X5 Rear Fog Lights .... NOT .... BUT Rear Parking/Brake Lights .... YES!

[withidl]

Basis several posts regarding installation of rear fog lights I researched installation on my 2001 April build. Bottom line is that the LCM (lighting control module) ROM (read only memory) on pre September 2001 builds is not programmed to recognize the rear fogs. My dealer, who worked with me on this project at no $$$, displayed my LCM rear fogs functionality on their computer BUT the items were “grayed” and “faulted” on the display which meant that the LCM did not have the software to fully recognize them. The dealer discussed the software issue with their BMW Technical Service Rep who advised that the European X5’s LCMs, although the exact same part number, have different software in their ROM which BMW would not provide to my dealer (and it may not work with the American circuitry). Post September 2001 builds, although not wired from the switch to the LCM, nor wired from the trailer module to the rear fogs, do have their LCMs programmed to recognize the rear fogs as per “Jeff’s” pervious posts (on Bimmer.org).

So, I gave up on the rear fogs but decided to “convert” them into additional parking / brake lights basis other posts I have read, and this succeeded VERY WELL INDEED! I no longer have “dead lenses” to go along with my “dead pedal”.

The following is what I did, “by the numbers”, which may be helpful for any who wish to duplicate my effort:

NOTE: On vehicles with the “adaptive” brake lighting this may not work as it might confuse the LCM.

1. Less than $20 was spent do accomplish this.

2. First purchase 2 each of the same sockets and bulbs used for the backup lights from your dealer (sockets cost me $4.42 each, bulbs $2.47 each, times 2 + tax = $14.88). Then purchase about 10 feet of 18 gage wire (color to suit you fancy, mine was white and I already had it on hand, but wire is cheap).

3. Now remove from the lower tailgate black plastic end cap the red reflector strips (screw driver under the large end unclips them) and the little square black plastic plugs (they unsnap) to expose the screws that allow for the removal of this end cap. Unscrew these screws and slip the end cap off.

4. Next remove the center plastic by prying up along the end closest to you. It unsnaps at 4 equal distance places along the edge and then lifts up. Pull it toward you and its out.

5. Now all of the screws that hold down the remaining black plastic perimeter can be removed so that it and the foam underneath it can be removed to expose the wiring and back of the lenses.

6. In the back of the rear fog lenses you’ll have to remove the 2 cast red plastic “plugs” so that the sockets and bulbs can be inserted. The plugs are held in place by 3 thin pieces of plastic which an Exacto knife can cut out. Be careful not to loose the pieces into the lens and make sure ALL of the plastic is cut away or it can interfere with the socket connectivity as it initially did with mine by not allowing for full contact for current flow.

7. Now install the sockets with bulbs (about a 1/8th twist locks them into place).

8. The dealer should be able to provide you with 2 each female “pins” for the 2 connectors at the backup light / rear fog light lens (mine did at no charge).

9. Unplug the wiring connector, remove the white cover (side prongs “alternately” unclip and it lifts off), determine which way is “up” and insert the female “pin” into the 3rd and only vacant slot (they should click into place when fully seated). Replace the white cover and reconnect the connector. Run the “pig tail” along with the other wires as far as it will go (mine were about 18” long).

10. Now remove the 3 Torx screws in the silver colored center mounting for the tailgate release motor (but don’t remove the Torx screws that hold the motor), unsnap the closest left and right release motor cable attachments and the mounting will lift out exposing all of the tailgate wiring.

11. Cut the approximate 10’ of 18 gage wire in half. Remove the rubber “boot” wiring conduit between the tailgate and the body by peeling it out of the sheet metal (it pushes back into place readily). Lift the cover over the spare tire and then run a small wire through the rubber conduit. Tape the two 18 gage wires side by side to that wire and push/pull them through into the spare tire compartment (remember which is the left side and which is the right side). “Butt” connect the wires to the left and right “pig tails”.

12. In the spare tire compartment where the 18 gage wire was pulled through you’ll see several large wiring harnesses running along the rear of the compartment. Run the 18 gage wire along with the harnesses (use nylon “ties” to secure) until you get to the tail light lenses on the left and right sides. I removed the black plastic “moldings” which the spare tire cover/floor attaches to so that I could better access the wiring harnesses. The “moldings” are held down by 10mm plastic nuts, 3 on the left side and 2 on the right side (a long socket extension is required to access a couple of the nuts).

