Yet another CV axle questions

[HPIA4v2]

Yep, got pin holes on the outer boot, passenger side; not complete tear yet.

I wonder about c-clip #2 in the picture, do I need to pop it out to slide the entire axle out?
The video doesn't seems to indicate popping any c-clip.
How to do a CV axle on a BMW X5 SUV - YouTube


Also Napa store close to my house stock, 2 different axles; one remanufactured ($49 with my core, else it's $139) or brand new Chinese made for $99 (no core required). I wonder if the remfgd is US built and from OE core?
Ny one experience with either, bad or good.

TIA

[upallnight]

Hope you "like" Brian's video if you find it helpful. He's one of my favorite Youtuber. A long pry bar and a quick pop will pop the inner axle free.

But if you only need to replace the CV boot there's an easier way without removing the axle from the hub. This was posted on another forum.

CV Boot Replacement (front Axles) - Pelican Parts Technical BBS

[stevekat]

You can get two Cardone Select new axles from Rock Auto for about $110 delivered.

[HPIA4v2]

Originally Posted by stevekat

You can get two Cardone Select new axles from Rock Auto for about $110 delivered.

Well, at this point I'd rather replace the outr boot, intesd of getting a Chinese made axle.

Ordered all the tools, air-chisel (to push the axle outof the hub), 36mm impact socket, crimper, set of pry bar and 2 outer boots.
Hope it won't be a nightmare once I got in there. My friend told me he paid indy shop around $500 for outer boot replacement so maybe even after tools etc I still save money, especially I have a feelingthe left one is on the way out also.

BTW while shopping for air chisel, I came across Chinese made air-chisel, get this $13 for the gun and 3-chisel bits. I am buying IR 122MAXK for 10x that. How in the world China can make any of those things so cheap is beyond me.

[Ricky Bobby]

Originally Posted by HPIA4v2

Well, at this point I'd rather replace the outr boot, intesd of getting a Chinese made axle.

Ordered all the tools, air-chisel (to push the axle outof the hub), 36mm impact socket, crimper, set of pry bar and 2 outer boots.
Hope it won't be a nightmare once I got in there. My friend told me he paid indy shop around $500 for outer boot replacement so maybe even after tools etc I still save money, especially I have a feelingthe left one is on the way out also.

BTW while shopping for air chisel, I came across Chinese made air-chisel, get this $13 for the gun and 3-chisel bits. I am buying IR 122MAXK for 10x that. How in the world China can make any of those things so cheap is beyond me.

which is why I would hesitate for a "NEW" chinese made axle for 50 bucks for our trucks which weigh 6k and cost around 50k new

[stevekat]

In looking at the Cardone Select axles, while we cannot from just looking at them know their metallurgy or machining tolerances, I can say they look very well made. In trying them, prior to doing so I noted a few folks having used them successfully to date (admittedly not long term but mid-term) and did not come across much if any negative experience (there might have been an instance of difficultly getting one installed.) In my case, so far so good, though I only have about 1000 miles on the set. I had thought of retaining my factory set just in case, but after looking at them, tossed them. I shall report back if I have any problems, if I am able.

[Ricky Bobby]

very glad you had a positive experience and I hope you continue to do so, I also pondered with the idea of replacing with Cardone Select as it's easier to replace axles than just the boot, but will most likely do the rebooting on the outer joint only.

[stevekat]

I had thought of doing that as well, but it looked like it would be a real mess. Just replacing the axles without tearing into the CV's was pretty dirty. As long as one if fine with unlimited grease, doing just the boots is probably a good idea, if there is confidence the CV's did not get contaminated and would not wear prematurely.

[Ricky Bobby]

you were the one who posted in the other CV axle thread right? you said i should have no problem getting the axle out of the way (with the inner joint still attached to the car) to clear the wheel hub so that I can press my wheel bearings in and out, with just unbolting the wishbone at the frame and removing the caliper/rotor?

I have heard conflicting opinions on this, some say unbolting the strut gives you more room to "swing" the axle out of the way of the hub, I have also seen some people in other threads who tried to unbolt the wishbone at the frame and get the axle out, but could only get the inner portion which attaches to the outer CV free (outer CV joint still attached to hub)

to be clear I need to be definitive on which gives me the access to get entire outer portion of CV axle free of the hub, unbolting strut or unbolting wishbone?

Once I have the entire outer axle portion as one unit swung out of the way I would attempt to disassemble the joint/boot and reboot with new boot before buttoning up everything.

[stevekat]

From personal experience, and you may wish to read my post about my experience...

http://www.xoutpost.com/913491-post174.html

By unbolting the bottom arm from the unibody, I was able to push out the axle with a hammer drill, and pull the axle out of the way of the hub. You cannot pull it anywhere you want, but it clears the hub assembly quite well. I did not change my bearings, but my recollection is it would be possible to get some tools around the hub with the axle out of the way.

BTW, on the passenger side, since the axle shaft is longer into the box, it is tougher to pull the entire axle out, however I was able to do so with only unbolting the bottom arm from the frame, but I had to jack the hub up under the ball joint to allow the clearance and proper angle for the entire axle to come out. But it was no problem to swing the outer axle/CV away from the hub after pushing the outer axle from the hub.