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  #61  
Old 11-06-2013, 12:28 PM
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Thanks Miniz for posting the updated pics of your lights, you really did a nice job on them. And also thanks to mrbmwx5 we have sources for replacement rings should the CCFL's burn out, 120mm and 140mm per his directions, I will be sourcing myself a set of each size when I do the retrofit on my X:

6000K Xenon White Universal Fit Halo Angel Eye LED Projector Ring Version 2 V2 | eBay

The black versions are again on backorder with no ETA of new shipment from Spyder, my contact Joe Ramirez who I check in with periodically gives me updates. However, the chrome ones are available on ebay but are getting harder to come by as well.

I just finished a retrofit for one of our members using the black Spyder ebay housings, and EvoX-R projectors. He is getting some engine work done but I'm sure he will be sharing the installed photos when they are done.

I will be posting some of the pictures from Matt's build, everything went smooth with a few "reinforcements along the way", which I will explain in a later post.
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  #62  
Old 11-06-2013, 12:35 PM
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Started with this halogen output.



One of the mount was broken when arrived, no problem, some super glue put it back in place and then I used full strength jb weld to reinforce the broken mount and the unbroken mount for strength (did this on both lights)




The EvoX is a fairly easy drop in, just need to check output before installing and test the beam and solenoid.



This is the back of the housing after putting all together and doing the swap, note the CCFL ballast hidden under the projector and all wiring hidden within the headlights, only the high beam solenoid needs hooking up when the hid ballast is installed. Note I included a spare set of Philips bulbs as he is my first customer.



All buttoned up.



Ready for shipment.


If you have any questions on the build please let me know, it was a lot of fun making these for Matt, and they will look amazing on his Estoril 4.6 when his X is running again!
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  #63  
Old 11-11-2013, 01:38 PM
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I'm trying to remember my alignment settings for the projector compared to the high beam. How far away was the projector step from the high beam? I don't recall what I set mine at and think it would be a good idea to keep this information in a monster thread like this.

Also, how did you space out the projector alignment? I remember using the original rubber tubes but they weren't bulletproof. What did you use instead? I'm thinking springs or just trusty washers this time I open them up for the third time.

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  #64  
Old 11-11-2013, 03:03 PM
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I didn't aim relative to the step on the projector, I figured the high beam bowl was going back on the original mounts so it can be tweaked as needed via the headlight adjusters (the fore/aft and left right hex adjusters), since overall the high beam will be higher if the projector itself is set higher, and the opposite if lower, etc.

For the projector mounting itself I actually kept those rubber tube washers in place, just tightened the corners evenly down (it's definitely not going anywhere), I was originally going to remove them and use regular washers on both sides, but I figured the rubber tube washers on the 4 posts might be there for some sort of shock absorber effect, so I left them in. The back 4 nuts were tightened and weren't going anywhere though. I did notice that the halogen projector wasn't mounted as tightly as i thought, or perhaps you just don't need as much torque to keep these things in place, i mean we are talking small nuts/bolts and a projector, not a brake caliper, so I guess it was normal.

When I do another set I may just add a small lock washer on the inside of the projector mounting post so that the lock washer would be a tighter buffer between the projector bowl and the back nut itself, but unless you're tightening the projector down on its 4 mounts that has one side completely tightened flat and another side completely loose, the vertical mounting of the projector won't be changed much that is visible, definitely not as important as rotational alignment in a "traditional retro" which has you aligning the projector due to the original rotation of the halogen reflector.

Obviously since you know these just utilize the same four mountings, all other things the same, as long as the projector itself is properly tuned for cutoff, hotspot, and bulb alignment/output, the mounting and assembly is the easy part in these housings.


But you're right I did notice the rubber mounting tube washers, I think they are fine for the most part but I'll most likely use regular lock washers or perhaps flat rubber washers the next time around.



Are you using those universal LED rings I linked from ebay? those look so nice and are probably the only other ones I'd use, they have a nice diffuser so they do look like they belong. I pm'ed Umnitza with the sizes of the rings and although they wouldn't disclose the sizes on their kit, they said they "should have a V2 Orion kit that would work in my application", obviously about double the price of the ones Elitemailers sells on ebay. Get yourself some 1156 stealth amber bulbs when you do the swap, would be a nice look. Looking forward to your updates when you redo the rings, I'm guessing on Thanksgiving/Winter break when you are home?
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Last edited by Ricky Bobby; 11-11-2013 at 03:08 PM.
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  #65  
Old 11-11-2013, 03:40 PM
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I don't think the projector would be aimed properly relative to the high beam if you just tightened the projector down square. Yes, you can fix the projector aiming with the knobs on the headlight housing, but when the high beam is then turned on, you'll get this cross eyed effect as the high beam will be out of wack compared to where the projector is aimed at. I remember aiming the projector relative to the high beam when I set up my lights 2 years ago, I just don't remember what measurements I used. I know my projector was offset in its mounts, ie. the rubber tubes were compressed different amounts.

