fool the computer into lowering or raising the car from the standard point.
Take your lowest corner for example: if you want to bring that down to standard height, you would enter exactly 710mm to the appropriate corner when ask by DIS. The computer will adjust itself (lower in this case) to be 707 or 709 (front or rear).
Take another example: let say your lowest corner is 705mm. When you enter this exact amount into DIS, it will raise that corner to 707 or 709 automatically. You don't add or subtract anything from 705mm if you ONLY want to bring it to the correct standard height.

Thanks tmv, you have the most recent success with this and are most familiar so I will try your methods later on. What I want to do is get my car to sit at an even baseline, so I have the exact 707/709mm on each corner (or at least close within a few mm's), then set it to default, and then I can evaluate further lowering from there (by adding mm's to the calibration in the original DIY)


So I take my EXACT amount that I have now on each corner, plug that into the calibration when asked on each corner, and the suspension should "correct itself" to the 707 and 709 values?

So in theory, with your corner that was 1" higher than the rest, if you were just calibrating to even out that corner and have the default heights all around, you would put in a value of 709 + 25mm = 734mm when asked since that is what you measured, and the suspension would level down to a value of 709mm since it is correcting for it? Am I understanding correctly?

[tmv]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Thanks tmv, you have the most recent success with this and are most familiar so I will try your methods later on. What I want to do is get my car to sit at an even baseline, so I have the exact 707/709mm on each corner (or at least close within a few mm's), then set it to default, and then I can evaluate further lowering from there (by adding mm's to the calibration in the original DIY)

So I take my EXACT amount that I have now on each corner, plug that into the calibration when asked on each corner, and the suspension should "correct itself" to the 707 and 709 values? YES

So in theory, with your corner that was 1" higher than the rest, if you were just calibrating to even out that corner and have the default heights all around, you would put in a value of 709 + 25mm = 734mm when asked since that is what you measured, and the suspension would level down to a value of 709mm since it is correcting for it? Am I understanding correctly?

In my case with the higher corner (1"): If I ONLY want to bring it down to standard point, I would enter the exact measurement that I made with the tape measure, which is ~734mm. YES, you understand it correctly.

[BigBlack48is]

You also want to be sure to add your 450lbs within the passenger compartment as instructed by the hunter alignment machine. I am using retaining wall bricks from my landscaping

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by BigBlack48is

You also want to be sure to add your 450lbs within the passenger compartment as instructed by the hunter alignment machine. I am using retaining wall bricks from my landscaping

Yeah I know about the sandbag method for alignment but not sure if that's also necessary for setting default ride height? DIS does not mention to weigh the car down although they do mention a level surface. I have almost full tank of gas in the car and all tires are at 33 psi so I am good to go with that.

[BigBlack48is]

According to the hunter alignment machine you are supposed to set ride height w/ full tank of gas and 450lbs in the passenger compartment + 50lbs in the trunk.

I would assume it's trying to help you from having your 20's rub on the fender well's while running from the cops...

I'm no expert tho

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by BigBlack48is

According to the hunter alignment machine you are supposed to set ride height w/ full tank of gas and 450lbs in the passenger compartment + 50lbs in the trunk.

I would assume it's trying to help you from having your 20's rub on the fender well's while running from the cops...

I'm no expert tho

while running from the cops after robbing Fort Knox of all the gold (500 lbs) in your trunk? lmfao!

[sockethead]

Last time I calibrated, it took 5 passes of calibration get it where it should be. Each pass got it a little closer. Who knows why it behaves like this. The dealership had the same problem so I know it's not me...

[Ricky Bobby]

Side note: Wouldn't it be so much easier if we had tape measures that were mm/cm only? I measure and then I have to google the conversion lol!

OK tmv, I will do your method tonight and see what I come up with as far as the default height goes to after the calibration. At least I know how to even out the corners (drives my OCD crazy!).

So even though I set a different zero point last night the computer will still remember the default values when I go to to a ride height calibration and set it accordingly? I didn't mess anything up?

[Clockwork]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

Side note: Wouldn't it be so much easier if we had tape measures that were mm/cm only? I measure and then I have to google the conversion lol!

HAHAH RB I'll send you one hahahahaha