13. At the inside of the parking / brake light lenses unplug the connector. As a point of reference you’ll see a brown wire on both the left and right connectors (ground). The wire on the left connector which is furthest from the brown wire should be black with a BROWN tracer (stripe); this is the left parking / brake light wire. The wire on the right connector which is furthest from the brown wire should be black with a DARK BLUE tracer (stripe); this is the right parking / brake light wire. Remove the white plastic cover (side prongs “alternately” unclip and it lifts off). Using a pointed instrument (I used the tip of a compass) carefully press down on the very small raised tab on the end of the brake / parking female “pin” while pulling it back, it will slip back a little and re-catch on the connector and you will again have to carefully press down on the tab to pull it free of the connector.

14. Now, after you have routed your 18 gage wire to the parking / brake light connector, you’ll solder the 18 gage wire to the female “pins” you’ve removed. Strip a small amount of insulation (1/8" to 3/16") from your 18 gage wire end and position it onto the “neck” of the “pin” such that the insulation of your wire and the insulation of the “pin’s” wire are aligned. The bare end of your wire should be over the crimped end of the “pin” BUT NOT INTO THE “PIN” ITSELF. I used aluminum metal duct tape to hold the two wires together while I soldered them since the aluminum tape would not melt from the solder’s heat.

15. CAREFULLY solder your wire to the crimped area of the “pin”. If you get too much solder on it carefully file off the excess since it must be at a minimum to allow for re-insertion into the connector.

16. Remove the aluminum tape, re-insert the “pin” into the connector, re-attach the connector cover and re-connect it to the parking / brake light.

17. Turn on your lights and confirm they are working.

18. If all is well secure everything with nylon ties and put everything back together (you did leave bread crumbs behind ........ didn’t you?).

The rear parking / brake lights use a single filament. For parking brightness the LCM passes an approximate 3.5 volts to the filament. When the brake is depressed the LCM passes the full 12 volts to the filament increasing brightness three fold. The rear fog, now parking / brake lights will operate in unison with the regular parking / brake lights.

[motordavid]

David: Glad to see you waddled over here and posted!
Helluva info post, though I may pass and jes'keep
Zainoing, lol!
BR,David

[UCrewX5]

Very nice post. I turned this into an article and placed a link to it in the LIGHTS section on the main page

http://www.xoutpost.com/articles.php?...icle&artid=173

[TripleX5]

Great write-up.

Did the same mod awhile back on me ol'X.
Sure makes a hellava difference.

[motordavid]

XXX5: Wow! That does look titz and really makes a diff.
I've always wondered why the tail/turn sig lights were
so meager on Xs and other euro based cars. Very fine,Ed.
BR,D

[Curious Joel]

Does BMW actually have a good reason for not putting the rear fogs on their cars here? Our Audis and Volvo all have them. Why not BMW?

[UCrewX5]

Originally Posted by Curious Joel

Does BMW actually have a good reason for not putting the rear fogs on their cars here? Our Audis and Volvo all have them. Why not BMW?

They do put them on Euro-spec X5's, but not those destined for North America. Not sure if it's a DOT thing, or some other reason

[withidl]

It seems like I read that California has some law that forbids rear fogs due to their glare causing problems for vehicles behind them, WHICH IS EXACTLY WHAT YOU WANT when visibility is compromised (logic doesn't apply here).

It may be that California wants to preclude any possibility of their use in clear weather where glare could be problematic, but if thats the case then maby they need to forbid high beam head lights for the same reason.

I was reading an internet article which stated that when Germany mandated rear fogs it essentially cut in half the rear end collisions in low visibility situations, but I guess California fog is different than German fog.

BMW probably just negates on all US models to assure compliance.

[motordavid]

Originally Posted by Curious Joel

Does BMW actually have a good reason for not putting the rear fogs on their cars here? Our Audis and Volvo all have them. Why not BMW?

One of my four bro'n-laws has an MB, with the single rear fog. It looks to the avg driver like one brake light is stuck on...
effective for getting attention and visibility, though.

[Curious Joel]

Originally Posted by motordavid

One of my four bro'n-laws has an MB, with the single rear fog. It looks to the avg driver like one brake light is stuck on...
effective for getting attention and visibility, though.

That's what it looks like on our carsm one brake light. My brother once was stopped when he had his on and the cop tried to give him a fine for having one brake light out.