Meyle HD bushing on 4.4i with 20inch staggered

NYCSterling · #1 12-16-2012, 11:57 PM

I just replaced my thrust arm bushing with the Meyle HD.
I went to an indie shop in my area.

A few things that occurred:
1- the mechanic took out the bolt by the bushing first.. then proceeded to hammer on the balljoint end. After about 10 wacks, he then decided to loosed the 2 bolts and disconnected the arm.

2- he replaced the 2 bushings using a press, BUT i noticed one of them was not in as it should in the control arm. It was not evenly pressed in. It had to go a few mm more,noticeable by the eye.

3- He then tried to perform an alignment. The initial readings were all messed up.
I am running 20s staggered on the 2006 4.41. I am not sure if this was the issue, since they computer may be expecting 18s.
He decided just to adjust the TOE for the front and leave it at that. He did make some adjustments to get them to be the same.

SO, the final issue is: steering wheel shudder when i go over 60 mph. Pulls slightly to the right.

I don't know where to start to troubleshoot.
- hammering on arm
- uneven left bushing in arm
- bad alignment

I also have a concern about the bolts reused for the ball joint end of the arm.

Thoughts fellow X5ers?

Ricky Bobby · #2 12-17-2012, 09:30 AM

Go to a better alignment/tire balancing shop.

1) make sure your wheel lugs are torqued properly, 101 ft lbs

2) did he do final torque on the thrust arm when the vehicle was on the ground? if not you will have problems.

3) did whacking on the ball joints damage them in any way? i replaced mine with my thrust arms to avoid the issue.

4) roadforce balance on a hunter 9700 machine will help the vibrations over 60 mph, car pulls to the right he doesnt have the alignment right yet. don't worry about the staggered 20s, once he plugs the specs into the computer it will give an option for 20" wheel sizing.

make sure he makes the toe as close to neutral as possible, .01 if possible, NOTE THAT THIS IS OUTSIDE OF THE HUNTER MACHINES SUPPLIED BMW SPECS, BMW SPECS FOR TOO MUCH TOE, then your staggered tires will have even life!

NYCSterling · #3 12-17-2012, 11:18 PM

appreciate the response man. I am in search of a good indie shop in my area.
I am even considering going to the dealer.. but i think that may end up being expensive.

NYCSterling · #4 12-17-2012, 11:21 PM

one more thing, do they sell the arm with the Meyle bushing already installed?

Skyline · #5 12-18-2012, 01:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NYCSterling

one more thing, do they sell the arm with the Meyle bushing already installed?

Yes. (I think if you buy it that way, it also comes with the ball joint). But there's nothing wrong with changing the bushing; and a good bit cheaper. You just need to make sure it's:
A-Lined up to the mark
B-Centered and,
C-No pressure put on center part of bushing when pressing in. This requires a pressing "cup" that's pretty exact in terms of size. I have a special tool from MIS for this that can be used with the arm on the car.
D-Bolt in bushing is torqued while car is on the ground and suspension is settled.

Otherwise...it's a do-over.

NYCSterling · #6 12-20-2012, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skyline

Yes. (I think if you buy it that way, it also comes with the ball joint). But there's nothing wrong with changing the bushing; and a good bit cheaper. You just need to make sure it's:
A-Lined up to the mark
B-Centered and,
C-No pressure put on center part of bushing when pressing in. This requires a pressing "cup" that's pretty exact in terms of size. I have a special tool from MIS for this that can be used with the arm on the car.
D-Bolt in bushing is torqued while car is on the ground and suspension is settled.

Otherwise...it's a do-over.

yeah man.. I am feeling like a do-over also. I do not have that warm and fuzzy feeling with this work.

Roadkill · #7 12-18-2012, 12:09 AM

Check with ECS tuning, they may have the arm with the bushing already pressed in.

NYCSterling · #8 12-18-2012, 12:27 AM

will do, thanks.

Skyline · #9 12-18-2012, 01:38 AM

When you say car pulls to the right, is that while driving/coasting or under braking? Or both?

As far as re-using the ball joint bolts, I think that's OK as long as Locktite is used. I just did these arms myself, and used new ball joints. The new hex bolts that came with the new ball joints were so completely crappy, (the hex holes were so shallow, they were impossible to put any torque on them), I re-used the reverse torx bolts that were on there.

NYCSterling · #10 12-20-2012, 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skyline

When you say car pulls to the right, is that while driving/coasting or under braking? Or both?

As far as re-using the ball joint bolts, I think that's OK as long as Locktite is used. I just did these arms myself, and used new ball joints. The new hex bolts that came with the new ball joints were so completely crappy, (the hex holes were so shallow, they were impossible to put any torque on them), I re-used the reverse torx bolts that were on there.

it pulls a tad when driving.. braking is ok...