Possible seized engine? *updated

[Allstarsrd12]

There are a lot of different factors to this situation, so I'll try to explain them the best I can. Not all bits are certain to be related, but all information helps.


Situation as it stands now: Car is a 2001 3.0i
Indie said I needed to have the radiator r/r due to a coolant leak and tempermental overheating. Repair was done, followed by a call from him saying they took it around the block and it overheated again, and was now blowing white smoke, which he says is coolant, from the exhaust. (Car ran fine the morning of when I drove it on to the flat bed). Also now has mustard-goop under the oil cap. Coolant is still leaking.
His ruling: Block is more than likely cracked, going to need a new engine.


All the stuff in between:
12/15/11 - water pump replaced, but for some reason, thermostat was not.....

12/18/11 - Drive from Miami, FL to NYC (CT Line). just to not the change of climates. not overheating, all fine. however the yellow oil light comes on intermittently for a couple seconds then goes away.

Spent a month in the area. ALWAYS made sure to do long trips tro burn off any condensation possible, as to avoid all the dreaded CCV stories I've read. Also this is the trucks first winter in about 4 years.

1/15/12 - drove back to Miami. Car drove absolutely amazing, no overheating what so ever. averaging about 90-110 most of the time (2 scanners monitoring all trunked and open freq., V1, CB Radio, 2 Gps', and Waze running on ipad (honestly one of the best hidden driving tools from the iOS world and free for the ipad)

Stopped in NC (he just had gotten to the median from a previous traffic stop and had just turned his radar on - v1 caught it but was too late. bad break)
Could clearly smell coolant. turned car off. ended up getting off the next exit at South of the Border, which is where I first noticed I had a coolant leak. NOTE this is also just about exactly where the climate changed from about 15-20 degrees and shot up to around 45-55.
Coolant left traces clearly showing that there was leak from somewhere around the upper expansion tank/upper rad. hose area. sprayed outward toward air filter box area, very small puddle on ground beneath. Again, no signs of overheating. Left as is, added a little bit of oil, continued on.

NC - to Miami- car driving perfectly, no overheating what so ever, avg. 90-110 (late at night, didnt see anyone for miles).

Once in Miami, did my little drives around town, etc etc, for about two days, no overheating.
Went to star-bucks drive thru. I also turned the A/C on for the first time (since NYC, had been on 83 degrees, lowest fan setting, heat. first time climate control temp had been changed in about 2 weeks). This was followed by my first overheating/steaming issue. Luckily was able to get out of the way and shut car off immediately. went inside to get coffee, came back, turned car on, temp gauge right in the middle where it should be, no smoking/steaming, idling fine. Indie was just down the road, decided to take it to him right away (about a mile or two).
Brings everything up to where he said I need a new rad. but could get around for a couple days by adding water when engine was 100% cold, as needed.
couple days later, had flat bed come (just to be safe), and take it in for the new rad. Again, the morning of the new rad. repair, truck drove 100% fine up the flat-bed.

After the whole situation, when I got there finally I asked to see the old radiator (Something just isn't sitting right with me about their work and integrity). Asked if it was cracked, and he said yes, towards the bottom on drivers side. Note that the original leak clearly appeared to be coming from upper rad hose connecting area, right near rad cap. I do not yet know if the heater unit sealing rings were replaced when new rad was installed, as instructed in the TIS .
So, new rad, coolant still leaking near top area where I beleived original leak was coming from, still over heating, yellow goop under oil cap, white smoke out of exhaust. he said its toast.
I have a gut feeling saying the termostat is stuck, as well as the little valve possibly in the lower rad hose. Also bad fitting on upper rad hose. R/R those, wipe up any good I can, oil change (maybe sea-foam too), re-bleed, followed by a long smooth highway run to get oil up to temp to burn off any condensation.


SO! lol, any input on what could possibly be going on here. Is the block really toast, or could my hunch be correct?


Thanks so much for any help what-so-ever. Feel like theres a lot of little stuff to keep in mind with this sort of thing, so I definitely need some outside opinions.