Front Wheel Bearing R&R

[andrewwynn]

The rod that comes with is 3/4-16. I went through three of them while replacing two bearings as 3/4" is not big enough to support the forces involved. I think the fine pitch rod with the kit and the better quality replacements I used may have only been grade 5. If you get a grade 8 bolt it can supply over 15T of force. That will still be on the edge of possible as I calculated close to 35,000# to remove the bearing with MAP gas to heat the carrier to 250°F.

I bought a 3rd replacement rod (3/4) but I only use that for the smaller sizes: I drilled out the biggest plates to 1" and bought a couple 1" grade 8 bolts, nuts, washers and an oil infused bronze thrust bushing. Combined with my big impact wrench it can press about 28T makes the job loud but almost effortless.

I bought my copy of the HF bearing press about half price because some idiot stripped the rod and returned it. I was already planning to ditch the rod and upgrade to 1" so that worked well for me!

Somebody may make a kit with just the right size needed for the x5 bearing so you don't need all the parts.

I had my brother drill out the large holes since he works at a machine shop so I don't know how difficult it would be to drill out the holes but the 3/4" rod is right at the edge of possible and a 1" rod is double the strength needed for the job and made the last bearing a breeze to change.

You need to remove the inner race from the hub which most people will cut a diagonal groove with a right angle grinder or Dremel and break it with a chisel.

The first time won't be "easy" but well worth the effort. I've replaced 3/4 of wife's and one of mine so far. Two with 3/4" bolts and long handled ratchet (I used 2" PVC pipe much more comfortable on my hands than steel) the last two I had my upgraded 1" bolt and what a difference. Bolt looks unused after pressing three bearings.

Based on my guess that the fine pitch rods were only grade 5, it does greatly increase the chance you can copy the previous poster success with a grade 8 3/4-10 bolt. It takes 300 ft·lb of torque to get the rated 30,100# of force so plan accordingly. Grease well buy a couple spare bolts and nuts if you stick with 3/4 size.

The kit pays for itself with one bearing since it will usually cost $40-60 to have a shop press out and in a replacement bearing and another $100 for a proper alignment if you remove the hub carrier to take to the shop. I'm very glad I bought mine. I borrowed a friend mechanic's press for the first bearing and had to buy him a replacement threaded rod as I was converting the threaded rod into cylinders each use. I was able to get the bearing out in spite by stacking plates to use a fresh part of the rod that wasn't stripped over and over.

If you know of a shop that can drill out the plates to 1" I highly recommend copying me and bump the bigger plates up to 1" holes.

It takes 700 ft·lb to maximize the force of a 1" lubricated fine pitch bolt but with any luck you will only need 400, something doable with hand power.

I couldn't remove my axle nut on the second bearing I did with a 4# hammer and 24" breaker bar so I bought the big Milwaukee impact wrench that can supply 700 ft·lb of torque and that is close to but less than the max torque spec for a 1" bolt so it can't strip the bolt but will supply about 56,000# of force quite reliably and with minimal effort (just holding the nut from turning while running the impact wrench)

7/10 difficulty with 3/4" bolt. 4/10 difficulty with 1" bolt. (doing the rear bearing was 2/10 difficulty I almost laughed when I watched the bearing get sucked onto the hub. )

Oh: to remove the hub I used some long 14-1.5 bolts and some metal angle, drive the bolts through the lug holes in the hub into the carrier knuckle (with the metal angle as a shim). This will destroy the dust cap so I usually cut that off in the process and buy a new one when I buy the bearing. For the rear I used a slide hammer kit that I rented from Auto part store. That would probably work on the front but I don't like to hammer on all the ball joints it is cheap insurance to spend $10 on a new dust cap.