It is a good idea to use two nuts instead of a spring to aim the projector. It would be much more secure than the rubber tube spacer and is still easily adjustable.

I will be using the eBay LED rings. I plan to buy both inner and outer rings, but I will probably just light up the inner rings for a more aggressive look.

I'm on the fence on whether or not to add the amber back on the corner marker. I have the tint, so it would be a free mod. I really don't want to spend $20 on clear sidemarkers to match the corner lights, especially since they may not be of god quality.

I'm also thinking of going with FX-R projectors as I'm not that happy with the RS6 ones I have. They were way too easy of a swap, and it shows since the technology is 10+ years old. The Evo-XR projectors are better, but I still think the FX-R's are far superior in light output. The dimensions are also similar so I'll see if I want to spend the money on those or just keep what I have.

All these changes and pending in the summer. I'll be too busy this winter working on my other car, and the X5 will be staying in St. Louis over the winter too.
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  #66  
Old 11-11-2013, 04:27 PM
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I had a long winded response but lost my window and it was honestly a post worthy of HIDP, not Xoutpost lol.

The long and short of it is if you're going to spend money on the FX-R, you might as well buy the EvoX-R and have the easier install, the FX-R I do not believe will bolt in the mountings of the Spyder headlights, although I have to double check mounting hole height and width, I'm fairly certain they won't. And the EvoX-R is known to have a better high beam than FX-R and probably about 85% of the low beam capabilities, both choices are worlds better than the Hella E55 and the Valeo (I think?) RS6 projectors, as like you said, its a 10 year old projector.

Also, OEM bulbs will outperform the Morimotos, not sure if you were still using the 3Fives but I noticed significantly more light on my E39 low beam OEM projectors using just fresh Philips 85122 bulbs.


With the mounting, we can theorize all day but if the projector is set up and properly tuned, and the cutoffs are aligned with the adjustment hexes and the projectors were installed similarly to their mounts, there shouldn't be much difference and the high beams should line up when all is installed. The member I did the lights for is using the "quad high beam" function with high beam splitters, so I was more concerned about the low beam and high beam of the projector being on point, than if any small difference in tightening down the projector made on the halogen high beam (which is now washed out anyway). Regardless, the install went well with no hiccups and i'm excited to see his installed pics and impressions.

I hear you on the amber turns, I forgot you had amber fender markers too. Either way it might be something to do when you open them up, I was talking more about doing a stealth amber 1156 turn signal bulb to get rid of the "egg yolk" look.


Looks like you're a few months out for these mods and install, if I can pay some bills and get my parts together I would like to get this done over the winter if possible, I'm slowly starting to piece together what I need, and was trying to wait for more sets of black housings to be available (they are on backorder from Spyder currently), or just get a set of chromes and paint the shroud/bezels black to look like yours. I'm most likely going to install LED rings from the start as well, but I might just run the CCFL until they burn out as well.
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  #67  
Old 11-11-2013, 05:15 PM
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I'm running Hella RS6 projectors. They use the same mounts as the E55, so I assume they are the same bowls too, since they are both around the same age. The only difference is with the solenoid/electronics location. I had to relocate mine since it was under the bowl, and the E55 (and Evo-XR) solenoid and electronics are directly in front of the shutter.

I still do not agree with high beam aiming not being a factor. Being that these are Chinese made projectors, the plastic mold was very weak and was nowhere near square. There was no way I could have installed my projector on square, and still had it within specifications and not have it be aimed wildly different than the high beam. Even with my tinted bowls, I could still see the high beam focus point clearly from 20 feet away, so that is why I made an effort to aim it properly and not cause lose light output that should be directed in front of the car.

In regards to the EVOX-R vs. FX-R debate, I'm still undecided. The EvoX's aren't a big improvement over the E55's (and I assume my RS6's) per this picture. E55 vs. EVOX-R comparison picture. The FX-R's have a much better low beam output, but I didn't find side-by-side comparisons with the V3's and EVOX-R, only the V1.1's. Plus, you aren't driving around with your high beams all the time, so I think the FX-R's are a better buy, especially since you can always find unused ones floating the for sale sections all the time.

It also seems that the FX-R is slightly smaller than the E55/RS6/EVO-X projector. Going with this 92mmx50mm original mounting dimension:

It seems that it will be very easy to make a bracket to allow for the FX-R's to bolt right up.

