X5 3.0i Poor Start

[salenks]

Battery shows 12.3 when the car is off. Shows 14V when the car is running which means it is being charged.

I just had the battery professionally charged. Picked it up this morning. Shows 12.93V when car is off which is good. However, the car is still struggling to start, just couple hours after being taken off the charger.

Could it be that the Starter is going bad?

So you are saying that I should get OEM Genuine BMW parts and not those "High-Performance" coils. I think original parts are better but just wanted to hear other opinions. I will replace them with original parts.

I understand that you can't be sure the coils are going to solve my problem but if you say they should be replaced after 60,000 miles, then it is time. I have a little over 100,000. I show some misfires but thought it was because of LPG system.

Thanks for your help.

[SlickGT1]

Guys stop screwing terms up. There is no such thing as OEM genuine BMW. If it is genuine BMW, then it is OE. If it is a BMW manufacturer, hence the M, then it's OEM.

Could be plugs, worth a shot at 100k.

[ake53]

you need to check compression on each valve to see if any are bent. easy process and the tool is about 50. than you know which cylinder to replace.

you need to check your fuel it could be bad. easy way i found was to get under the car. find the fuel filter and pour so out. try igniting the fuel you poured out if it ignites than its good.

and final thing... is it could be your throttle body... find the schematics and clean it with a brush and the throttle body spray clean. (most common fix)

[salenks]

Thanks for your answer. I will have the compression checked.

Do you, or anyone else, by any chance have a diagram for throttle body so I can explain it to my mechanic as I can't translate that part in Serbian language.

Thank you.

[ake53]

Serbian! Im from Ukraine.

you can test the compression yourself, like I did.
heres the tool- Compression Test Kit

and the throttle body well here it is


Also read this thread it may lead you into the right direction.
Rough idle on cold start ups - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

[salenks]

Thank you Alex for your help and the photo. Are you in US or Ukraine? I am in Serbia (for the last 3 years). I may buy the tool once I have someone who can bring it to Serbia. For now, I will have a friend/mechanic (not really a BMW mechanic but can do some work on it) check the compression and clean the throttle body.

I ordered 3 ignition coils because they didn't have more original parts. I will get the rest as soon as they get some more.

I will also look into the link you gave me although, my problem is not related to cold start. I have seen that before but couldn't find anyone else having the same issue as me.


I will post my results as I check things.


Thanks again!

[SlickGT1]

Alex, that picture is so huge, it took me a minute to realize I had to scroll to the right. lol.

[J-FEEZY]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

Guys stop screwing terms up. There is no such thing as OEM genuine BMW. If it is genuine BMW, then it is OE. If it is a BMW manufacturer, hence the M, then it's OEM.

Could be plugs, worth a shot at 100k.

Thanks for clearing that up! I seem to have used the terms backwards. I have friends that would buy the oem because the price is way less and most likely its the same part from the dealer just not packed in the BMW logo box. I'm THICK I buy OE on stuff like that. just sayin.



OE vs OEM vs Aftermarket


OE (Original Equipment or Genuine BMW)
These are the parts that you get EXACTLY as if you are walking up to an authorized dealership and buying a part at the parts counter. (Example: Oxygen Sensor BMW Part # 11 78 1 735 499). These parts usually come in BMW marked packaging.


OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer)
OEM parts are parts that come from the same factory that makes your Original BMW parts, but they are boxed in their respective brands. (Example: Oxygen Sensor BOSCH Part #13231, which cross references to: BMW Part # 11 78 1 735 499). These parts are sold directly from the manufacturer to the suppliers or retailers and not through the BMW Dealer network, and usually means savings for the end consumer while still having the same OEM standards that the vehicle manufacturer specified.

[J-FEEZY]

Originally Posted by salenks

Thank you Alex for your help and the photo. Are you in US or Ukraine? I am in Serbia (for the last 3 years). I may buy the tool once I have someone who can bring it to Serbia. For now, I will have a friend/mechanic (not really a BMW mechanic but can do some work on it) check the compression and clean the throttle body.

I ordered 3 ignition coils because they didn't have more original parts. I will get the rest as soon as they get some more.

I will also look into the link you gave me although, my problem is not related to cold start. I have seen that before but couldn't find anyone else having the same issue as me.


I will post my results as I check things.


Thanks again!

You most likely can see if those coils fix your problem RIGHT NOW! you have to make sure you replace the coil where you got the misfire code(s) that you said you didn't have before but now say you've had. They are the easiest thing to replace. Look how the top of the coil cap on the new one swivels. go to your engine pop that cap upwards unplug the coil wire from the coil and and then pull that coil out. Sometimes it takes alot to pull those straight up and out. Getting leverage on those with your fingers is hard sometimes but it will come out. drop the new one where you took the old one out (push down) remember which ones you're replacing. Plug the coil wire back in and snap the cap back down and see if she purs like a kitty. If that fails then I would be rethinking what spark plugs are actually in there. If that fails then I would be checking compression too. but hopefully you don't have any hidden reasons of why you should of checked compression first.

one thing I noticed on this engine is they don't have like a 10mm bolt or something to hold the coils down like most cars and trucks I've seen. Just sayin.

remember you need to make sure you're replacing the coil or coils where you experienced your misfire codes or this will have you chasing your tail.

[J-FEEZY]

Originally Posted by salenks

Battery shows 12.3 when the car is off. Shows 14V when the car is running which means it is being charged.

I just had the battery professionally charged. Picked it up this morning. Shows 12.93V when car is off which is good. However, the car is still struggling to start, just couple hours after being taken off the charger.

Could it be that the Starter is going bad?

So you are saying that I should get OEM Genuine BMW parts and not those "High-Performance" coils. I think original parts are better but just wanted to hear other opinions. I will replace them with original parts.

I understand that you can't be sure the coils are going to solve my problem but if you say they should be replaced after 60,000 miles, then it is time. I have a little over 100,000. I show some misfires but thought it was because of LPG system.

Thanks for your help.

Your battery is fine. if you were having a problem with charging (which you're not) then putting another battery in there and experiencing the same problem would point to the alternator. just sayin.

worry about your starter later. once the car is "started" the starter is not the issue that your engine is running like crap.

I'm saying NOW which I got backwards earlier that the coils on the link you posted with a great marketing description are probably the same ones at ecs for $33.64 minus the shiny red cap. Do I know this for a fact? NO! Then I said earlier that I'm "THICK" I like to buy OEM which is WRONG! I should have said "I like to buy OE or Genuine BMW on stuff like ignition coils" ANY OF THOSE COILS FROM EITHER OF THE TWO WEBSITES MENTIONED WILL WORK GREAT!

I only say it would not be wasted money to replace coils at 60,000 MILES because with my 2005 m54 3.0i at 77,000 miles cylinder #3 coil was bad. ALSO I have read SO MANY post of people explaining the same symptoms I had and blaming everything from the torque converter to the DISA valve and so on for this problem. Every thing I had read was never a concrete fix for any of the symptoms I or they had. The ones that did come back and said the problem was fixed were people that didn't have their car back and took it to an Independent mechanic and who knows what really happened because you're taking someone else word for it. Just sayin.

damn I'm a loser posting 3 post in a row lol