Misfire on all cylinders on one side

[mrathell]

Well before posting it on Craigslist 'as-is', I decided to pull the codes.

I cleared the codes after installing the new valve cover gaskets and intake manifold gaskets.

originally I consistently pulled: P0300, P0305, P0306, P0307 & P0308. (misfires on all cylinders for driver side)

now I'm pulling: P0300 (multi misfire), P0306 (cylinder 6), P0308 (cylinder 8), P0155 (O2 sensor heater bank 2 sensor 1), P0159 (O2 sensor heater bank 2 sensor 1) and P0173 (fuel trim bank 2)

only 2 of the cylinders are throwing misfire codes this time.

this may not mean anything, but i thought i would share.

[TwinTurboGTR]

That's a shame bud. I mean doing a quick count, you must have spent $400-$500 on parts. Only to sell it as-is on CL. Hopefully you aren't taking a bath. Your original post state you got the X for a "really good price" so hopefully you are making out a little bit or at least even.

Hell, if you are dead set on selling it, and you have the old parts, I would slap them back in and take the new ones out and sell those separately. That is just me though. I forget, were you the one that said you were going to fix it no matter what? Or was that someone else. The time you joined, like 5 or 6 new members popped up with a 4.4i so I am getting confused.

[mrathell]

Nope, I would of never said anything like I would fix it no matter what. I love cars but I'm not one of those guys who pour tons of money into a car that he will never ever be able to recoup.

I got it for a good enough price where as even after the money I put into it, I should still walk away with more than I invested.

I do love it and I will hate to see it go.

Thanks everyone for your time and help.

[mrathell]

Originally Posted by Skyline

Try cleaning every ground point you can find on the engine.

OK, call me hardheaded.

Today I unplugged all of the ignition coil wires from the driver side while the car was running and the backfiring stopped (as expected).

I then plugged each one back in until the backfiring started again. The backfiring would only happen when I plugged the #6 cylinder back in.

So at this point I noticed that the ground wire from the head and the ground wire from the #7 ignition coil were connected to the screw post for the #6 ignition coil. Now I'm thinking about what Skyline suggested.

So I took both ground wires off of #6 and connect them to #7.

I started the car up and its still missing but it doesn't backfire anymore and I'm only pulling one code now......P0306 (misfire on #6). The X5 is running better than anytime I've owned it.

The check engine light sometimes even goes off for a few minutes.

Whats funny is that when I first got the X5, the only misfire code I was getting was for #6, but after I changed the water pump and the ignition coil for #6, I started getting misfires codes on all driver side cylinders.

So after all of that I seem to be back to absolute square one. But this time I feel there is a glimmer of hope.

Now I need to determine the true cause of the misfire on #6.

[SlickGT1]

Wow. Yea I had a feeling something was wrong with your compression and leak down tests.

Why don't you run a new dedicated ground straight from the Jump connection under the hood to the coils. Even if just to test. You don't have to make it look nice, just some wire.

[Skyline]

At this point, I think it would be worth taking it to a good BMW specialist and getting at least a diagnosis.

[mrathell]

Originally Posted by SlickGT1

Wow. Yea I had a feeling something was wrong with your compression and leak down tests.

Why don't you run a new dedicated ground straight from the Jump connection under the hood to the coils. Even if just to test. You don't have to make it look nice, just some wire.

I tried that as soon as I arrived home from work but no change.

[mrathell]

I started pulling a P0204 code today relating to the #4 fuel injector. I believe it was related to me putting the fuel rail back on. so I adjusted the injector plug and cleared that one right away.

[mrathell]

***update****

I took my x5 to an Indy shop today and this is what I've been told thus far:

He said I have a bad vanos. I can't quote him word for word and I may screw up some of the details be here's what I gathered, he was saying:

- that the bad vanos was preventing the valves from closing, they were stuck open.
- the injectors were giving fuel and there was spark.
- he would need to change the vanos
- 9.5 hours of labor
- currently at at least $800 for labor but still tallying it up and this cost doesn't include the cost of the parts.

does this sound like an accurate diagnoses? Does the current cost seems reasonable?
I'm comfortable with working on cars, so is this something a shade tree mechanic like myself can do?

I tried finding a DIY on vanos replacement but I haven't been successful yet.

I don't even know what the vanos looks like or where to find it on the engine.

[amacman]

I personally do not understand why the vanos would prevent valves closing unless it has seriously worn and I don`t even know if it could cause this problem if worn .

The vanos is on the intake camshafts on the M62 motor and adjusts the camshaft timing 20 degrees at some point in the rev range . The drive sprocket adjusts on the camshaft by a screw thread . It is usually hydraulic , oil pressure adjusts the sprocket , regulated by a solenoid .
The parts can be seen on realoem RealOEM.com * BMW E53 X5 4.4i timing gear timing chain top - VANOS

BMW TIS will show you the repair procedure BMW TIS Online • 5' E53 • X5 4.4i (M62) Offroad • Engine • variable camshaft timing