Tips for Vanos / Chain Guides 4.4i

[Dudewanarace]

So, just finished replacing the chain guides on my 4.4i, 130,000 miles. I caught the problem before it was very bad at all, so that was the good news. But, while I was at it, I did everything else I should while it was torn down. Here are a couple things I noted during the job that may help others later.

Here is the DIY for the Vanos rebuild from Beisan Systems:
Beisan Systems - Procedures - M62TU Vanos Procedure
It is based on a 5 or 7 series, but very close. The only thing I did differently was remove the dip stick tube, as it just didn't give me enough room. Also because I was taking the lower timing case off as well and needed the room. The dipstick isn't as easy to remove as on the cars. It enters the oil pan behind the A/C compressor. Order ALL of the parts as suggested on their DIY, you will need them.

I got most of the other parts from OEM Bimmer Parts, mainly from this page:
Engine Mechanical Parts
Valve cover gasket kits, chain guide kit, intake gaskets, oil separator and hoses, etc.

The other big order I got from Auto Parts at AutohausAZ - OEM Auto Parts - Discount Replacement Parts, Resources and Car Care Tips
Mainly gaskets that were not available from OEM Bimmer.
Coolant drain crush washer on block, crankshaft seal, Vanos servo seals, valley pan, camshaft oil seals for inside the Vanos unit (6), dip stick tube O-ring, water pump gasket and O-rings, throttle body gasket, timing cover gaskets, lower oil pan gasket, and last but not least the crankshaft bolt. (a.k.a the "Jesus" bolt)

You MUST have the cam timing tool set to do this job. I rented mine from Bimmer Tool Rental. Their set comes with the Beisan Systems Vanos Press Tool that you will need to rebuild the Vanos units. $75 for a month!

Also, you need the crankshaft holding tool to remove the crankshaft bolt, and re-install it. I got mine off Ebay for $85. I debated making it, but just got lazy..

I used a serious set of 3/4" drive breaker bars, with long extensions for both the crank holding tool, and the 27mm socket on the crank bolt. Work smarter, not harder. Get a cheater bar before you break your arms off. That bolt is really in there! Treat it with penetrating oil the day before, that helps.

Some of the other DIY threads I used to help along the way. Not 100% accurate, but close.

DIY: Timing Chain Guide & Timing Chain Replacement
Oil pan is different, and there isn't an internal oil seperator.. Also my upper oil pan gasket was metal and was in good shape. His was paper and ripped..

Lower chain case cover removal and reinstallation (M62TU)
Good shots of the lower timing case removed, so you can see all the bolts. But, the X5 does have a bolt on the back of the power steering pump that connects below the alternator, total pain in the ass! I left mine on till I had the lower case away from the engine, then took the nut off. Then, when installing, put that nut on the power steering pump before you put the lower case back on the block.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...e-rails-4.html
This thread is pretty good, at least its an X5! haha

I stripped and painted my valve covers. The stock stuff just looks like hell, even though you only see about 20% of it. Lots of work, but at least I feel better about it. I used aircraft paint stripper, and high temp flat black paint.

Chemicals: Oil, Filter, Coolant, penetrating oil, silicone spray for O-ring installs, degreaser, ultra grey gasket sealer, etc..

Tools: 27mm for crankshaft bolt, probably get a 3/4" drive for your huge ass breaker bar, I think a 24mm for something I can't remember, 19mm for the cam chain tensioner, GOOD set of torx bits (snapped a bunch of cheap ones), torque wrench that works both ways (the cam bolts are left thread so they torque left, some wrenches don't indicate going left)

Thats about all that comes to mind. If anyone has any questions, just ask. Be happy to help someone through this job..