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  #31  
Old 12-11-2015, 04:48 PM
LVP LVP is offline
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It's on original BMW part and you can't get aftermarket. Just shop around and see who has the best price. You could try getbmwparts.com as well. I've had good luck with those guys on the turbos for my 535i.
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- 2004 X5 4.4, 01/2004 production, 340,000km
- 2008 535i, 240,000km

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- 1996 328i, track/race car, ~300,000km

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- 2001 Ski-Doo MXZ 600 w/800 engine, exhaust
- 1978 Ski-Doo Olympique 340 (vintage race sled)
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  #32  
Old 12-11-2015, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LVP View Post
It's on original BMW part and you can't get aftermarket. Just shop around and see who has the best price. You could try getbmwparts.com as well. I've had good luck with those guys on the turbos for my 535i.
Thank you. GetBMWParts is selling for $185 after a 20% discount.

BMW Dealers online are offering a 10% discount and selling for $207.

Hence my question is if GetBMW parts is selling same part from BMW USA

Double joint. STEER.COL.-LOWER JOINT ASSEMBLY made by BMW. #32306758076

BMW X5 (1999-2007). #32306758076: Double joint
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  #33  
Old 12-11-2015, 05:56 PM
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Genuine BMW is what they sell. You can email them and they are pretty quick to respond. Actually they only respond electronically. But as soon as you place the order it is processed, so make sure it's right. It was really quick getting my turbos. No issues with the guys at all.
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Daily Drivers:
- 2004 X5 4.4, 01/2004 production, 340,000km
- 2008 535i, 240,000km

Track:
- 1996 328i, track/race car, ~300,000km

Winter:
- 2001 Ski-Doo MXZ 600 w/800 engine, exhaust
- 1978 Ski-Doo Olympique 340 (vintage race sled)
- 1977 Ski-Doo Olympique 340E

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  #34  
Old 12-12-2015, 08:18 PM
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ECStuning.com reliable and sell genuine BMW parts? They are offering free shipping
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  #35  
Old 12-12-2015, 08:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by utsc View Post
ECStuning.com reliable and sell genuine BMW parts? They are offering free shipping
Good source!
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  #36  
Old 12-14-2015, 10:46 AM
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Thank you everyone. I will be ordering from ECS Tunning as they are selling it for the same price as others & also offering FREE shipping.
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  #37  
Old 12-14-2015, 01:17 PM
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I'm curious what the comparison is to arrive at tight steering. If the X5 is tight compared to some other brand, then the comparison is invalid. If the comparison is to another X5, then there can be stuff to fix.

My X has steering that is dramatically tighter than the Mazda MPV it replaced, but I paid extra for the tight steering. Without knowing what "tight" means, and whether it is in relation to other BMWs or other makes, there is no right answer to the question.
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  #38  
Old 07-17-2018, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nezarnuaimat View Post
Hi there,

After a thorough discussion with some nice members at this thread Tight Steering, thanks to SlickGT1 & petener999, I decided to replace the STEERING DOUBLE UNIVERSAL JOINT no. 2 here


The new part I installed is not really new; it's removed from a crushed X5.

The job itself is easy, however, removing other parts, hoses and pipes to allow access would increase the task time to up to three hours.

No specific material is required, only some grease to unable easier insertion of both hexagonal and astral rod ends of the universal joint. You'll need to refill the cooling fluid as one water hose should be removed.

NOTE: some E53 come with quadruple rod end, not hexagonal.

Here we go. This is the mechanic


My last trial with this faulty joint was to put some grease. This made it tougher as in fact its internal X-link was severely corroded.


Removed


First end


Other end


This rod is coming from the steering wheel




















Got my sweetie washed up


And here we go


Thanks again pals; this is the best forum.

Nezar - Saudi Arabia

NOTE: my odometer reads 260,XXX Km!
Hi Nezar,

Ur photos have disappeared. Can u kindly repost the pictures?

Thanks!
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  #39  
Old 11-30-2020, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrFixIt View Post
I just replaced the double joint on my X5 (2003 4.4 with duel heater water regulator. Not much room to work, but I took a short cut. Actual job took only 42 minutes, and I was going very slow.

OP, thank you for posting this DIY. Spent hours reading all the posts related to this problem, and more hours staring at the double joint on the X trying to figure out how to remove the lower torx bolt (#10) without having to remove all the hoses like the OP did.

I did not remove any water hoses (hrs of extra work avoided). Here is what I did:

1. (Safety) Waited until the X5 engine compartment was completely cold before starting any work.

2. Jacked the front of the X5 up slightly; put on jack stand (safety). This will allow you to manipulate the steering wheel easily and without putting too much torque on the double joint while the upper torx is removed. Also gave me a little more room to work from the bottom.

3. Dead centered the steering wheel to expose the upper torx bolt.

4. Removed the three 10mm bolts holding the heater regulator against the wall (see pic), and sort of pushed the entire hoses/unit out of the way enough to clear sufficient room to work the upper bolt on the double joint. Removed the upper torx bolt (used long extension). Kept the steering column attached after removing upper bolt.

5. From dead center, turned steering wheel (gently) 180 degrees left or right (BMW logo will be upside down). This will align the bottom torx bolt to the rear of the X5 where it will easily be accessible.

6. Approached the X5 from the front and under. You should be able to access the lower bolt with an extension and remove the bolt. I found it was easiest to position the ratchet extension above the sway bar--the angle of attack was almost perfect. Removed the bolt.

7. Went back up to work from the top. Removed the double joint. Pulled up on the steering column; it easily disengaged from the double joint.

8. Reached down and pulled up the lower part of the double to disengage it from the bottom splines. Took a slightly more force, but came off easily.

9. Gently maneuvered the double joint out.

10. Cleaned the contact points of the steering column and the lower part/spines. Applied a light coat of high temp grease.

11. Installed double joint. Did the lower first; aligned and gently pushed down. (do not force if jammed).

12. Aligned steering column and upper double joint--gently pulled down the column. It should fall in smoothly--did. Had to turn steering wheel slightly to properly align the slots.

13. Went back under the X and installed the torx bolt (must use new bolt). Torqued to spec (I torqued to "yep, that's good and tight"--hard to get a torque wrench in there).

14. Gently turned steering wheel back to dead center.

15. Installed the upper torx bolt (must use new bolt) and torqued to spec.

16. Tested steering wheel with a few turns--silky smooth and felt as new.

17. Removed jack stands and lowered the X.

18. Reinstalled the three 10mm bolts on the water heater regulator. Inspected all hoses/connections, put them all back in their places, and double checked all work. Done!

19. Road tested--WOW! It's new again. No more popping, cracking, clicking. Nice and tight and zero play.

The old double joint was so loose and clunky. The black rubber bushings were deteriorated.
Hi MrFixIt. Do you have the part number for the steering u-joint on a 2003 X5 4.6is?
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  #40  
Old 11-30-2020, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maruzo View Post
Hi MrFixIt. Do you have the part number for the steering u-joint on a 2003 X5 4.6is?
In case MrFixIt isn't here still, the part number is BMW # 32306758076 - from here on RealOEM...

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=32_1188
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