FIXED!!!!!-Smog failed due to EML light, did a drive cycle, now car is messing up! - Page 6

TerminatorX5 · #51 07-12-2013, 12:58 AM

is there a sure way to verify proper operation of DISA? like, listen to it? or watch it? could we still have something in that area that might be mulfunctioning or not correctly seated in a position?

this question is to the forum at large...

Sponsored Links

diddy0071 · #52 07-12-2013, 09:59 AM

Here is a video of my problems:

2001 BMW X5 3.0i Rough Idle issues - YouTube

diddy0071 · #53 07-12-2013, 10:54 AM

Damnit! I tried to start the car this morning (cold start) and it kept turning off. Then, when it finally turned on, it started stumbling around still. I dunno if it is a vacuum leak anymore, but I am frusted as hell!

diddy0071 · #54 07-12-2013, 11:44 AM

Could I possibly be suffering from a bad/damaged ICV?

diddy0071 · #55 07-12-2013, 03:29 PM

So I've been reading the possible issues:

DISA Valve
Vacuum Leaks
MAF Sensor
CCV
ICV
Vanos
Fuel Filter

Anyone can chime in on their thoughts?

DISA is replaced, no visible vacuum leaks, MAF sensor is new. Should I try to clean the ICV?

Ricky Bobby · #56 07-12-2013, 03:33 PM

How fresh are your spark plugs? If you have a leaking valve cover gasket and the plugs are sitting in oil I'm sure that wouldn't help your idle.

Also have you replaced that 15 dollar intake tube ever on your car? 3.0's are notorious for them tearing and causing a vacuum leak/idle issue.

diddy0071 · #57 07-12-2013, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

How fresh are your spark plugs? If you have a leaking valve cover gasket and the plugs are sitting in oil I'm sure that wouldn't help your idle.

Also have you replaced that 15 dollar intake tube ever on your car? 3.0's are notorious for them tearing and causing a vacuum leak/idle issue.

I replaced the rubber boot (The one that goes into the intake, and the ICV) Everything else looked to be in shape without vacuum leaks.

Haven't checked the spark plugs since I purchased it in late 2011. I'll open that sucker up today.

Ricky Bobby · #58 07-12-2013, 03:40 PM

It will literally take you 5 minutes to open the hood pop off the engine cover, get a coilpack out and pull one or all the plugs (they are all in line and accessible.

Check out the hole when the plug is removed, if there is a puddle of oil, you'd know it. Some oil residue is ok.

If not that, I'd look into your ICV, did you take it off when you cleaned it while replacing the intake boot? If you left it in situ while replacing the intake boot it may be clogged (look up ake53's thread from when he replaced his intake boot, he tried just spraying carb cleaner in it and ended up having real shitty running car until he fixed the ICV)

diddy0071 · #59 07-12-2013, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby

It will literally take you 5 minutes to open the hood pop off the engine cover, get a coilpack out and pull one or all the plugs (they are all in line and accessible.

Check out the hole when the plug is removed, if there is a puddle of oil, you'd know it. Some oil residue is ok.

If not that, I'd look into your ICV, did you take it off when you cleaned it while replacing the intake boot? If you left it in situ while replacing the intake boot it may be clogged (look up ake53's thread from when he replaced his intake boot, he tried just spraying carb cleaner in it and ended up having real shitty running car until he fixed the ICV)

I will tackle that after work on the spark plugs. I did not remove the ICV (I didn't know about it being an issue) I did spray carb cleaner in there as well as carb cleaner on the actual intake (it was a fair bit dirty) Looks like I am going to have to tear the boot and air filter box apart again to get into it. Also, if there is oil in the spark plugs, what is that an indication of? What will I need to replace?

bcredliner · #60 07-12-2013, 06:38 PM

Now that it won't run it is time to start over at the beginning.

Filters don't cause an engine to get that sick all of a sudden and do not progress that quickly to keep the engine from running but remove it to eliminate the possibility.

Clean the the old MAF sensor with MAF cleaner and re-install it. Note--the part of the MAF to be sure is very clean are the wires that are at the end of the sensor not the single obvious wire. You don't have to remove the tube just change out the sensor portion. Three screws and it pulls out. See if it will start.

If it doesn't start, check for fuel. Turn the key to the second position and check if fuel is pressurized at the engine. If no fuel, which is high on the list because of the lean fuel condition code, though after a shot MAF, replace the fuel filter and see if fuel flows. If no fuel we are back to the fuel pump or bad fuel if it has only been happening with this load of fuel. You can try to hear the fuel pump by listening at the fuel fill or putting a socket extension to your ear and against the tank. I have never done that as I play my stereo really loud and have my headphones always at full volume so it would have to be as loud as a 50 ton press banging out a fender for me to hear and if fuel doesn't flow after replacing the filter the fuel pump was not working.

If fuel is flowing and it still won't start check for spark.

If it has spark it could be a major vacuum leak or lots of air getting in after the MAF but that is very difficult to find unless you can get it running. If you get it running and it still is like a cow making methane holes in the ozone, take a can of pressurized brake cleaner-- In an open area, when the engine is cold and running with a fire extinguisher handy spray areas where there could be a vacuum leak, also spray around the injectors. If you spray a vacuum leak the engine RPMs will increase.

I wouldn't try anything more until I went back through the basics in some logical process of elimination.

Sponsored Links