Front Suspension Noise

[tomsawyer]

I never checked the whether the bolts/nuts were tight. I guess I could do that tonight when I get home from work. I already purchased the strut mounts from the dealer and I purchased the KYB struts. Like I said before, I don't have any evidence the struts are bad but the mechanic figured since he's gonna be in there anyway, he might as well change them.

Does anyone have any experience with the KYB's versus the Bilsteins's? It was just too much money to go OE. Thanks

[tomsawyer]

Ok here's the update. So far, I've changed the sway bar links, front strut mounts and struts and the noise is still there. Sounds like a clanging sound on the front driver's side and only seems to happen on really rough roads, with potholes. There's a big difference on the way the left hand side of the truck handles the roughness vs the right side. Mechanic checked the control arms and they're very tight.

Any ideas what this could be?

BTW, the KYB struts worked out very well for a third of the price of OE.

[AZX54.4]

Check cv joints and motor mounts.

[tomsawyer]

Thanks AZ.

Since I'm already into this issue for a grand and haven't resolved. Can you tell me how would I or a mechanic know if its a CV Joint or the motor mounts? Is there a test he or I can do to verify? Or, is it you just take your chances changing out the part and hopefully that's it?

Sorry for the stupid questions but I'm not very mechanical.

[AZX54.4]

You can check the cv joint by visual inspection and then by feeling. Visually inspect to see if either the inner or outer boot is torn and has slung cv grease around. Then if you grab the cv axle it should be pretty taught. If it has some lateral movement in and out (towards wheel towards engine) that is alright. However, if it has significant lateral movement and radial movement that might be a sign of a failing cv joint. As well, if there is any clunking metal on metal noise at the joints this could indicate a failing joint. The symptoms of a failing joint for me while driving were a clunking noise when turning and a significant vibration with throttle on around 65mph or more. Throttle on with a grade at 65mph plus the car had a significant front end shake.
For the motor mounts, I had no idea how shot they were until I had them replaced. At start up my car had a descent amount of movement from the engine shaking. As well, it idled rough. Now, I cant even tell the car is running at idle. When coming to a stop, it felt like the car would stop and then it would push forward again. This was the engine moving forward.

For the issue you are describing it probably wouldn't be related to motor mounts. A worn cv axle could be a good thing to look into though.

[tomsawyer]

From what you described, it doesn't sound like either. When on a smooth surface, truck rides perfectly. When braking there is no shake, no weight shifting or any type of disruption other than braking (truck used to brake differently until I had the thrust rod bushings replaced) and idle is very smooth.

If we stick with the suspension for a moment and the mounts, struts and sway bar links have been changed on both sides and the control arms are tight, what else is there in the front suspension that could generate that clanging noise?

[AZX54.4]

I think you are most likely correct that it isn't related to cv joints.

[Kristophe]

Maybe the slid plate underneath the engine has missing or loose mounting bolt(s)?

[tomsawyer]

Thanks Kris

I did some thread searching last night and came up with the following possibilities -

• Ball Joints on Tension Arms
• 4 Sway Bar Mount Bolts
• Sway Bar Bushings (already changed)
• Under Tray Bolts
• Thrust Rod Bushings (changed last year)
• CV Joint
• Wheel Bearing

Not sure if there could be anything else.

[740ilDuke]

Generally the control arms go bad. Have a friend drive up and stand on the brakes, if the front tires shift forward and you get a thunk - the arms are bad.

OEM run for $129 each. Alternatively you can replace the bushing, but by the time you pay someone to press out the old and press in the new it's easier to just buy the arms new. Not to mention the fact that the ball joint on the other end will be worn as well, and you can't replace that. That's why I just replace the whole arm.


BMW X5 Front Control Arm / Tension Strut OEM