Replacing front brake pads.

[bcredliner]

There is only one sensor on front and back. I suggest purchasing the sensor. It is recommended as something to do with a brake job and my experience is that almost always the metal contact gets bent up when it is removed and hard to get it to fit right in order to use it again. Depending on what you are looking for you might want to take a look at what EBC offers. They offer a very low dust ceramic pad that performs as promoted

[dpgx5]

Is it possible that the sensor might not work? I was in nuetral and it was rolling back and I slowly lifted the emerg brake and the back squealed and right side did a dip ? My rear brakes havent been change since the last owner 08/09 not sure he change to axxis deluxe but I don't drive the x that much only summer months? Maybe measure them would be my best bet? Thanks

[JCL]

Originally Posted by dpgx5

Is it possible that the sensor might not work? I was in nuetral and it was rolling back and I slowly lifted the emerg brake and the back squealed and right side did a dip ? My rear brakes havent been change since the last owner 08/09 not sure he change to axxis deluxe but I don't drive the x that much only summer months? Maybe measure them would be my best bet? Thanks

If the sensor fails you will get a warning light on the dash saying you need pads. But recall that the sensor is only on one pad per axle, so if the caliper is sticking and one pad is wearing faster, or one side is wearing faster, the sensor could still show as OK even though the pads are worn out. If they have worn unevenly, you don't just need pads but need to fix the calipers and/or slides. Measuring the actual pad thickness is the only way to know any of this.

None of this has anything to do with you lifting the handbrake. The handbrake uses a separate set of drum brakes on the rear for parking, not connected to the disk brakes used for service brakes.

[KyleNatolix5]

I picked up both sensors on eBay for a total of $16 shipped. For my .02 on the aftermarket brakes, I'd stay with OEM. I have Brembo drilled rotors and EBC Red Stuff pads and let me tell you, they squeal and spit dust like no ones business.

[dpgx5]

Originally Posted by JCL

If the sensor fails you will get a warning light on the dash saying you need pads. But recall that the sensor is only on one pad per axle, so if the caliper is sticking and one pad is wearing faster, or one side is wearing faster, the sensor could still show as OK even though the pads are worn out. If they have worn unevenly, you don't just need pads but need to fix the calipers and/or slides. Measuring the actual pad thickness is the only way to know any of this.

None of this has anything to do with you lifting the handbrake. The handbrake uses a separate set of drum brakes on the rear for parking, not connected to the disk brakes used for service brakes.

Thanks JCL. I was away and don't get to drive the X often but have since I got back and want to stretch its legs etc. I will have to check them out and measure. How can I confirm if caliper sticky? Would it pull to one side?

[TiAgX5]

The cleanest way to check for a stuck caliper is to hwy drive for 15mins, drive off/into rest area WITHOUT using brakes, check each rotor with a pyrometer. A rotor hotter then the others has a stuck caliper.

[bcredliner]

First, I would remove the wheels with sensors and take a look at the pad thickness If that side is close to being worn out it is time to replace both anyway. Once you have the pads removed you can see if there is significant difference in wear from side to side. In my experience I can always see some difference. You should replace the rotors whenever you replace pads.

If the pads are not worn out, before replacing a sensor I would unplug the connection to the vehicle, one at a time to see if the dash light comes on. Do not disconnect the sensor at the pads as it is to easy to damage it. Sensors should be replaced when pads are replaced. I buy the sensors sold at dealer, they are not that expensive and I know what I am getting.

That said, I haven't heard anything that indicates your pads need to be replaced. You have no dash light and if they were gone you would be hearing a grinding noise when you brake as it would be metal to metal.

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by KyleNatolix5

I picked up both sensors on eBay for a total of $16 shipped. For my .02 on the aftermarket brakes, I'd stay with OEM. I have Brembo drilled rotors and EBC Red Stuff pads and let me tell you, they squeal and spit dust like no ones business.

I have Baar slotted and drilled rotors and EBC red stuff pads--they have never squealed and generate extremely low dust. I do always use disc brake quiet on the back and ears of the pads.

[StephenVA]

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

The cleanest way to check for a stuck caliper is to hwy drive for 15mins, drive off/into rest area WITHOUT using brakes, check each rotor with a pyrometer. A rotor hotter then the others has a stuck caliper.

+1

[TiAgX5]

Originally Posted by StephenVA

+1

A pyrometer is a handy tool for finding bad plugs/ignition wires (shoot each header/exhaust manifold runner for a cool one), check tire pressure on track days (even temp across contact surface), lean condition on multi-carb setups (higher exhaust runner temp on cyls fed by lean carb).

Once I started using one, I wondered why I waited so long to get it.