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  #1  
Old 09-24-2012, 06:55 PM
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In case anyone else is looking for these, I found the WebCat 3 links above didn't work to drill all the way down to those particular parts; these should work though.
34933 01 and 34934 01

Has anyone found a source for these in the US? I'm striking out on eBay and elsewhere; all I can find is the same part linked earlier that Sundayjumper says is incorrect. If they're available to purchase through the WebCat 3 website, I'm too dense to see it.


At this point I'm not even sure I need them, but just covering all bases in case replacing the subframe bushings doesn't correct what appears to be a camber issue on the right-rear wheel.

Thanks!
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Old 09-25-2012, 03:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davintosh View Post
Has anyone found a source for these in the US?
Any ZF dealer should be able to get hold of them, if they want to.

I got mine from this seller so if you can't find anyone local, maybe ask if they can ship to the US ?

Quote:
At this point I'm not even sure I need them, but just covering all bases in case replacing the subframe bushings doesn't correct what appears to be a camber issue on the right-rear wheel.
Replacing the subframe bushes won't alter the camber. It'll cure a clonk when you go quickly on/off the gas though.

If you jack your car up, let the air out of the spring and start pushing and pulling, I'd put money on there being a load of play in the outer ball joint and the rear upper link. Parts #2 & #11 in the diagram on page 1 of this thread. You do need to let the air out to do this though, when it's pressurised there is a lot of load on the suspension and you won't be able to detect any play. That's why my car passed its MOT despite that bush being totally fcuked.

FWIW I've ditched my E53 now as the gearbox was about to die and I couldn't face the cost of a rebuild. Bought a diesel Passat. 60mpg is awesome after getting used to 20mpg in the X5 !
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:09 AM
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Ok; that same seller has that item in the US eBay as well (seller poruks, ships from Latvia). One of your earlier comments ("Those part numbers are correct. The ebay link is not") had me confused; didn't understand which comment you were addressing. I do now.

I contacted the guy I usually source parts through yesterday about this; he can usually get anything Lemfoerder/Boge/Sachs, but he came up empty on this one. I guess it's the Latvian source for me as well.

Too bad about your X5; the short lifespan of the automatics & cost to replace makes me glad to have found a manual. Your 60mpg Peugeot does sound good though... Too bad diesels aren't as plentiful on this side of the pond. I've never quite understood the logic behind that, but perhaps that's a topic for a different thread.

Thanks for your help!
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Old 09-25-2012, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by davintosh View Post
Your 60mpg Peugeot does sound good though... Too bad diesels aren't as plentiful on this side of the pond. I've never quite understood the logic behind that, but perhaps that's a topic for a different thread.
Petrol is nearly $9/gallon here, it makes fuel consumption quite important to most people ! You need to really love your car to put up with something that does <20mpg.

And it's a Passat, i.e. a good sensible German car. Peugeot ? <spit>

Last edited by Sundayjumper; 09-25-2012 at 11:55 AM. Reason: Edit to clarify units: quoted 60mpg is Imperial and equivalent to 50mpg (US); $9/gal is correct for US gallons.
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Old 09-25-2012, 12:46 PM
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Sorry; gotta work on my reading comprehension.

Yeah, we like to complain when our fuel gets close to $4 a gallon (like now) but I remember what it cost to fill tanks when my wife & I visited the mainland last year. Ouch. It could be a lot worse here (and will be if some politicians are given too much rein. )
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Old 06-27-2014, 02:41 PM
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It took me 2 years to get to this project.It's quite a pain I should say.
One of the bolts had to be cut otherwise the arm was stuck with the bolt spinning inside and not willing to get out.If it was fused to the aluminum core of the bushing.
Now,I am wondering if somebody else has completed the same process recently.
Did anybody run into an eccentric blot side stoppers missing and making an alignment nearly impossible to perform?
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Old 06-28-2014, 08:34 PM
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Completed bushing replacement.
Pictures are coming a bit later tonight.
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  #8  
Old 06-28-2014, 11:05 PM
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I had both swing arms removed and brought to the garage,so they removed the old bushings.I had to be pushy because guy was skeptical about me being able to press the new ones in.He didn't even want to do it,so I had no choice.
I cleaned the surface of all the corroded aluminum and dirt,polished with some sand paper,it didn't need to be a fine one,just a 100 grid,I think.

After I started compressing the first bushing.You notice that it has that cut off portion.
I had some left over hose clamps(jubilee clamps) but they were too short,so I looped 2 into one and started compressing.I had a couple of clamps fail,because they weren't made of stainless steel,too soft,so the holder near the bolt broke.
I needed 3 clamps: one 1 1/2" away from the edge which gets pressed into the swing arm.The second one right in the middle bolt facing opposite direction from the first one. The third one close,for the rear bushing is a touch sticking out of the edge of the bushing,that makes a good anti-slip support for a socket,and for the rear bushing right at the edge,because a huge Home Depot washer goes on top of it and then the socket,otherwise it slips like hell.
Tips. I found out that using two smaller/shorter clamps looped works the best.It compresses that gap like crazy,while if the single clamp is used,there's way more resistance.Before you start placing the bushing into the swing arm hole,notch it with a metal file,that makes a huge difference.Home Depot washer 32xx(I am gonna check the item number in the morning) fits just perfectly for the front bushing and a 36mm socket has the perfect diameter for both rear and front.That washer isn't needed for the rear one at all.See the pictures.I used a gray anti–seize and hammered each bushing in let's say in 2 or 3 minutes excluding the time for undoing the clamps one by one as I was progressing.

Never mind the mess on my bench.
Also the last picture shows an anti–seize dripping from the bottom and not the chipped rim of the swing arm hole.
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Old 06-30-2014, 10:46 AM
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Just curious, if you have coil springs, what was the procedure to remove the springs?

Thanks!

Joaquin.
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Old 06-30-2014, 10:02 PM
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You would definitely need to compress you coil springs,otherwise it's nearly impossible to remove the bolts,getting them back into holes would be even worse.

Quote:
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Just curious, if you have coil springs, what was the procedure to remove the springs?

Thanks!

Joaquin.
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