Cooling Fan Fault

[A B Able Truck]

Was your recall actually done????

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=BOkV0csbNCM

BMW issued SI Bulletin 64 07 01 yesterday to notify dealers that all models that were recently recalled to replace the auxiliary/cooling fan would be recalled again.
Here is some of the pertinent info from the SI Bulletin:

"SUBJECT
Recall Campaign 01V-206: Engine Auxiliary/Cooling Fan - E46, E38, E39, E52, E53
MODEL
E46, 3 Series with manual transmission, produced 02/01/2001 up to 06/01/2001
E38, 7 Series from 11/01/2000 up to 06/30/2001
E39, 5 Series from 01/16/2001 up to 08/31/2001
E52, Z8 from 01/01/2001 up to 08/31/2001
E53, X5 from 12/18/2000 up to 09/05/2001
NOTE :
This notification contains important revisions to Recall Campaign 01V-206, Engine Auxiliary /Cooling Fan which has been revised.
ALL VEHICLES CAMPAIGNED UNDER THE CURRENT RECALL 01V-206 WILL BE RECALLED AGAIN USING THE FOLLOWING, NEW PART NUMBERS:
· E46 – PN 17 11 7 510 617
· E39 – PN 64 54 6 921 395
· E38/E52 – PN 64 54 6 921 383
· E53 – PN 64 54 6 921 381.
Should a customer who has received a Notification Letter for the Recall 01V-206 request that Recall 01V-206 be performed, proceed with the repairs described in this Service Bulletin.
This Service Information Bulletin is going to be updated shortly with the full VIN range of the affected vehicles. Customer notification mailings will follow.
SITUATION
The potential defect involves the engine auxiliary/cooling fan in certain MY 2001 BMW vehicles.
Fan operation, including variable speed, is electronically controlled. It is possible for the electrical circuitry in the fan control unit to overheat and fail, causing the fan to stop operating. If this were to occur, engine overheating and subsequent engine damage could result if vehicle continues to be operated, despite the warning provided by the coolant temperature gauge.
In addition, it is possible in some cases for the failure of the electrical circuitry to cause smoldering. In the extreme case, a fire in the fan control unit, which is mounted in the fan and located in the front of the engine compartment, could occur. This could happen either while the engine is running or after the ignition has been switched off since fan may run for up to 11 minutes after engine shutdown."

[bobschultz]

I found this one with a google search. Looks to be pretty straight forward. Mine is not working either so likely going to have to replace but going to check the fuse and the connector with hope its just an easy fix.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ditioning.html

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by bobschultz

I found this one with a google search. Looks to be pretty straight forward. Mine is not working either so likely going to have to replace but going to check the fuse and the connector with hope its just an easy fix.

http://www.xoutpost.com/bmw-sav-foru...ditioning.html

If the 50 amp fuse is blown it not an easy fix. That mean the fan motor has crap out and a new aux fan will needs to be replaced.

[bobschultz]

Upallnight, I checked the fuse and it's fine but the fan still does not activate. Searching has not shown up anything other then reference to a relay but some have said there is no relay involved. The fan spins freely and the AC works fine at higher speeds.

Appreciate any thoughts

Bob
X5 2003.

[upallnight]

Could still be a fan fault since the fan speed controller is built into the fan. You will need BMW specific software such as Inpa or BMW Scanner 1.4 to command the fan to turn on to verify that the fan is at fault. The controller receive a pulse signal from the DME to turn the fan on and control the fan speed. If the fan turns on after you command it with the software than the fan is probably o.k. The next item to check will be the switch for the AC on the console.

In my case the 50 amp fuse blew so I knew that I had to replace the fan.

[bobschultz]

Thanks for the feedback, I don't have the software so will need to get my shop to run this. Suppose this is a good idea before tearing out the front end.

[admranger]

You should have 12v continuous at the large conductors for the fan (key on or OFF). Check that. If you don't have 12v there, then behind the fuses in the fuse box are fusible links. I forget which one it is, but one of those is in direct line with the fan circuit.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by admranger

You should have 12v continuous at the large conductors for the fan (key on or OFF). Check that. If you don't have 12v there, then behind the fuses in the fuse box are fusible links. I forget which one it is, but one of those is in direct line with the fan circuit.

It's a BIG RED fuse (50 amp). If the fuse is blown, then the fan is no good because that is the only device on that circuit. It take a direct short to blow that fuse.

[bobschultz]

Great, I'll check the voltage tomorrow and let you know the results. The fuse able link u mentioned is the type 50 amp fuse or is there something else? My fuse was okay, number 61.

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by bobschultz

Great, I'll check the voltage tomorrow and let you know the results. The fuse able link u mentioned is the type 50 amp fuse or is there something else? My fuse was okay, number 61.

Some other poster called it a fusible link, I always called it a fuse. It look like a typical blade fuse only BIGGER.

You can check the voltage at the fan connector attached to the fan shroud. It will have voltage whether the key is on or off or no key is in the ignition.