I understood you were talking about corner bulbs for my current lights. I just don't want to clear out my corner lights, and still have amber sidemarkers. I'd rather have some amber in the front, to match the amber sidemarkers, or clear out everything.
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  #68  
Old 11-11-2013, 05:49 PM
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True on all points and understood about the high beam aiming, I was more interested in keeping the low beams on point, and if the reflector of the high beam was off somewhat then the xenon high beam would be washing it out anyway. Not sure if you unscrewed your adjustment hexes all the way and took out the shroud/bowl assembly with the adjusters intact, or just popped the assembly off the ball/socket mounts like I did? I popped mine off and popped them back on when installing, and made sure the adjustment hexes were as close to the middle as I could get them while still being in alignment, so that one has the ability to use the hexes for fine tuning upon install for variables like ride height, etc. The stock auto-level motors bolt in as well so he will retain that function.

Nice measurement on the 90 wide by 55 high, found these for the FX-R on HIDPlanet.

FX-R 3.0
Diameter: 67mm
Length: (mounting holes to end of bulb holder) 70mm
Length: (seat of lens to top mounting holes) 45mm
Length: (seat of lens to bottom mounting holes) 40mm
Width: (between bottom mounting holes) 52mm
Width: (between top mounting holes) 74mm
Max Length: 140mm
Max Width: 105mm
Max Height: 97mm

I still have the E55 H7 projectors in my basement, I could check the other mounting holes for distance, however, I don't know the height between the top and bottom dimension.

You're absolutely right that the EvoX-R is more of an improvement over the E55/RS6 than a whole new projector, but in my opinion, the E55 is not a bad projector to begin with at all, so if the EvoX-R makes a better low beam than stock, and adds a nice table top high beam, I'm all about it. A better low beam on the FX-R (compared to a projector that already puts out better lighting than stock!) is great, but seeking that with additional mods compared to retrofitting an EvoX projector is not worth the additional project, as I wouldn't call myself a lighting aficionado enough to start comparing one awesome projector to the next.


You're right I'm not driving with my high beams on all the time, but I sure would appreciate a good one when I need it driving in the backroads of upper Somerset County where I live, the deer come out of everywhere! Couple that with the halogen high beams and my 4300k Morimoto fog lights in OEM Valeo projector housings, which are coded to stay on unless turned off by the headlight switch, someday when I retro a set for myself I'll have a nice "6 gun salute" for high beams LOL!

I actually have no problem with my stock projectors whatsoever now that I have fresh Philips bulbs in there, I would appreciate some sharper cutoff and colorband a clear lens will give, and a little extra intensity from the bowl of the EvoX-R, but overall, the X5 does have great stock projectors IMO.
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  #69  
Old 11-11-2013, 08:18 PM
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You can see in the picture I posted that I popped the ball socket off the adjustment hexes and that was all. I am not talking about adjustment hexes. The point I'm trying to make is that while the EVOX-R bolts right up as the mounting points are there, it isn't that simple when you take into account how the light gets dispersed after the retrofit. You can see the rubber tube spacers in my picture, and when you mount the projector on it, it can still rotate on an left right axis relative to the high beam. While you can adjust left/right aim and up/down aim on the housing itself, that doesn't fix the left/right aim of the projector relative to the high beam. I also don't think the bi-xenon washes out the high beam at all, so improper aiming still provides a glare to oncoming drivers and reduces light output where you want it.

You also don't need dimensions for the E55 H7 projectors. I just looked at the EVOX-R dimensions since they are basically the same thing, and they are becoming popular for an "easy" retrofit so there is more documentation than when I was doing mine 2 years ago.
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Old 01-30-2014, 04:52 PM
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Okay, slow day in school today and decided to do some more thinking on these lights.

120 mm and 140 mm LED angel eye rings for the Spyder E53 projector headlights fit perfectly, cool. I'll probably do just the inner 140 mm ring on my lights, and paint the projector red for a demon eye look.

I've also been looking at OEM headlights and how BMW mounted them. This is a perfect picture to showcase how alignment actually matters when installing a projector. Note the o-rings on the projector posts. You can adjust the projector's aim by adjusting where the o-ring is on the post. Hella made them adjustable for a reason.


If anybody has broken apart the eBay Spyder headlights, I'd like to know the post dimensions and see if I could find an o-ring big enough to make it work like OEM. A very simple design, even simpler than me thinking about using springs and washers.

Man, I just want this semester to end so I could go back and work on cars. You can turn a hefty profit on making custom headlights since it takes zero knowledge to put together a set. I wish I could sell mine easily, but they've been customized to a point that not many X5'ers want them.
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