New guy with an X5, have a few questions about the frond end!

[JCL]

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

In cold climates you need an oil that flows like water on inital start-up, thicker oil cannot provide proper lubrication at low temps. Timing chain guides are plastic and fail when under-lubed! The LL spec is a must because the shop will be following the SII (service interval indicator) in the instrument cluster, the oil change will be done every 12k or 15k miles depending on conditions. The non-LL spec fluids will be shot long before that mileage is achieved.

Flowing like water would be bad. Flowing like 5w when cold would be good. It doesn't get cold enough in Washington state to need lower than a 5w, but 0w would be fine

I wouldn't put any weight on the LL spec for North American use in a gasoline model.

LL98 is very out of date as is LL01. And LL04 is specifically recommended against by BMW on gasoline models due to premature oil breakdown caused by our fuels. See the TSB.

When the OP's car was new it called for API SJ. Any API SM would be great. My 03 called for API SJ 5w30 and I used BMW oil or Castrol. I would be very comfortable with Mobil 1 0w40 instead of looking for an old LL spec

Edit: I checked. The 2002 model called for API SH, a 1992 spec. And BMW did not mention their LL spec in the 2002 owner manual

[thunderX]

At that mileage and w/ the symptoms you describe, I would change the following, AutoHausAZ.com is a great source:

Front Tension Struts w/ new Rubber bushings
Front Tension Strut Ball Joints
Front Control Arms w/ new bushings and new ball joints
Front Axle, whichever is clicking
New CV Boots- probably the reason for the eventual clicking

Since you're mileage is high, I bet your Rear tires have too much negative camber from worn out Upper Rear Control Arms- get those replaced also or you'll be replacing perfectly good tires that just have worn out inside edges.

For oil, I just go to the dealer since it's actually cheap as could be...under $6/qt.

Good luck, the X will be great w/ these new parts.

[02x592]

Thanks for the replies guys! I've looked up all of the DIY threads for the axles, looks easy as pie really. Not as bad as other vehicles I've put them on... *cough* 3.5L Dodge Intrepid... To get those suckers out required a truck with a chain wrapped around the axle and some serious yanking. Yelloh!

I'll probably throw a new water pump in so it doesn't strand me. Oh, do these have the same valley coolant pipe seal issue as the newer 7-series? I put one in an '03 745I and my God what a pain in the ass that was! The Bimmerpipe made it a lot easier though.

Actually the rear camber isn't bad at all, looks the same as all of the super low mileage X5s I've seen and the tire wear is pretty normal so far. The air ride works great (guaranteed I just shot myself in the foot saying that). It does have a little bit of a squat so I'll definitely give everything a real good look over. I put new tires on and the Michelins that came off were well worn but fairly even in the back, only some noticeable wear to the inside.

The oil change is every 5,000-6,000 miles on it. It was 3,000 but since it's synthetic I told them to quit wasting their money and my time and they refused to go any longer than that.

I read through the timing chain guide stuff and have heard of them failing on 4.4Ls. So far my engine is quiet as a mouse. *Knock on wood.* If I get the time I'll take a gander!

Fortunately an awesome local German shop and parts store gets me OEM-quality for parts stupid cheap, usually imported from Germany or Japan. That CV axle is only $80. For example, a knock sensor for a Subaru Outback is generally $80-120 for generic parts - made in China BS. For $40 I got a direct from Japan part that is also the manufacturer of the factory equipment. Ishino/Stone manufacturers gaskets and seals for Nissans and through Bartosh I got cam seals for a VG for $1.69 a piece, under the Nissan name they are almost $7 a piece. Instead of paying $26 a piece for Nissan head gaskets I paid $14. It's like that with every part I've bought and they're always top-notch quality. Hell a flex disk for an '83 Mercedes 300TD was only $61.

About the oil. Well if it's not what's supposed to be in there I'll tell them to change the type. I don't care about spec-oils in "generic" rigs but one of these...

What do y'all think about Redline fluids in the ZFs? When talking to the parts guy he said that's what they put in and they have never had a return for a failure in the last 8 years.

For the control arms. Is there any reason why I can't take the arms out and press new bushings in? That's not rocket science... or are these like the POS Volkswagens with the tin-can pressed arms? It is German. I've cracked a few Jetta arms trying to press new bushings in before...

[thunderX]

Yeah, the axle is not that tough. Look at the DIY on how to do it in 30 minutes- I used that method to pop the axle out, much faster than the book.

A new H2O pump is a good idea- when I did mine I also replaced every hose under the hood, especially that silly plastic one at the reservoir. That thing starts soft and flexible but after 60K it gets brittle and breaks easily.

Glad you know about the Rear Camber issues.

Oil? Easy, just get the right spec from the dealer.

Tranny fluid? I only trust OEM fluid, so that's what I bought when I had it done, but many here say Redline is OK. I'll stick to OEM.

You can definitely change just the Control Arm Bushings. The other end is the ball joint, so if your BJs are good, you can just do that. These are cheap, only $12-$14 each and you need 2. HINT: when you pop out the control arm, thread the nut onto the BJ and use a heavy hammer. You will probably need a new nut after, but you avoid the need for a puller and this method is very quick.

[02x592]

Well I put the new amp in and now there's two problems.

1) Sounds like crap, very hollow and muddy sounding. Nothing like it was before.
2) Sound shuts off after 40 seconds until I turn the radio off and back on. Repeat process.

2002 BMW X5 DSP stereo sound shutting off after 40 seconds - YouTube

And if I remember right isn't the DSP light on the radio supposed to light up?

[02x592]

Oh, looked under the rig today and the CV boots are in perfect shape.

[electricalserv x5]

I have the same milage, and the same noise a little shaking when braking, it was the ball joints...............

[anthonytexas]

I have the same issue as the OP's #4...groaning noise when cold. Very annoying. Not sure if its a symptom of something bigger.