Brake noise (squeak) at very low speed

[JCL]

OE will be quietest, and are of high quality. That is OE, not OEM, which gets confused as OE sometimes. There are many different pad compositions, and one manufacturer can make several different pads, so the safest is to use OE.

OE means in a BMW box, where ever you buy it from. (Unless it is a counterfeit part, which can happen, if you are dealing with smaller or unknown vendors)
OEM means from a supplier that also makes parts for BMW, but the ones you buy are not necessarily the same as the ones in the BMW box. Good examples are filters and oil.
Aftermarket means that it is designed to fit physically, and the performance characters may be similar, or not at all similar.

Only downside to OE is the dust.

If they were sold as being a match to your vehicle, odds are the only thing that matches is the physical size. Very unlikely that they are the OE pad compound.

There are some good aftermarket pads, and some OK aftermarket pads, and some bad ones, simply because they are primarily sold based on a price point.

When you say 'seller' I think of ebay and similar sites, which are full of junk parts.

[scchang]

Quick question: I have 50% left on my brakes according to trusted mechanic. Not sure if that refers to pads or rotors or both. I have had a low speed squeal as well which I attribute to aftermarket (low dust) pads. Rotors and pads were changed at the same time. Can I safely change just the pads to OE?

[JCL]

Originally Posted by scchang

Quick question: I have 50% left on my brakes according to trusted mechanic. Not sure if that refers to pads or rotors or both. I have had a low speed squeal as well which I attribute to aftermarket (low dust) pads. Rotors and pads were changed at the same time. Can I safely change just the pads to OE?

As long as the rotor is at least the minimum thickness, and the surface finish is reasonable, yes. The minimum thickness spec is stamped on the rotor. If they were changed recently, they are likely to be fine.

[scchang]

Originally Posted by JCL

As long as the rotor is at least the minimum thickness, and the surface finish is reasonable, yes. The minimum thickness spec is stamped on the rotor. If they were changed recently, they are likely to be fine.

Thanks. Now where the hell are my calipers...

[Elvis 3.0]

I went to change my brake pads this past Sunday with my brother as I thought it was time. I had a hunch though the sensor wire didn't trigger the alarm. Anyway, it turns out that the sensor wire ( on the drivers side tire in the front) was not even attached. However, I looked at the pads and they were not even close to needing a change. Anyway, the upside was that I too was dealing with a low speed wheel squeal that was very noticeable rolling up to stop signs with the windows down. Being prepared to do the aforementioned expected brake job that never happened, I had 'anti-squeal' grease ready to apply to the calipers where they meet the break pad. I did not not even remove either the calipers or the pads and simply used a pinky finger dab of anti squeal at the extreme ends of the caliper (both north and south sides), and on both sides of those areas where the make contact with the pad. That is, the outer caliper where it faces you and where it touches the pad. I made an effort to get a tiny amount between the caliper and pad. Prior to application, I used a wire brush to remove excess rust off rotor, caliper, and anti rattle clip. I used anti-seize grease on the flat surface of the rotor hub and where the lugs enter the hub. The whole process took about 15 minutes per tire. Result- no squeal. Simple.

Hope that helps.

[scchang]

Originally Posted by Elvis 3.0

I went to change my brake pads this past Sunday with my brother as I thought it was time. I had a hunch though the sensor wire didn't trigger the alarm. Anyway, it turns out that the sensor wire ( on the drivers side tire in the front) was not even attached. However, I looked at the pads and they were not even close to needing a change. Anyway, the upside was that I too was dealing with a low speed wheel squeal that was very noticeable rolling up to stop signs with the windows down. Being prepared to do the aforementioned expected brake job that never happened, I had 'anti-squeal' grease ready to apply to the calipers where they meet the break pad. I did not not even remove either the calipers or the pads and simply used a pinky finger dab of anti squeal at the extreme ends of the caliper (both north and south sides), and on both sides of those areas where the make contact with the pad. That is, the outer caliper where it faces you and where it touches the pad. I made an effort to get a tiny amount between the caliper and pad. Prior to application, I used a wire brush to remove excess rust off rotor, caliper, and anti rattle clip. I used anti-seize grease on the flat surface of the rotor hub and where the lugs enter the hub. The whole process took about 15 minutes per tire. Result- no squeal. Simple.

Hope that helps.

Thanks. What kind of anti-squeal/seize grease did you use?

[JCL]

Not sure about Elvis, but I use this:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ne_Formula.htm

Note that you want a high temperature caliper grease, not one of the plastic miracle gunk spreads that are intended to be put on the back of the pads.

[Elvis 3.0]

BMW Parts and BMW Accessories | Bavarian Autosport

it doesn't revert to a copyable link when you are on the site or I would have directed you to the specific item. After you put in the make and model, just type in 'brake' under search. I would recommend buying both the 1) anti-seize grease and 2) the noise free brake squeal silencer

I used the noise free on the pad itself where it comes into contact with the caliper. I used the anti seize on the flat part of the rotor hub as well as the lug areas of the rotor hub where the lugs are received. This is a very good idea for when you later remove the rotor as it is a rust inhibitor. Prior to doing all work, I used a $2 metal brush to remove rust from the rotor as well as the anti-rattle clips.


BavAuto is pretty good on the service and advice side if you need to call them, however in general their stuff is definitely more expensive I have found; however, their service guides/ videos/ newsletters/ and phone support are great, and therefore I will always buys simple maintenance items from them.

[staskaya]

Thanks Elvis for this suggestion....So with out taking the calipers you have applied noise canceller lubrication right? How did you do that and exactly where again did you apply this stuff.....I tried yesterday and didn't have any luck. Thanks..

[scchang]

Originally Posted by Elvis 3.0

I went to change my brake pads this past Sunday with my brother as I thought it was time. I had a hunch though the sensor wire didn't trigger the alarm. Anyway, it turns out that the sensor wire ( on the drivers side tire in the front) was not even attached. However, I looked at the pads and they were not even close to needing a change. Anyway, the upside was that I too was dealing with a low speed wheel squeal that was very noticeable rolling up to stop signs with the windows down. Being prepared to do the aforementioned expected brake job that never happened, I had 'anti-squeal' grease ready to apply to the calipers where they meet the break pad. I did not not even remove either the calipers or the pads and simply used a pinky finger dab of anti squeal at the extreme ends of the caliper (both north and south sides), and on both sides of those areas where the make contact with the pad. That is, the outer caliper where it faces you and where it touches the pad. I made an effort to get a tiny amount between the caliper and pad. Prior to application, I used a wire brush to remove excess rust off rotor, caliper, and anti rattle clip. I used anti-seize grease on the flat surface of the rotor hub and where the lugs enter the hub. The whole process took about 15 minutes per tire. Result- no squeal. Simple.

Hope that helps.

This method worked for me. I used Permatex 20356 Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube. Thanks for all the advice in this thread.