WTB/Rent Subframe Bushing Tool

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by steelheader

just drop the sub frame and beat it out !!! Its a great workout ,a large pointed drift and abig hammer or air chizel works.Then take threaded rod and a ball joint press kit from autozone to get the new one in. Start at the top and it breaks up in pieces then falls out .I wasnt spending 300 bucks on a tool to use once .Where theres a will theres a way !!!!

what about Sawzall and cut the old ones out in various parts? I'm thinkign about a subframe bushing DIY, all i need is to get the exhaust hangers bent out of the way with a torch.

Would it work to just use a jack, and a frozen (overnight to shrink the rubber some) and lubed up bushing and just press it into place with a jack?

[SlickGT1]

What no pics?

[epdarks]

While we're on the subject of rear subframe bushings...

Who are the players in this segment?
OEM = ~$200
Powerflex = $450+
Phoenix Motorsport = ?
K-Mac = ?

[Cisc0]

Originally Posted by epdarks

While we're on the subject of rear subframe bushings...

Who are the players in this segment?
OEM = ~$200
Powerflex = $450+
Phoenix Motorsport = ?
K-Mac = ?

Myele = $140

[davintosh]

Originally Posted by Cisc0

Myele = $140

I got mine (Meyles) through Blunttech.com for $32.90 ea; $131.60 with free shipping. The only other brands I found that were designed to fit the X5 was PowerFlex and Febi, and my parts guy recommended against Febi. PowerFlex makes for an easier install, but I couldn't get past the price tag.

I've also heard of people that take the old worn-out bushings (from other models anyway) and rebuild them using moldable polyurethane kits. Given the size of these bushings, the cost of the poly kit, and the fact that you still need to extract the bushings to rebuild them, I'm not sure that there would be much benefit to going that route.

[epdarks]

Blunttech... those guys rock. Thanks for your input, Davin.

I am going to go with the Meyles. My only question is what other stuff am I going to do "while I'm in there". Right now I am doing the rear diff bushings and rear subframe bushings, as well as the guibos and possible re-build the driveshaft if it needs it.

What other suspension components tend to fail in the rear of the truck?

[davintosh]

Originally Posted by epdarks

Blunttech... those guys rock. Thanks for your input, Davin.

I am going to go with the Meyles. My only question is what other stuff am I going to do "while I'm in there". Right now I am doing the rear diff bushings and rear subframe bushings, as well as the guibos and possible re-build the driveshaft if it needs it.

What other suspension components tend to fail in the rear of the truck?

I don't have the links right now, but there are a couple of other posts around here that talk about other wear parts in the rear end that lead to excessive camber on the rear wheels and rapid wear on the inside edges of the rear tires from the toe being out of spec from worn bushings. Mine has that going on, so I also ordered (from BluntTech) Lemfoerder parts to replace the likely culprits for that. Going with the shotgun approach; some are potentially still ok, but I don't see in the PO's records that they have been done in the past, so they're probably due.

Ball joint 33326767748 2 @ $37.10 $74.20
INTEGRAL LINK 33326770749 2 @ $34.20 $68.40
Guiding suspension link 33326774796 2 @ $55.54 $111.08
Wishbone, left 33326770859 1 @ $91.66 $91.66
Wishbone, right 33326770860 1 @ $86.55 $86.55

Total of $431.89 for all of it. Prices are from Steve @ Blunttech; YMMV.
Still haven't figured out why the left wishbone costs more than the right.

[epdarks]

Originally Posted by davintosh

I don't have the links right now, but there are a couple of other posts around here that talk about other wear parts in the rear end that lead to excessive camber on the rear wheels and rapid wear on the inside edges of the rear tires from the toe being out of spec from worn bushings. Mine has that going on, so I also ordered (from BluntTech) Lemfoerder parts to replace the likely culprits for that. Going with the shotgun approach; some are potentially still ok, but I don't see in the PO's records that they have been done in the past, so they're probably due.

Ball joint 33326767748 2 @ $37.10 $74.20
INTEGRAL LINK 33326770749 2 @ $34.20 $68.40
Guiding suspension link 33326774796 2 @ $55.54 $111.08
Wishbone, left 33326770859 1 @ $91.66 $91.66
Wishbone, right 33326770860 1 @ $86.55 $86.55

Total of $431.89 for all of it. Prices are from Steve @ Blunttech; YMMV.
Still haven't figured out why the left wishbone costs more than the right.

Big ups. I will likely order a very similar set of parts as I don't want to drop the rear end EVER AGAIN.

What year/model is your X? I assume all (pre and post facelift) use the same suspension components?

[steelheader]

I wouldnt try cutting them out ,the metal part in the middle drops out or You just push it with a screw driver . Then all You have is the rubber coated pipe left in the sub frame its made of pot metal very cheap stuff.The sub frames alot stronger its a pain but coneing the top of it then pb blaster then driving the drift down the side and they drop out .I tried for a week to come up with a tool either the threads stripped on the rod and nuts or the pipe had to much of a angle on it and was cocked . 500 bucks for poly bushings is nuts mine lasted for 200000miles .I got 4 bushings for a hundred bucks on ebay .You might be able to sawsall them out but I would be affraid of tearing into the sub frame .My blades were all kinda dull so I didnt even try .If You make 2 cuts it might work better then beating them out!!!!The exhust hanger I just put a gas pipe on it and bent it out of the way and bent it back .

[davintosh]

Originally Posted by steelheader

... Then all You have is the rubber coated pipe left in the sub frame its made of pot metal very cheap stuff. The sub frames alot stronger its a pain but coneing the top of it then pb blaster then driving the drift down the side and they drop out...

Let me get this straight; after the center part of the bushing dropped out, you knocked in the top of the "pipe" then pounded a drift punch in to collapse it the rest of the way? If that works -- with the subframe on the car -- that's brilliant! I was thinking the outside "pipe" of the bushing was steel, but after seeing that, I went and checked the one I got out, and sure enough it's either aluminum or pot metal. No wonder the puller's arms couldn't get a grip on it!

Just an update to my earlier posts on this; I fabbed up a tool similar to the one I mentioned earlier, except it used a 1/4" steel follower plate pulled through by a 7/16" threaded rod. I got one of the bushings out after about 2 hours of wrangling, but it chewed up the threads on the rod pretty badly, and bent the top of the bridge a bit. Getting the new bushing in went ok; I used a large C-clamp to get it started (hoping it would get it all the way in) but ended up putting a jackstand under the bushing and a wood block between the subframe & body, then easing the floor jack down to let the weight of the car push it the rest of the way in. I had to also apply a little heat to the outside of the subframe can to get it seated.

After all that, I'd pretty much convinced myself that buying the expensive tool was the way to go, but with the new knowledge that the outside sleeve on the bushing isn't steel, that changes things a bit. If I can knock them out the way steelheader mentioned, or use a saw on them, that might be preferable... Back to the books for now.