Replacement air filter for a 3.0 Diesel

[fatboyoz]

Originally Posted by staffop

I've read through the threads about replacement air filters for the petrol variants of the X5 but there doesn't seem to be anything about replacing the filter on a 3.0D.
This is a long conical filter as opposed to a panel type and from what I've heard its a b*tch to replace.
Anyone done it to their X5 diesel, was it worth it?, any economy/performance gains etc?
Specifically I'm thinking about a K&N but I've heard these can knacker the MAF if over oiled so I'll have to proceed with caution.

This is how I did it on my 2005 Diesel Sport 6 Speed Manual.
Pull out 4 plastic rivets that hold cold air intake in place by pulling centre of rivets up with long nosed pliers. Remove intake and ducting by releasing clip on lower end of duct.
Undo 5 allen headed screws on acoustic lining. Lift front of acoustic panel and pull forward. Lift panel away.
Unfasten 3 screws from filter inlet housing (where ducting attaches) and remove.
Undo scews from filter cover (Not sure how many, 4,5 or 6), back two are very awkward to get to. As I recall, these screws are captive, and do not completely detach from the panel (so you can't drop them).
I think, at this stage, you have to remove the oil filler cap. Put it back on ASAP so that nothing falls in.
You then have to manouver the cover and filter out together, as there is not enough room to remove the cover with the filter in place.
When fitting the new filter, you will have to manouver the filter and cover back on together for the same reason.
Be careful, when pushing filter into place, that the seal on the open end of the filter is not bent over and caught inside, instead of outside, of the receptacle, it can be done, and your engine will not run properly. If you have it fitted correctly, the rear end of the filter should drop neatly into a small cut-out.
Manouver cover back into place, making sure that you run you left hand down past the washer water container to the very back of the engine to ensure the cover is fitting neatly. You will have to do this anyway to get to the very back screw to get it to restart in its hole.
Continue in reverse order and good luck.
Regards Colin.

[blueagle]

Ed,

How about posting some pics of your new mods ?

[omodos]

No idea how concise this is but found it on another site, a few pics and this would have been perfect


Completed this at the first attempt tonight. Do it better than the dealer, - who can't be bothered doing it properly, as you'll never know - or so they think.

It's pretty easy, but very time consuming, for what should be a 10 minute swap.

NTS = NO TOOL REQUIRED

before you start, you WILL NEED:

1) to be tall
2) to have a magnetic nut/bolt tray
3) to have a small socket set (mine's a Teng one)
4) Patience, and the ability to think logically.

The air filter's to the left of the oil filler cap, beneath that black plastic cover. Most of the disassembly and reassembly of the car is to allow access to the nuts and bolts at the rear of that cover.

PUT YOUR MAGNETIC TOOL / NUT TRAY ON THE FRONT R/H HEADLIGHT, AND OFF WE GO.

First task - to remove the pollen filter housing.

a)Remove the rubber trim from the bulkhead area surrounding the pollen filter holder. Front and back. NTR
b)Remove the plastic mesh that's held on with 5 x turn screws, again surrounding the pollen filter (about 3 feet long) NTR
c) Remove the plastic ducting on the left and right of the pollen filter housing (about as big as your hand). They just clip out. NTR
d)Undo the 2 x 13mm steel nuts in front of the bulkhead on the left and right. (one is directly behind the washer bottle)
e)Slide out the pollen filter assembly complete. (it's big and heavy) and lay on the floor. NTR

Now you can see the entire top of the engine.
Next is to remove a bit more of the LHS plastic area around the wiper motor to allow more access.

f)Climb on top of the engine, and remove the bottom wiper motor nut, and 2 x 10mm(ish) bolts from under it. There's one more, on top, near the bottom wiper motor nut.
g) Bend, and force this piece of plastic out of the way, as you need to to gain access to the hex nuts on the air filter cover. NTR
h)Remove the flexi ducting from between the front of the air filter cover and the radiator cowl. (about 3" diameter) NTR
i) Undo the 5 (yes 5) hex nuts from the air filter cover. The rear LHS one will mean YOU being ON the engine again. The hex nuts can't be lost, as they're attached to the cover.
j) Remove the oil filler cap, and lift off the air filter cover. NTR
K) Replace the air filter, and reassemble in the reverse order. NTR

When re-installing i) above, start with the 2 hex nuts on the left, as they are awkward to do otherwise.

I read elsewhere that it's easier to do this with the washer bottle removed. After doing this, I don't think so really.

Target time - 50 minutes.
Print this out, and be methodical.

Tim.

[toadhall1248]

Hi
To all the 3.0d owners, here is a link to another site with pictures of how to replace the air filter.
xdrivers.co.uk • View topic - changing air filter E53 30d

I can't believe BMW are dumb enough to make it his hard. According to other posts it is common practice for the dealers to charge for air filter replacement but not actually do it.

Another reason why I do my own maintenance. Only way to know for sure what oil goes in and what really gets replaced.