Cylinder head oil check valve

[PalmSpringsE534.6]

All,

Can anyone tell me where the oil check valve is on my 2003 4.6is? I've gotten a few different answers but I think it's installed in the head and is not accessible from outside the block like other engines are. Can anyone verify for me? I think mine is failing as for the last few days on a cold start it sounds like the oil has drained down to the pan as the top end takes a moment to get re-lubricated and is a tad noisy. GRRR.

[andrewwynn]

There's two. They are in the block inside the chain guide covers. I don't remember what parts have to come out to get to them but I think it's between the oil distribution unit that brings the oil to the cam and the block. So: it's definitely an investment to get to the valve. But possibly you can test with just the valve cover removed. If the problem on the bank one you might be able to determine something through the oil fill port.

[andrewwynn]

Oh: the sound you described doesn't sound like what you think it is. It sounds like your chain tensioner is shot.

If my engine did what you just described I would park the car and order an OEM chain tensioner and replace before I turn the key again.

[Purplefade]

Originally Posted by andrewwynn

Oh: the sound you described doesn't sound like what you think it is. It sounds like your chain tensioner is shot.

If my engine did what you just described I would park the car and order an OEM chain tensioner and replace before I turn the key again.

chain tensioner is definitely a solid bet and usually causes what you are describing, it's also a pretty inexpensive part in the grand scheme of the X5 and relatively easy and straight forward to replace, which is also another oddity for the X5


I also agree with AW on that I wouldn't start it again until I was absolutely sure what the problem is, a chain tensioner is considerably cheaper than a rebuild...

[andrewwynn]

I very recently caught this exact condition on an 01 M62. Would rattle pretty obvious at start up until enough oil pressure builds to overcome the worn tensioner. New tensioner and stopped It completely.

M62 when the tensioner gets worn it doesn't pull the chain tight enough and it will slap. This will break the brittle chain guides into a thousand pieces.

If you catch it in time you save $1200 in parts and 30 man hours of labor.

[PalmSpringsE534.6]

All,

As always good info. I will have the tensioner replace ASAP.

Mike

[andrewwynn]

Not sure if any different with 4.4 but it's a trick to get that sucker out/in: the angle is such that a deep well socket will not clear the AC compressor and short socket won't reach over the center of the tensioner.

I have a through hole socket set that by chance with extension fits perfect but a medium depth 19mm or 3/4" socket with short extension works perfectly. This is done by feel I don't think you can touch and look at the same time.



I happened to bump into this sketch two days ago by complete chance that I drew to show the aforementioned M62 4.4 how to remove the tensioner. Blue are the chain guide cover and AC compressor view from front.

[Purplefade]

Would a “wiggle” socket work? And you’re right, much easier on the 4.4.


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[EODguy]

A pass through ratchet set is a lifesaver TBH

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[andrewwynn]

Originally Posted by Purplefade

Would a “wiggle” socket work? And you’re right, much easier on the 4.4.


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You need either the offset of the thin extension which the wiggle would do but the main issue is reaching over the hump in the middle of the tensioner