How to tell Your Sway Bar/Swing Arm End Links Are Bad

[hunds02]

Update - I received another Meyle HD Sway Bar Link kit and this time they were in separate boxes which indicates the part number. I did one side at a time to avoid accidentally mixing them up. Each sway bar link had a colored dot on one ball joint, I guess this is how they indicate which end gets installed on the strut and sway bar. The side that had a colored dot marked with a sharpie was installed on the top end (strut). If you tried installing the other way, you could technically get it to fit if you manipulate the ball joint to get the right angle (I highly recommend not manipulating or move the ball joint during install to know the correct orientation).

Also per the Bentley manual both sides must be torqued under load. I used rhino ramps and it was a bit of a challenge to get a torque wrench on the upper ball joint. It helps if you have a box gear wrench on one end and a flat bike wrench on the other. I got it very snug that way then finished with the torque wrench. The brake lines will be in the way so I removed them from the grommet to prevent accidentally kinking the cable.

Car is on the ground now and drives very well. Can't say if the improvement is from the sway bar links as I also replaced the CV joints, thrust arms, and thrust arm ball joints.

[TiminIndy]

I think I am going to have my sway bar end links replaced soon. I have been hearing the little clunk like many have described, mostly with slight turns while going over uneven surfaces (backing out of the driveway). I also feel some vibration when braking around 50 mph - not so much in the steering wheel, but I feel it on the pedal.

I think I am going to go with the Lemfoerder end links, for $22 each on FCP. I am debating on whether I should do the control arms (wishbones) at the same time. Last year, I replaced the big control arms (tension struts) due to clunk on sharp turns.

Questions:

1) Would the time/labor be less to do both pairs at the same time, as opposed to doing them separately?

2) Will an alignment be needed when replacing either of these, or both?

3) If I do the wishbones, do I need to order parts 11, 12, & 13 at the same time?



https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...r-31126760275l



10 Wishbone, left
1

31126760275 $269.13


Required for repair

10 Wishbone, right
1

31126760276 $269.13


Required for repair

-- Collar screw M12X1,5X80 ZNS3 1

31303450534 $1.72

-- Self-locking collar nut M12X1,5-10 ZNS3 1

33326760668 $0.62

-- SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT M14X1,5 05 ZNS3 1

31106769443 $1.35

11 STEEL RUBBER MOUNTING
2

31121124622 $30.37

12 Collar screw M12X1,5X80 ZNS3 2

31303450534 $1.72

13 Self-locking collar nut M12X1,5-10 ZNS3 2

33326760668 $0.62

14 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT M14X1,5 05 ZNS3 4

31106769443 $1.35

[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by TiminIndy

I think I am going to have my sway bar end links replaced soon.
Questions:

1) Would the time/labor be less to do both pairs at the same time, as opposed to doing them separately?

2) Will an alignment be needed when replacing either of these, or both?

The sway bar links are an easy DIY job. There is no effect on alignment from these links; the whole reason for the link is to disconnect the moving aligned suspension from the sway bar.

Replacing the lower control arms however does require alignment.

symptoms: if you feel shaking in the pedal or especially the wheel during a moderate brake from 40-50mph, OR a shake in the wheel during a freeway speed lane-change, that is almost certainly control arms.

if you hear 'clunk' frequently while driving over mostly smooth surface, but over minor road level changes like concrete seams, that is for sure the sway bar links.

I changed my wife's SBL in about an hour. I lifted both sides off the ground at the same time so i could easily access everything, including turning the wheel left to right. I had my son use a 2x2 as a pry-bar to help push the sway bar up a smidgen to get it to fit on, also the replacements had a different style of 'flat' on the ball side of the threaded rod, which i could fold the rubber boot out of the way to get a normal wrench on which was nice.

trick; you can 100% verify if the SBL are shot with some electrical tape; I wrapped about 10 wraps of tape around the top and bottom of both SBL and the clunking was entirely eliminated; it gave me a week of peace while the parts were in the mail. I used some very low-cost parts considering the ease of replacing and that they don't influence the alignment.

If you can twist the SBL left and right by hand, they are likely shot, but the c-c-c—clunk that is at every tiny little road imperfection will be the solid evidence (other than the electrical tape test above)