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  #1  
Old 03-11-2013, 11:28 PM
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Wobble under braking

I just replaced the Front control arms with Meyle HD's and it is still doing it. I could replace the uppers and all the ball joints, the tie rods and the brake discs which would most likely fix the issue but that would be almost $1000.

Is there any tests that I can do to narrow the problem?

I've searched on this forum and others and it is either

* Loose suspension components
* Warped Discs
* Unbalanced Tyres

The tyres were new (and I presume properly balanced) when I bought it and the shimmy was there so I can semi rule that out so I'm down to warped discs or loose front suspension (except the front control arms)

I should also say that I am very adverse to taking it to a dealer or a mechanic as to replace parts bought from the USA is most times cheaper than a basic diagnosis in Australia....... And no I'm not exaggerating (My mate owns an Audi Q5 and the dealer wanted $5000 for parts and labour to replace - wait for it - all four brake rotors and pads....)
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  #2  
Old 03-11-2013, 11:33 PM
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It should be easy for the shop to confirm warped discs. That would be my next move.

EDIT: Oops, just went right over how a simple diagnosis is expensive there. That's crazy. My shop won't charge me just to inspect the rotors.

When I had my control arms replaced I had the ball joints done too. However mine were confirmed needing replacement.

18 months into ownership I had this done to the X.

(Actual prices charged)
2 Front lower control arms ($292)
Replace both control arms ($179)
2 Ball joints ($55 each)
2 Control Arm Bushings ($104)
2 CV boot kits ($73)
Replace Outer Boots ($269)
Wheel Alignment ($79)
Cabin Filter ($33)
Oil Filter Kit ($13)
Mobil 1 Oil ($56)
Oil Change ($20)
Total parts = $683
Total labor = $547 (I think they mentioned at least 6 hours to do all the work)
Shop Supplies, Tax, Etc = $83
Grand Total = $1,310

Last edited by TwinsPoppa; 03-11-2013 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:37 PM
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Interesting that it is only during breaking. Is the wobble side to side OR up and down OR front and back movement - I presume you are feeling this from the steering wheel or is it the entire front end of the car shakes?

I would guiess from past experiend on otehr vehicles:

sided to side generally means the wheels need to be balance (you stated the tires are new and this was happening before.

up or down/back and forth movement - generally disc are warped. Those are my guess.

Good luck
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:13 AM
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Might be time to get in there with a big lever/bar and start pulling on parts to see what rubber joints might be on the way out.

If its only under braking then its unlikely to be balance. Warped rotors get talked about a lot across all kinds of car platforms but are actually pretty damn rare. Can you feel the vibration though the brake pedal?
If you ride the brakes at say 5-10MPH can you feel the brake pedal pulsate at all?

My money is on suspension components, but it can be hard to isolate which ones exactly, so you can end up. How was your tire/tyre wear on the last set? That might point you in the direction you want to go. If you have a lot of camber burn on the inside, you could be looking at worn balljoints.

Have you had the alignment checked? Its kind of a chicken and egg scenario, incorrect alignment can cause pulsating, but on the other hand the components need to be in good shape for the alignment to be worthwhile.
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Old 03-12-2013, 01:32 AM
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Do u get any clunks when going over bumps? Is the wobble only during high speed braking?
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:22 AM
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Thanks guys - I think it's a suspension issue but I also thought that replacing the front control arms would fix it, i don't feel it through the brake pedal it is purely steering wheel wobble (and if you let go of the wheel the people in the back seat can see it). I do get clunks going over bumps. I've owned the car for a year and a half and the tyres were installed as part of the purchase. They may have scrimped on the balancing or not done a proper alignment however it is quite pronounced the wobble so I suspect that I should repair the suspension components prior to getting an alignment done. And if so which ones should I start with?
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinsPoppa View Post
It should be easy for the shop to confirm warped discs. That would be my next move.

EDIT: Oops, just went right over how a simple diagnosis is expensive there. That's crazy. My shop won't charge me just to inspect the rotors.

When I had my control arms replaced I had the ball joints done too. However mine were confirmed needing replacement.

18 months into ownership I had this done to the X.

(Actual prices charged)
2 Front lower control arms ($292)
Replace both control arms ($179)
2 Ball joints ($55 each)
2 Control Arm Bushings ($104)
2 CV boot kits ($73)
Replace Outer Boots ($269)
Wheel Alignment ($79)
Cabin Filter ($33)
Oil Filter Kit ($13)
Mobil 1 Oil ($56)
Oil Change ($20)
Total parts = $683
Total labor = $547 (I think they mentioned at least 6 hours to do all the work)
Shop Supplies, Tax, Etc = $83
Grand Total = $1,310
Twins that is so cheap compared to what we would pay - Just the cost of the oil alone from our cheapest car parts store cost me $170 total for 10L
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:44 AM
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Hiya,

for some reason I can't see your first post.

If there's wobble without braking, it could be loads of things already mentioned above, but also include rim-runout (ie: rims are balanced, but aren't a flat disc), so the tyre tread moves left and right. You can easily see this when the wheel shop has the wheel being balanced. You'd see the tread to appear to move left and right as the balancer spins the wheel up then slows down. Can you try swapping front-rear rims (if they're same size); or maybe try another set of rims?
My wobble was due to front tension bushes being slightly worn out. I'm running 20" rims, which makes some things noticable that you wouldn't notice on 18" rims

If it's under braking; could be loads of things already mentioned above, and can also include
- uneven pad material buildup on rotor surface (particularly problem with cheap pads). Can get rotors VERY LIGHTLY skimmed to solve this.
- suspension bushes etc. etc.. as above..

I'm in Melbourne (inner Northeast) and could you could bring it by sometime for a look/drive if you like.

I have a mate who does my servicing as I'm too lazy to DIY; who *might* be able to help you. Not sure if he has time..
I'm also going into Northern BMW tomorrow for a new CV joint boot, so I can let you know how that goes (first time I'm using them).

Good luck,
Scott.
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Old 03-12-2013, 02:45 AM
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I dont know how severe his is, but my X5 does something like this too but just a little, and depends on how you apply the brake, as we know our brakes are really touchy at first, well if i tap mine to that beginning grabbing point, the steering wheel you can feel and see it does a slight jolt usually to the right, now if you progessivly apply it, it doesnt.

Basically i think at least for me its just the grabby brakes or road imperfections, slight waves and such usually by stoplights.
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Old 03-12-2013, 03:20 AM
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Pppreciate the offer Oztime - I moved to Sydney last week so am yet to update my profile.
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