How about a ZF 5HP24 Transmission Fluid Change and Failures Poll?

[sasquatch]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

Now this is what I call misinformed.

How so? Don't just make a empty statement. Tell me why.

[SlickGT1]

Originally Posted by sasquatch

How so? Don't just make a empty statement. Tell me why.

This is purely what I have seen in previous cars, and experience from those that have done the flush.

Flush is one of those things that when they start pumping fluid, all the crud, gunk, sludge, everything gets disturbed. Now with so many micro components in the trans, like valve body, any one of those little things can clog up a passage, and there goes your trans. I know a few people that did the trans flushes, and all was ok. I also know quite a few other people that did a flush and then followed by a rebuild.

I have in the past drained and filled my auto cars every 15k - 20k miles. I have not had any trans failures to date. I do have a feeling that this car will be the exception no matter how hard I try to maintain the oil, but still, I am going to give it a try. I just did drain by dropping the pan.

Plan to do one soon again. I think I will essentially be on 50% renewed fluid and a new filter.

The shops that want to take your money will recommend a flush, because chances are, since you are there doing it, your trans is on its way out.

A trusted mechanic that I use, has always told me to stay away from a flush as well. He said you do not want to take a chance of dislodging some crap, from some seal, gear, filter, anything and pushing it into the rest of the transmission. He also said that a complete fluid change might cause a change of state in the transmission. Which will shock all the seals, clutches, and other moving components.

Draining and filling the transmission lets you refresh the properties of the oil without completely shocking the system with 12L of fresh oil.

[Ghost-Flame]

Originally Posted by sasquatch

Let me say something......I think the majority of you are a little misinformed about transmission fluid changes. The ONLY proper way to change the fluid is to have it power flushed and filled by a shop/dealer with the equipment to do so. I'm all for DIY projects but this is one you should not do in your garage. It is impossible to remove all of the old fluid out of the torque converter even if you drain/refill several times over a short period.

That's fine for some changes. When I called my indi mechanic to get a price on the ATF power flush change he asked the mileage and when I told him it had 90+K miles he said he would not do a power flush. He would do the drain and refill 3 times. He said the power flush runs the risk of loosening crude that has built up over a long time and could clog up the works.

Sure you'll leave 10% in the trans over 3 drain and fills. Its a matter of opinion weather this is enough of a change to to be benificial. I say it is. Then change it every 50K to 60K miles, imo.

[SlickGT1]

does anyone know the process of checking the oil temp with the GT1?

[Turbo_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

does anyone know the process of checking the oil temp with the GT1?

If you just want to check the temperature for filling, Inpa is easier and faster.
From memory, after selecting the transmission module, there are Analog1 and Analog2 buttons. Under one of those, you will see the temperature of the transmission.

If you prefer to work with GT1/DIS, there are procedures to check the level or fill the transmission.

Here is a 'copy'n paste' of the notes I took while exploring DIS in preparation to my future transmission oil change:
HTH

Oil level adjustement with DIS:
- Main
- Select Diagnostic
- Select E53
- all modules will appear, just click the Right arrow at the bottom right
- Select 'Function Selection' at the bottom
- On next screen, select 'Service Functions', then 'Drive'
- The pop up window will show: 'EGS Transmission control' ; select YES
- Select 'Transmission Control GS1904'; then 'Calibration'; then 'Oil Level'
- Click Right arrow at the bottom right
- on the next screen, select 'Test Plan' at the bottom and answer NO the the question about
the Short Test.
- on next screen, make sure 'Oil-level adjustment is highlighted, then press the Right green arrow
- on next screen, select '1' for 'Oil Level Check' or '2' for 'New filling after removing pan'
- Follow the instructions

[Ghost-Flame]

Originally Posted by Turbo_Bimmer

If you just want to check the temperature for filling, Inpa is easier and faster.
From memory, after selecting the transmission module, there are Analog1 and Analog2 buttons. Under one of those, you will see the temperature of the transmission.

If you prefer to work with GT1/DIS, there are procedures to check the level or fill the transmission.

Here is a 'copy'n paste' of the notes I took while exploring DIS in preparation to my future transmission oil change:
HTH

Oil level adjustement with DIS:
- Main
- Select Diagnostic
- Select E53
- all modules will appear, just click the Right arrow at the bottom right
- Select 'Function Selection' at the bottom
- On next screen, select 'Service Functions', then 'Drive'
- The pop up window will show: 'EGS Transmission control' ; select YES
- Select 'Transmission Control GS1904'; then 'Calibration'; then 'Oil Level'
- Click Right arrow at the bottom right
- on the next screen, select 'Test Plan' at the bottom and answer NO the the question about
the Short Test.
- on next screen, make sure 'Oil-level adjustment is highlighted, then press the Right green arrow
- on next screen, select '1' for 'Oil Level Check' or '2' for 'New filling after removing pan'
- Follow the instructions

I don't understand the question and I don't understand the answer. The OP asked for oil temperature and the answer addresses oil level.

Get analog or digital thermometer , they r like $30 bucks on the inter net. Unless you're have a problem it should be between 180F to 210F. Towing a heavy load maybe 215-220F+ or -

[Turbo_Bimmer]

Originally Posted by Ghost-Flame

I don't understand the question and I don't understand the answer. The OP asked for oil temperature and the answer addresses oil level.

Get analog or digital thermometer , they r like $30 bucks on the inter net. Unless you're have a problem it should be between 180F to 210F. Towing a heavy load maybe 215-220F+ or -

Yes, he was asking for a way of checking the oil temperature which is mandatory during filling or checking the level of the transmission fluid.

I pointed him to Inpa that can do it with a direct readout, but since he has GT1, I pointed him to the menu where GT1 deals with 'oil level check'.
GT1 is not just a 'reading' tool, it guides you through a procedure to check something or repair something, and in the procedure to check the oil level for the transmission, the temperature is taken into account.

[Ghost-Flame]

Originally Posted by Turbo_Bimmer

Yes, he was asking for a way of checking the oil temperature which is mandatory during filling or checking the level of the transmission fluid.

I pointed him to Inpa that can do it with a direct readout, but since he has GT1, I pointed him to the menu where GT1 deals with 'oil level check'.
GT1 is not just a 'reading' tool, it guides you through a procedure to check something or repair something, and in the procedure to check the oil level for the transmission, the temperature is taken into account.

Interesting. The DYI on this forum just mentions filling until it runs out the hole.

I would assume it's safer to fill it when it's a warmer temp. How much do you think it matters? The pan holds 3.5 qts, in the GM cold. It may expand to 3.7 or 3.8.

here's a discussion on Bob is The Oil Guy about ATF expansion.
Transmission fluid level - Bob Is The Oil Guy

Of course this is not BMW related, how sensitive is the X5 tranny to slight overfill from expanding fluid?

[SlickGT1]

IiAgX5, do the rhino ramps fit under the car, car on floor. I have one set, I was debating on how to get the car level as well. Thanks.

[TiAgX5]

My set clears the rocker panels by around a 1/2" with the X on the ground. If you have a set that don't fit, just drive each rear wheels up on a piece of 2X6 lumber then slide the ramps under. Just be sure the lumber is in place B4 driving off the ramps, you don't want to damage the rockers!