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#11
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thanks for an awesome post |
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#12
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Okay, so making a start with pulling apart the various sub-assemblies.....
First the A & E clutch assembly, which includes the front simple epicyclic This assembly comes apart by simply releasing the snap ring which holds the B-clutch hub to the A-clutch drum The various components which make up the assembly can be seen below. On the right is the E-clutch hub which drives the carrier of the rear Ravigneaux epicyclic – ZF call this the intermediate shaft. The drum with the holes in it is the A-clutch hub which, through the hollow shaft, drives the rear sun gear of the Ravigneaux unit. So here is the A-clutch assembly with the front simple epicyclic attached The clutch pack slides out after removing the snap ring and this plastic component is an oil catcher that channels fluid down the centre of the planet pins to lubricate the planet gear bearings It took me a little while to fathom out how to detach the epicyclic carrier and sun gear from the A-clutch. Although you probably can’t make it out in the photo there’s a clip which holds the carrier in place and it is removed by levering it out of its groove using a small screwdriver through the gaps down the side of two of the planet gears The clip can be seen more clearly below which shows the epicyclic once removed and this is how the A-clutch assembly now looks The clutch piston return spring then has to be compressed in order to remove the retaining circlip and I was pleasantly surprised to find that one of the tools I’d had made up for stripping down the 5HP24 clutches fitted this one fine So the oil dam plate can be removed together with the circlip revealing the clutch piston return spring To remove the piston it’s easiest to place the A-clutch drum back on to the oil pump assembly and then apply air pressure into the feed hole The piston then pops out and these are all the components that make up the A-clutch and front epicyclic assembly Moving now onto the E-clutch assembly. The E-clutch assembly is part of the ‘input shaft’ of the transmission which is driven directly by the torque converter turbine The photo shows that the annulus gear of the front simple epicyclic is EB welded to the E-clutch drum and so is permanently driven by the transmission input shaft Once the clutch pack had been lifted out of the drum, I was again pleasantly surprised to find that one of my 5HP24 clutch spring compression tools fitted the E-clutch spring retainer perfectly, allowing me to remove the circlip without difficulty and then the spring and piston could be removed Phil |
#13
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...can't wait to see who is the guilty guy... |
#14
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Me too. Dying with anticipation. Amazing pictures. Just amazing.
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2006 4.8is, Black on White. SOLD Sniff Sniff. 2017 F85 x5m, Black on Red. BEAST MODE "The older we grow the greater becomes our wonder at how much ignorance one can contain without bursting one's clothes." - Mark Twain Unlock OBC post 5 |
#15
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Amazing photo and instructions, i must say I learned a lot, can't wait for the entire post.
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We never have problems, we always need solutions |
#16
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I don't think i have ever seen anyone explain in such detail. Awesome, subscribed.
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#17
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, thanks for the tutorial.
Steve Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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Garage '05 X5 4.8is Imola Red/Black '02 330Ci Conv. Electric Red/Tan '01 M5 Lemans Blue/Black/Silverstone '00 528 Electric Red/Grey '07 BMW 328iX Silver/Black '82 Mercedes 380SL Signal Red/Grey '73 VW Beetle Convertible (restored) '17 Honda Odyssey '98 Volvo V70 GLT '94 Ford Explorer XLT '11 Honda Accord V6 Manual Coupe (bought Fall 2020 from American Honda with 250 miles) '98 Volvo V70 T5 (project) |
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