|
|
|
|
||||||||||
| Xoutpost server transfer and maintenance is occurring.... |
| Xoutpost is currently undergoing a planned server migration.... stay tuned for new developments.... sincerely, the management |
 |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#21
02-12-2018, 11:17 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
__________________
06 X5 3.0 Auto ZSP, 06 Z4M, 06 Z4, 06 E83 X3 
|
| Sponsored Links | |
|
|
|
|
#22
02-12-2018, 12:27 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
A tis bulletin is o.k., but a video on how to use the tool to remove the seal is priceless. The trans is not in a BMW but this is the correct procedure for using the tool.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgjREMpHaNs More video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0c8OXpZyuBo
__________________
2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD
|
|
#23
08-15-2018, 11:17 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Finally replaced it today. Seal number is 8644709!
I didn't need a extractor tool in my case...actually the seal had moved towards the selector rod actuator by itself and I guess this has caused the leak. The seal had totally hardened out The most difficult part was getting the new seal in place. Using a 14mm socket with the help of a lever against the 4wd drive axle is the best option in my eye. Pushing by hand or hammering did not lead to anywhere.
|
|
#24
08-24-2018, 04:59 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
And it looks like @ScottZHP's post #15 is for the wrong seal, and his post #19 is for the correct one, right? 
__________________
2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014
|
|
#25
08-31-2018, 11:36 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I did this the other day on my 2001 E53 3.0i, with the 5L40-E/GM5 (A5S 390R) 5-speed auto transmission made by GM, with 186k miles.
The correct seal was the one mentioned in post #19, GM # 8644709, imported from Detroit. And I also (needed and) bought a special tool - GM transmission seal tool, Evercraft # 776-9250. I got the tool locally at NAPA, for about $8: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7769250 and the seal on Amazon for about $5. On the tool: I would not be surprised if that GM transmission seal tool works on all 100 zillion GM transmissions ever made. I did not see any others, and the labeling simply says GM transmission ... Encouraged by the post above, I first made a quick attempt to get the seal out without using a tool. Would not have been possible without the special tool. Not worth the risk of scratching the Aluminum bore. The tool has 3 parts. Looking at the photo in the packaging below, the thing on the left side is just a thick steel cylindrical tube for pressing the new bushing in. A properly sized socket should do at least as well. On the right side is the black steel sleeve with a screw screwed into it. Due to the driveshaft being in the way, I did not use the screw at all, other than to try and fail and decide not to use it. So of those 3 parts, the only special one you really need is the black sleeve. It is a hair over the 1/2" shaft diameter so it fits over the AT selector rod shaft, and then has a very thin wall at the top so it can fit between the rod and the old bushing. And coarse threads there are to dig into the rubber (or soft steel, I guess) bushing, so it can be pulled out. Some notes on the job: Tool had to fit over a ~0.503" diameter shaft, and was about 0.501" ID, as I received it, so I reamed the top portion slightly with a 1/2" drill bit. Difficult due to close proximity of driveshaft there. I did not use the bolt part of the tool, just the threaded sleeve. I screwed the tool in using a 5/8" ratcheting wrench, kept going until I could see the bushing was being pulled out. So I knew it had a good grip on it at that point. The tool is very thin walled up at the tip, and has coarse threads, so it is meant to slip in between the steel shaft and the rubber seal, and the threads are meant to grip into the rubber. This is when the screw part of the tool is then supposed to screw in on the backside, and pull the tool+bushing out together by pushing on the end of the steel shaft. But this would have been very difficult due to the driveshaft being in the way. So I just wiggled and pulled the tool out and the bushing came out nicely. The tool to press the new seal in was not great. A socket might have been better. A piece of the edge of the rubber got clipped when installing it, but should not be an issue. Again, it was difficult due to the driveshaft being in the way. Afterwards, there was still in-out play of the shaft, but no more leaks.    
__________________
2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 Last edited by oldskewel; 09-01-2018 at 02:37 PM.
|
|
#26
09-01-2018, 10:42 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
So I also need to do this job, just turned 168k. I bought both the Transmax and Timken seals to compare. Both are about $3 at Rockauto.
The ID and OD are identical (0.5in, 0.75in) , and both are metal clad. The difference is the seal depth. The Transmax seal (84072A) is about twice as deep as the Timken and is rubber coated. Will be using the deeper version. Transmax looks identical to the AC Delco/GM version.
__________________
12 E70 3.5i xDrive 03 E46 330i ZHP 01 E53 3.0i 98 E36 323is 12 Audi A4 Quattro 79 Triumph Spitfire 73 MGB
|
|
#27
09-01-2018, 01:28 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
The seal on mine was the part number you cited in post #19, looked exactly like the stock pic I posted in post #24, and came in the packaging I showed in post #25. And the one that came out looked just like it, except the exposed surface was hard and cracked and came of in little crumbly pieces. Then the rest of it came out in one piece.
__________________
2001 X5 3.0i, 203k miles, AT, owned since 2014 Last edited by oldskewel; 09-01-2018 at 02:33 PM.
|
|
#28
09-30-2018, 07:50 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I managed to get my seal out with the Evercraft tool but I had to hammer it in there before it grabbed enough. I took my drive shaft out completely BTW.
But I destroyed the new seal trying to get it installed with the tool the kit came with. I just ordered two more. Just so I'm not going insane, does the seal go in 'cup-side' first toward the vehicle centerline, or with the cup facing outward? I'm pretty sure it's the former, but it sure goes on over the shaft a lot easier via the latter.
|
|
#29
09-30-2018, 07:53 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
The top of the seal as shown in the picture should be facing out. Put some oil on the lip of the seal as well as the circumference of the seal, and make sure the bore that you are inserting the seal into is CLEAN.
__________________
2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD
|
|
#30
09-30-2018, 08:15 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Quote:
Yup that's what I figured... And I did clean the bore and shaft very well and used a touch of red grease, but it just did not want to install over the shaft... Well, I got two more tries coming my way via Amazon prime. What a pain. And I thought the hard part was going to be removing the front drive shaft lol.
__________________
2005 BMW E53 X5 3.0i Sport (Sterling Grey) w/ full OEM Aero 2001 BMW E53 X5 3.0i Sport (Oxford Green) SOLD 2006 MINI Cooper S R53 JCW Checkmate (Space Blue) w/Aero 2006 MINI Cooper S R53 JCW (Space Blue) w/Aero 2006 MINI Cooper S R53 JCW (Space Blue) Last edited by Chamberlin; 10-01-2018 at 12:29 AM.
|
|
| Bookmarks |
|
|
|
|
Linear Mode
