Suspension refresh(R/F)/oil pan gasket

[X5chemist]

Best oil pan replacement video I've found on an X5 E53 3.0i.


YouTube link incase it does not show up on your browser: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZS2SwgnCw4

Any suspension part not replaced up front will be replaced this time around. Watching the video, the only part not on my replaced/replacing list are front wheel bearings. The rears are no problem. Rear arms, rose ball joint, shocks, diff oil, shafts, and flex discs will be replaced. I'll replace the rear hub and bearing as a unit when the time comes. Since the front is more involved, I'm thinking of replacing them. How long do OEM wheel bearings last? With all the suspension and subframe out, replacing the front bearings will only take a little extra time. Should I leave them alone this time around?

Mine has the same oil pan leak. Looks like a bee hive at that front corner. Oil pan and axle seals will be replaced. We'll be using a lift. Wish I had a parts cleaner like the video. After all the work, a BMW shop will do the alignment. My cuz is a shop manager for a dealer. He'll cut me a nice price and check it over. A GMIII module is also being replaced. He'll code it for me too. The replacement should fix my last current amp draw through F60. It's a 200 mA draw.

I didn't find a "How to's" on an oil pan. Does anyone have tricks or advise? The video guy did it in one day. Does the book say 10 hours? I have 3 full days to complete all work with help. I think it's possible.

Edit: adding pictures. The two front shafts have torn boots. The front oil leak I can live with. It actually slowed down after tightening all the oil pan bolts I could reach. However, the rear oil pan looks serious. I took these pics while it was on a lift for roof drain cleaning.

[nick325xit 5spd]

With the axles out, and the control arms off, replacing the bearings is pretty trivial if you have access to a press.

Note: If you're doing this work, don't even bother trying to get the tension strut balljoint out of the kingpin until the kingpin is off the car. Just unbolt the tension strut from the subframe and pull it out. A few whacks with a hammer off directly on the balljoint will pop it out in 15 seconds.

[nick325xit 5spd]

As for the oil pan, you're already doing a decent fraction of the work.

The real challenge with getting this done in 3 days is making sure you have all the parts available. You can comfortably do the work if you don't need to order anything. If you do, you're screwed.

[Russianblue]

did you mean to include a video link? I'd like to see it. I gotta do an oil pan gasket myself.

[X5chemist]

Yes, a YouTube link is posted. Some browsers don't show it. My first post is edited to post a direct link.

Here is the direct link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZS2SwgnCw4
There is another video I found that had good information. I'll search and post a link to it too.

I've watched the video about 5 times. I have a note book with a tear down sequence written down. I've checked my parts spreadsheet carefully. I should have all major parts needed. Any more parts needed will be because we broke them or found unseen damaged parts.

We have access to a hydraulic press. I'll go ahead and order two front Timkin bearings. The front a arms, ball joints and thrust arms are new. Those parts will come off easily. My concern are tie rod assemblies. I have replacements for them too.

My helper is a better mechanic than me. We have access to tons of tools. I'll take pictures to post.

[nick325xit 5spd]

Originally Posted by X5chemist

Yes, a YouTube link is posted. Some browsers don't show it. My first post is edited to post a direct link.

Here is the direct link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rZS2SwgnCw4
There is another video I found that had good information. I'll search and post a link to it too.

I've watched the video about 5 times. I have a note book with a tear down sequence written down. I've checked my parts spreadsheet carefully. I should have all major parts needed. Any more parts needed will be because we broke them or found unseen damaged parts.

We have access to a hydraulic press. I'll go ahead and order two front Timkin bearings. The front a arms, ball joints and thrust arms are new. Those parts will come off easily. My concern are tie rod assemblies. I have replacements for them too.

My helper is a better mechanic than me. We have access to tons of tools. I'll take pictures to post.

Order FAG bearings. Timken will either be FAG or generic. You don't want the latter.

I may have to give up and do this job on jack stands myself. I don't think my friend's lift is going to be available anytime soon.

[X5chemist]

Here's another X5 oil pan leak video. The guy unbolted everything off the subframe. I'm leaving the rack and pinion bolts on. The hoses will be disconnected instead. Bearings on order. Complete strut assemblies will reduce work time too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qShx0uKZEH4

Black rattle paint cans and lots of brake cleaner are going to be used.

[nick325xit 5spd]

I will note that I'd recommend focusing on the front before you do anything with the rear. All of the rear work is easily accomplished on jack stands. It's pulling the subframe that will be a lot less pleasant.

[X5chemist]

I agree. I have to travel half a day to get to Oklahoma. The plan is to get the rear done that afternoon. Once done, two full days are available to do the front end. I'll need half a day to get back to Austin. Setting up the alignment will be tricky. It has to go to Tulsa 153 miles away. Either tow it or drive there. It has brand new tires. I think we can string align it to get it to Tulsa without tearing up the tires.

[nick325xit 5spd]

Originally Posted by X5chemist

I agree. I have to travel half a day to get to Oklahoma. The plan is to get the rear done that afternoon. Once done, two full days are available to do the front end. I'll need half a day to get back to Austin. Setting up the alignment will be tricky. It has to go to Tulsa 153 miles away. Either tow it or drive there. It has brand new tires. I think we can string align it to get it to Tulsa without tearing up the tires.

To get to an alignment, use toe plates. Will save you a lot of setup effort vs. strings and they're accurate on the axle. Try to use symmetrical adjustments side to side and you'll be close enough on the thrust angle. It'll take you minutes to align each axle this way.

Do the rear first. You can pretty easily set the adjusters. Eyeball align the front - look down the tire with one eye and adjust the toe until you can just see the rear wheel. Do this on both sides and you'll get your thrust angle close enough. Throw the toe plates on and make symmetrical adjustments until you're at 0ish.

(For the record, I string align my cars with smart strings or hub stands. You can get a great alignment that way, but there's no reason to go to that effort to get 150 miles.)