Coolant Temp Overheating

[X5SHARMA]

Originally Posted by Skyline

Are you using regular green Prestone? If so, you really should flush the whole system and fill with the proper mix of BMW blue coolant and distilled water.

Not the regular green one but an orange one that I picked up at Sears when all of this began. But at home now I do have a backup gallon of BMW coolant and i can definitely flush it all out and refill with it. I was thinking about doing that also but I will definitely do that now first thing in the morning.

[Skyline]

Originally Posted by X5SHARMA

Alright so i've followed all the bleeding procedures.

Truck was cold when I started so it took approximately 10-15 minutes to come up to proper temperature. I have uploaded 2 videos to youtube and checkout the link. At first I would say it took some time for the expansion tank throwing out coolant inside. Every so often the bleed screw and the expansion tank would let out coolant as if breathing.

After running this process for 25 minutes the coolant expansion tank had stopped letting out coolant shooting through. This entire process ive had the bleeder screw on.

The fan was set to the lowest point and set to 90. Once the gauge reached the middle temp it was hot in the car so the heater is working.

Now my question is that do I need to keep doing this to get all the air out? The bleeder screw is still spewing bubbles out and a little bit of coolant. I drove around the block and the engine sounds good - its shifting well but I have not taken it on to the highway yet because I am not sure if thats gonna put a lot of strain on that bleeder screw. Once parked I opened the hood up again and checked the bleeder screw - thats the second video of it spewing out bubbles and coolant.

Please tell me if you think this may be another problem. There is no leak from anywhere else. I am wondering if the hose that has the bleeder screw may have bad threads on it. But then again the old bleeder screw looked good and so did the washer on it. Again all of this is fairly new within the last 3 months. I am sure when its cold again the coolant level should drop from the amount it threw out but that I can fill again or just do a total flush again but I want that air out and im wondering why there is still air coming out of the screw.

Bleeding
BLEEDING X5 - YouTube

Post Bleeding
POST BLEEDING - YouTube

thanks

I know that you can fill the coolant in a X5 without an Air Lift as Slick confirmed. (Some cars are virtually impossible to get filled without an Air Lift...like certain VWs). But this post really shows the difference. It takes about 2-3 minutes to fill the car with no air pockets with an Air Lift. For a pro, time is money. For a non-pro like me....I just like to make my life as easy as possible.

[Elvis 3.0]

Since you already 'corrupted' the system with prestone (using the term mildly) I wouldn't bother getting the BMW coolant in until you are definitive on the problem being solved. That is, what's done is done and you should only be using BMW coolant. But since you aren't sure the problem is solved, I'd wait until you are sure the problem is fixed at this point to bother to 1) do a complete flush and 2) use only BMW coolant on the re-fill. That being said I'll just throw this out there to the group and it may seem dumb, but is there a bleeder screw washer? I didn't think there was one on the bleeder. If I am correct, and again not sure I am, that may be your problem, or at least one of them. I am posting without checking the manual so could be way off. As far as your hose disconnecting this sit is riddled with hundreds of people that were positive that things were tightened properly or to spec only for them to fly off- it just happens. Anyway replace the expansion tank so you can rule that out. They inevitably fail anyway at some point. And in many cases you can't tell they have failed -- threads off, small crack at seem only evident under pressure etc..

Also, since you are knee deep in a coolant issue it may help you to observe a few other YouTube videos on BMW coolant re-fill for perspective if you have not already. Sometime you pick up on that one thing that you may have overlooked, even thought it is simple/straight forward. ( the car experts, and mr. bmw from recollection have a few, but search on YouTube and you will definitely find it)

[SlickGT1]

Originally Posted by X5SHARMA

Yah it's a 3.0. Did you get a chance to see the videos? The bleeder screw is closer and I'm debating whether I should now throw in coolant or water? Because I have already gone through a gallon of the Preston and water. But I'm also losing alot with it spewing out. Should i fill it up with water and then Should I drive it a bit and then open up the bleeder? I have also not done this on an incline. The screw is new and there was still bubbles and coolant coming out of there. It comes out in intervals. Also when I unscrew it should I leave space or remove the entire screw? Because it keeps throwing out coolant. The reason I didn't do it with the car off is because I didn't want battery to die and the other video I posted showed car on.

Wait the screw is closed in the second vid? And it still does that? Are you sure that expansion tank is still good. It should not do that, especially with cap open too. Also if the car sits in above freezing temps , like garage, you can just use distilled water to do all this. Change your expansion tank.

[Skyline]

I see Slick's point that there's no reason to switch to the proper coolant until the system is 100% ok. Except that it's very hard to get ALL the old coolant out of the system in one shot. You may need to flush and refill more than once.

Also once you're sure the bleeder screw is not leaking, did you pressure test the system? It's better than taking a long drive and having to limp home if there's a problem. If it can't pass a pressure test, no reason to go anywhere. It's also safer; while cold, you can bring it up to pressure. It should hold pressure. You can also leave the gauge attached, and warm up the car, to make sure the pressure generated by the system is correct.

[SlickGT1]

+1 what skyline said.

When you replaced your expansion tank initially, was it OE, as in dealer, or did you buy something cheap on eBay or something. Also, when it was changed, did someone forget to close the bleed screw for a while? You changed the bleed screws, but the issue seems to be with your tank threads for that screw. Quick way to test is remove the screw, and apply some Teflon plumbing tape to the threads. If it stops leaking, your tank is shot. Do not leave the tape there, it is only temporary, and not meant for plastics.

[X5SHARMA]

Alright guys so coolant is topped off after its cooled down - and I allowed it to heat up to normal operating temperature - and drove it at least 15 miles of which 10 was on th highway at a constant 70 mph. Got a hand on an obd code reader and here's the output

Engine coolant temp sensor 1 circuit low input
P0117

Any suggestions? Everything else seems ok so far will drive to work on Monday and see how it does on long run.

[X5SHARMA]

Also used 50/50 Preston to top off with. Will flush and put in bmw coolant next chance I get after the holidays. All else seems good no leaks from expansion tank either. Also clamped that hose that had come off

[Qsilver7]

Originally Posted by X5SHARMA

...Got a hand on an obd code reader and here's the output

Engine coolant temp sensor 1 circuit low input
P0117

Any suggestions? ...

Have you typed "BMW OBD II code P0117" into a google or bing search box yet? If not, as mentioned in my previous reply...there is more than enough info already on the interwebs about OBC II codes.

You'll find info as to what sets this code off...why it sets off...what you should look at and consider for repair...what may be the issue if you've changed stuff and the problem continues...etc, etc, etc.

[Skyline]

Well you already know you overheated your car, and that fault is what set the SES light. Clear the code, and if will probably will stay away.

But BMW motors don't take kindly to overheating, so you'll have to keep a close eye out for symptoms of a damaged head gasket or even ruined cylinder head. From what you've said, it seems that neither is the case, but you need to really keep a close eye on your coolant level and your temperature gauge for a while.