Key cylinder fix

[romeokc10]

Yep, your cylinder is broken, get the kit on Ebay, there's a step by step video, several actually, on You Tube, easy fix.

[regulatorfix]

Originally Posted by Greg C

What do you mean by spinning barrel? This just happened to my 2003 X5 today. Key turns 90 degrees either way, but does not unlock door. Fortunately, one of my keys still works remotely. But don't want to chance it stops working.

Some clarification:
the 'lock cylinder' is basically just a cage that 'checks' the fit of your key and allows then to apply a rotating action. It doesn't do anything else.

The lock cylinder then is connected to the 'lock mechanism' with a long 'pedal' and some other parts. The tip of the paddle inserts into the lock mechanism.

Once 'cleared for action' (i.e. your key pushed the locking parts out and allows rotation), the paddle (and some other parts) then mechanically move the lock mechanism and activates the solenoids in there.

The common 'spinning barrel syndrome' results from paddle or other connecting parts broken, effectively disconnecting your key from the lock mechanism.

The kits (I have X5, X3 and 3 Series E46) contain the parts need to fix it. Your key and lock cylinder remain as is (no problem, re-coding or else).

RegulatorFix.com

Also some tutorial links on the website.

Or:
"RegulatorFix" on ebay
"RegulaotrFix" on Amazon

[email protected] for questions.

[Greg C]

Thanks, just ordered it.

[regulatorfix]

Thanks. Just shipped it. Tracking sent. Will be updated by USPS later this afternoon typially.

[Ricky Bobby]

I'm more interested in what window regulator parts you have available, does this mean you can repair your existing window regulator if it fails using your parts only?

[regulatorfix]

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

I'm more interested in what window regulator parts you have available, does this mean you can repair your existing window regulator if it fails using your parts only?

Most window problems are caused by one of the 2 (in front windows) plastic regulator clips breaking. The cable is the pushing the window glass only on one side, which leads to binding and causes the window to slow down, stop or reverse when going up. When the 2nd clip breaks, the entire window may drop down.

The clips are made from POM: wiki explains as follows: Polyoxymethylene (POM), also known as acetal, polyacetal and polyformaldehyde, is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts requiring high stiffness, low friction and excellent dimensional stability. As with many other synthetic polymers, it is produced by different chemical firms with slightly different formulas and sold variously by such names as Delrin, Celcon, Ramtal, Duracon and Hostaform.

The clips break not from wear or excessive force, but rather form 'aging' and becoming brittle. The failure (5-10 years typically) is very common across all OEMs. Some clip designs are more prone to breakage then others. And even very large clips (Audi A4 B6 rear, Passat rear) fail at similar rate.

The OEM do not offer replacement parts (as with most modules on the car; you can't buy just the window motor either, but need to buy the entire module with electronics). The typical cost range of a regulator is $200-$400. Add labor for installation, changing a defective regulator can run anywhere from $400-$800.

When faced with this situation a few years ago, I refused and started my search (in Europe) for someone who is making the 'clips' that I needed. In the process, I also realized that LOTS of others are faced with the same problem (and also came across - in some cases fairly obscure - 'ghetto fix' solutions).

Based on my experience (ca. 10,000 or thereabouts of my clips are installed in cars today), I would guess that 90% of all failures are clips. In some cases, the failure of the clip leads to the cable loosing its tension (by jumping off the guide rollers) and getting kinked. In some cases, the cable itself corrodes or becomes 'frazzled' and not winding up properly anymore in the spiral groove of the drive pulley.

I hope this helps to shed some light into the DIY "RegulatorFix".

The short answer to your question therefore is: yes, in most cases, the clips DO fix your window regulator problem.

[Ricky Bobby]

OK so not to get off topic, if I want to preventatively repair my regulators up front since those windows see the most use, I have 4 of the "black clips" from the dealer which hold the window in place, what else do I need, just the clips you sell on your website.

Can this repair all be done with the regulator in place or does it need to be removed? If all I need are $30 per side of your clips I would gladly preventatively repair my regulators before failure.

[regulatorfix]

Not sure what the 'black clips from dealer' are. Photo?
I should have a DIY link on my website under 'tutorials' for the X5 front regulator clips. RegulatorFix.com

[Ricky Bobby]

Here are the window clips:



Considering the amount of people replacing window regulators for $150 a pop around here it would probably be a good idea to make a master "Window Regulator Fix" thread so people can get advice and perhaps some direction on how to save some money and actually fix the problem as opposed to just putting the same parts on that fail.

[RFaber]

Good idea! I have used lock parts from RegulatorFix's site before, and have had great success! in my case, some of the internal rotating parts were broken, the instructions are clear and easy to understand, I have also picked up a bunch of the clips from the stealership, and there are two varieties, ones for the front window and ones for the back! (they appear different dimensionally)
one is black and the other white, different part numbers too from what i recall!
at least they were cheap!