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  #11  
Old 11-21-2011, 02:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by euro96 View Post
True, but I'm trying to figure out if these things are even related. Is there a way to check for failure of the heater valves or heater core?
Are there any fuses related to these that I should check?

Thanks for the help guys
Not familiar on fuse (which one control the valve).

But you can try purge the air-pocket, with engine cold (like overnight in the garage), open the exp-tank cap, start the engine, set the temp setting to the highest, slow fan setting until engine warm. Keep an eye on the level indicator stick in the exp-tank, you may need to top coolant if you really have air-pocket. If this doesn't help, I'll call the dealer.

Those steps is what I do on all BMWs (recently on 535i with electric WP), after coolant flush never once I have problem with air-pocket in cooling system. GL
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  #12  
Old 11-22-2011, 01:17 PM
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Thanks for your help.

Anyone know if there are any fuses or relays to check?
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  #13  
Old 11-22-2011, 02:07 PM
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Do you guys think it's worth it to check out the final stage resistor even though the blower works?
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  #14  
Old 11-22-2011, 05:34 PM
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Prior to the waterpump and t-stat work was there heat into the cabin?

If not - likely a plugged heater core

If yes - defective thermostat or air pocket in the system because it wasn't bled correctly.
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  #15  
Old 11-23-2011, 11:10 AM
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Heat worked before they changed the t- stat.

Also, looking everything over this morning I confirmed two things:

1) the hoses going into and out of the heater valves are not hot at all
2) the heater valve is NOT blocking the flow of coolant, since when squeezing those hoses in between the valves and the core, it definitely moved coolant in the reservoir

Based on that, I don't think it could be the heater core, since hot Coolant doesn't seem to be even making its way over there. Also, I don't think the heater valves are the issue, since they are at least open and not blocking coolant.
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Last edited by euro96; 11-23-2011 at 11:12 AM. Reason: Typo
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