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  #1  
Old 04-17-2012, 06:32 AM
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Transfer Case Actuator failed - Still Drivable without further damage?

Hi All,

I know there are a few posts about Transfer Case actuator issues and it looks like I have the familiar striped plastic gear issue, but I cannot find a definitive answer and hoping a tech can answer (or someone that has gone through this).

I am waiting for a new actuator to be delivered. This could be within a week or so. My Indy said the car is fine to drive, although it will be 100% rear wheel drive and the braking wont have ABS/DSC assistance.

I have the Yellow 4x4, ABS and RED brake lights on, even as soon as the key is turned on. Also, you cant hear the actuator calibrating like it normally would when the car is started or stopped. I connected the car to my DIS software and did a test on the actuator. You can hear the motor turning, then a clunk, then DIS shows a failed test.

So, the question is: Can I drive it normally (not highway, not big trips, maybe 10-15km each way) without doing damage to the clutch pack or other components. From the information obtained, the clutch packs are NOT engaged so should NOT be being harmed in anyway, however, I have read that the clutch packs are engaged when the actuator fails.

That is my dilemma. Any definitive answers from experience as to whether driving it this way can/will cause more damage???

Believe me, I dont want to drive it this way (or leave it this way) but its the only car I own and I need to use it now and again..

Thanks,
Rob
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  #2  
Old 04-17-2012, 07:19 AM
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if you can hear a clunk from the actuator, the actuator is ok, and the transfer case is most likely faulty. you should not be able to hear this actuator make any noises when adapting the transfer case. To be sure, when you recieve your actuator, remove the old one and with your hand, spin the exposed shaft with your hand, if you can, you will need to replace the transfer case.
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Old 04-17-2012, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by killcrap View Post
if you can hear a clunk from the actuator, the actuator is ok, and the transfer case is most likely faulty. you should not be able to hear this actuator make any noises when adapting the transfer case. To be sure, when you recieve your actuator, remove the old one and with your hand, spin the exposed shaft with your hand, if you can, you will need to replace the transfer case.
Thanks for the response.. I hope you are wrong in saying the transfer case is the issue, but knowing my luck, it will be the whole case..

To add a bit more info, the Indy said they put a "new" actuator in but it turned out to be a second hand one (probably while waiting fo the new part). The Indy has told me he could hear like a ratchet sound coming from this actuator after the car engine was turned off (when it tries to calibrate I presume and to me, that is the gears jumping on the worm drive of the actuator.. Im probably wrong). I think they have driven the car after putting this second hand actuator in without running the calibrating sequence. I heard it once, but after I ran the test, and the lights are always on, I havent heard that since. He apparently took it to BMW Service centre and they stated the actuator was at fault too.

These are the codes coming from the test:
5462 - Servo motor coupling force too high
5463 - Actuator Mechanism faulty
54C8 - VTG Classification Resistor issue - nonplausible (whatever that means)
54C4 - Actuator Calibration Faulty

Geez, I just hope it is the actuator...

Thanks again,
Rob

Last edited by rb0135; 04-17-2012 at 07:58 AM.
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Old 04-19-2012, 03:30 AM
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Cant believe only one post from killcrap and nothing from anyone else, yet you guys constantly reply to people that dont know how to search the forums... Maybe all the "experts" have left this forum.

Now that I have had my rant....

I finally got the new actuator, installed it, programmed it and it is perfect.

It wasnt the transfer case, thank god for that.

Good to have the car running on all 4's again.
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  #5  
Old 04-19-2012, 10:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rb0135 View Post
Cant believe only one post from killcrap and nothing from anyone else, yet you guys constantly reply to people that dont know how to search the forums... Maybe all the "experts" have left this forum.

Now that I have had my rant....

I finally got the new actuator, installed it, programmed it and it is perfect.

It wasnt the transfer case, thank god for that.

Good to have the car running on all 4's again.
Good news. I would have contributed, but this is a completely unknown area for me. Although I may be heading into the same issue I feel. I had the christmas tree of light light up last week, and then went away on its own. I also heard that clunk right before it did that as well.

Did you change out the oil after doing installing the new actuator? That plastic gear crap must be in there somewhere. Also make sure to reset adaptations. But I am pretty sure DIS would have addressed this.
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by SlickGT1 View Post
Good news. I would have contributed, but this is a completely unknown area for me. Although I may be heading into the same issue I feel. I had the christmas tree of light light up last week, and then went away on its own. I also heard that clunk right before it did that as well.

Did you change out the oil after doing installing the new actuator? That plastic gear crap must be in there somewhere. Also make sure to reset adaptations. But I am pretty sure DIS would have addressed this.
Thanks.. I understand this could have been an unknown area, but with so many failing, I thought atleast someone (and not discounting killCrap's reply) has been there before..

That happened to me.. The lights came on, then went away after I turned off the ignition (it calibrates itself when that occurs I read somewhere).. Then about 1-2 weeks later, came on again, so did the research and found the culprit.

Another issue I felt after the lights first shown themselves was starting off. You start to accelerate, feel like a little bump/hesitation like a gear slip. The lights didnt come on, but I would guess it was the actuator not applying enough torque (or trying to but couldnt because of the missing gear teeth) to the clutch plates then released. Since the new part is in, that symptom has gone as well.

But prior to that, maybe the last 3 months, when I turned off the ignition, I could hear a dull thump, but never got the lights during that 3 months.

Took it to the Indy straight after the 2nd time.

Yes, I got them to do the oil in the transfer box as well. There was no code thrown saying the oil was degraded/out of spec, but after 106000km, thought why not. The oil only cost AU$45. It wasnt a nice color when it came out either.

The plastic is contained in the actuator itself. There arent any pieces so to speak, just plastic dust. It adheres to the grease on the worm drive from the actuator motor. It cant get into the case.

All adaptions were reset as you have to have the actuator configured to the transfer case (using DIS or other approved software). It has a special resistor on it and the configuration tells the program in the car's computer how much torque the new actuator needs to apply to the clutch packs. I know some people say they didnt do this... but dont take the chance.. It is in every manual I read (BMW and Others) that it needs to be done. If the clutch packs go, most say replace the transfer case, not just the Clutch Packs (3 of them). I did read you can get Clutch packs for it, but I havent gone looking.

Id say, get your money ready... Least you know what most likely the issue is.. Just a matter of time..

Regards,
Rob
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Old 11-28-2013, 09:32 PM
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Very good info...

I repair my transfer case, change de chain (ATC500), and i´m waiting for my diagnostic cable... glad to find this post!
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Old 12-19-2015, 09:36 AM
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I have a BMW X5 2006 3.0D. The car is just breaking one part at a time. In this case I had an issue like this with similar codes and took it to the only BMW dealer in the country.
The mechanic there told me it was the actuator gear. It was stripped once before and then I replaced the gear. I told him that when I took it off it moved like something was broken inside the transfer case.

Ok so I believed him took the car home. Took apart the actuator motor and the new gear was fine. Could feel the transfer case loose and what to do. Thought maybe it is the electronics for the control of the actuator.

So I ordered a new actuator $850 US. Got it put it in and still same errors. Took it to the BMW workshop and thought maybe it needs adaption. They could not get it to adapt.

They had a spare car with the same transfer case and swapped them over to test. Everything fine. Then he checked the feel of mine and it was loose where the other one is tight. So as the post above I will confirm that if you take off the actuator and can turn the transfer case spline it drives with your hand with no resistance it is the transfer case.

Cheapest price I can get online is $2450 US plus postage. From dealer installed I am looking at $4000 US here.

So these symptoms your transfer case is stuffed. With the current costs I have endured on this car in a remote location I am close to calling it quits. BMWs are an expensive piece of junk after 10 years.

Ok to answer another question the transfer case just balances power to the front wheels for all wheel drive. Even if it fails you can continue to drive on rear wheel drive. For the moment I will just be doing that. It only drives in town and in traffic jams so not worth fixing this.

In the last year I have replaced Air compressor, air bags for suspension, front thermostat fan, belts, the dpf has blocked up and I cleaned it and it needs a new one, just after I fixed all this stuff and it looked like rear wheel was the go from here on in. The vibration damper packed it in. Also have replaced manifold gaskets and oil gaskets. Still have valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets to go. They are all leaking. The car has done just under 200,000 km and is less than 10 years old. Plus the actuator I did not need and other things. The sunroof is stuffed and it is just one thing after another. And the broken door carrier. Up to 3 now.

It takes 8 hours for the dealer to change the oil pan gasket as some of the front suspension has to come out. Labour here is $75 per hour at the dealer and $5 per day outside is you can do it yourself with the help of others.

Seriously if you ever consider buying a secondhand BMW forget it. It is not worth it unless you want to slowly repair it over time. Ok will post a few other things elsewhere about DPF etc. but wanted to share this bit of info because I have unfortunately confirmed some information I read here. Good luck to all of you with your BMtroubleU.
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Old 12-19-2015, 09:51 AM
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Did you not realize you were buying a BMW when you were car shopping? If you were not ready to spin wrenches, you should not have considered this purchase. Nothing is hard to fix, just takes time and some dedication.

And can't someone rebuild the tcase?
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  #10  
Old 12-19-2015, 10:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SlickGT1 View Post
Did you not realize you were buying a BMW when you were car shopping? If you were not ready to spin wrenches, you should not have considered this purchase. Nothing is hard to fix, just takes time and some dedication.

And can't someone rebuild the tcase?
The lucky thing for me is that I did not buy this car. A relative of mine did.
He bought it online. He has experience with new ones in Thailand and gets rid of them after 5 years. So I have to forgive him. My task has been simply to keep it going. When we first got it there was no dealer in the country.

The dealer wont rebuild the tranfercase but that maybe my next job.
I am thinking of getting a secondhand one in Australia and flying that in when I go to visit there. Then looking at repairing the other one. But we dont know what is broken inside do we? So I can spend a day taking it off and having a look. It is not hard to change over.

I used to have a 1978 BMW 520i in aust. That was a great car. Did unknown number of kilometers without an issue over 300,000kms. I gave it to some rallycross guys when it was 25 years old and they raced it. They made cars that lasted back then. Now they make cars that are pussy arse.

I have a landrover defender here too. I expect it will run forever with a little spanner work. Different intentions by the engineers. BMW now make luxury cars that last for 200,000kms and cost an arm and a leg. If you have the money waste it. They are a beautiful car to drive when they run. Mine is now off road while I wait for more parts. I will never buy one now I know all about them.
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