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  #11  
Old 08-09-2013, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
Were the diagnostics from reading computer codes or I'm guessing that's what it is so I am going to replace that part and see?

I assume the new MAF was an attempt to fix the problem?

Can you post a video of the 'rattle' by making it happen one time?
Yes you are right I just guessed about the MAF and replaced it but it didnt make any difference
Then I took the car to a auto electrician who said car software shows misfire cylinder 5,6 and 8
He replaced coils 5,6 and 8 and said he tested other coils (resistance test) and wiring and that other coils/wiring was fine
When I collected car it does idle much more smoothly but still struggles when it gets to 4000rpm
Occasionally you feel a surge of power as if the car is going to accelerate normally, but this is happening less and less
To give you an idea, if I put the accelerator fully down, the car will never go above 50mph as the car can't reach the correct revs to change gear
If I press the accelerator gently, the car will gradually accelerate to perhaps a max speed of 80mph before reaching 4000rpm and rattles
Overtaking/driving at 0-30mph is no real problem, but the car doesn't have the power it should to accelerate rapidly
I will try to upload a video tomorrow morning (in 15 hours time)
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  #12  
Old 08-09-2013, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TerminatorX5 View Post
search and read on the symptoms of the chain guide failure - while i don't think it is the case, but read up about the issue to rule it out... with this problem, the failure will be CATASTROPHIC, to the tune of a new engine... once you ruled that problem out, carry on with the rest of troubleshooting...

try to pull the codes, they can steer you in the right direction
Hi and thanks for your message.
I had a look just now of timing chain guide failure noises on YouTube.
This is not the noise I am getting
My engine is very smooth with no obvious misfire and runs quietly (from idle-2500rpm)
The struggle for the engine to rev starts maybe at approx 3000rpm until 4000rpm. Its as if the combustions are not powerful. The rattle occurs at approx 4000rpm
Occasionally I feel more power and the car accelerates faster and there is less/no rattle and perhaps he revs go higher to say 5000rpm
If I accelerate the engine to 4000rpm gently there may be no rattle
If I do it more rapidly there will be more rattle at approx 4000rpm only
It's a very random irregular rattle like a loose flap. It is not a regular repetitive rattle.
I will try and upload a video soon
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  #13  
Old 08-09-2013, 03:46 PM
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Hi i managed to (hopefully) upload a video
Let me know what you think
I did try removing the air filter but this didnt make any difference
Thanks
Attached Files
File Type: wmv Movie.wmv (995.6 KB, 253 views)
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  #14  
Old 08-09-2013, 04:06 PM
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your DME is preventing you from idling past certain amount so you do not kill the motor... i did not notice the engine light on the video but you said you have the EML... that means you have codes set in the system and those codes need to be read

I suspect that your coil issues were not completely resolved. i do not know if you have the technical ability to actually read the codes with BMW specific software, like GT1, INPA or whatnot, but those will narrow your search... I've had similar problem on 4.8is and was able to narrow it down to a coil...

Where is Ha5? are you in UK? your cluster shows miles and kilometers in speedo and miles in odo, and celcius in temperature... if we have members close to you who could let you borrow their INPA, you might be able to run live tests to see what is happening...
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  #15  
Old 08-09-2013, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aman View Post
The rattle sounds to me like a metal flap that is rattling but I guess perhaps a can with a marble in it may produce the same noise....
This metal flap, could it be a faulty throttle body maybe?

I would check the chain tensioners/guides as well. Maybe its the chain ratteling against a guide of something?

Vanos not aligned properly?

I wouldnt push it hard up to 5k before you know exactly whats going on

Edit: sorry i didnt notice page 2 before i posted, let me check out the video.

Last edited by pezho405; 08-09-2013 at 04:24 PM.
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  #16  
Old 08-09-2013, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by TerminatorX5 View Post
your DME is preventing you from idling past certain amount so you do not kill the motor... i did not notice the engine light on the video but you said you have the EML... that means you have codes set in the system and those codes need to be read

I suspect that your coil issues were not completely resolved. i do not know if you have the technical ability to actually read the codes with BMW specific software, like GT1, INPA or whatnot, but those will narrow your search... I've had similar problem on 4.8is and was able to narrow it down to a coil...

Where is Ha5? are you in UK? your cluster shows miles and kilometers in speedo and miles in odo, and celcius in temperature... if we have members close to you who could let you borrow their INPA, you might be able to run live tests to see what is happening...
Thanks for your reply
HA5 is in the UK, Northwest London
The engine management light is off since the coils have been changed
If I drive the car and hold it at 4000rpm (max rpm it can goto - i did this only once or twice after the coil changes) the engine management light flashes but doesnt stay on.
Did you get the rattle on your 4.8 as well?
Any advice is much appreciated, thanks
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  #17  
Old 08-09-2013, 06:23 PM
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could the rattling be a failed catalytic convertor? will the contents rattle if its broken inside?
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  #18  
Old 08-09-2013, 07:21 PM
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Listened to your video. The sound does eliminate some things but since audio is deceiving it is hard to narrow it down much. It kinda sounds like spark knock from either not enough timing advance or a lean condition. It doesn't sound like a throttle body to me.

I want to make sure you have listened to the engine, idling, while under the bonnet and have not heard any unusual sounds?

We need spark, fuel air to make an engine run. It is getting all of that at an idle but something is causing it to run short of at least one of them as the demands increase.

If coils were that bad I would expect a rough idle or uneven idle and you just had them checked so I would put that aside for now. We need a good code reader to know for sure it is spark related.

It sounds like it is getting lots of air. I will assume that for now after making sure the throttle body flap is not sticking, just have to take off the air input tube to check if the flap has no play in it. If it is fine, spray some carb cleaner wherever you see any deposits and where the flap is secured to the throttle body. To check anything else air related we need the codes.

If it is idling properly, rpms steady, , that leaves petrol. The easiest to eliminate is bad petrol (you know if you have been shopping for the cheapest stuff), then the fuel filter. If your side of the water is similar you can rent the equipment to check fuel pressure from a good parts store. To find out much more that is fuel related we need the codes.

REALLY need to check for codes ASAP if I didn't mention that already.



YI haven't heard it sound that way at higher RPMs. Have you checked fuel pressure or at least the fuel filter?
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  #19  
Old 08-09-2013, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
Listened to your video. The sound does eliminate some things but since audio is deceiving it is hard to narrow it down much. It kinda sounds like spark knock from either not enough timing advance or a lean condition. It doesn't sound like a throttle body to me.

I want to make sure you have listened to the engine, idling, while under the bonnet and have not heard any unusual sounds?

We need spark, fuel air to make an engine run. It is getting all of that at an idle but something is causing it to run short of at least one of them as the demands increase.

If coils were that bad I would expect a rough idle or uneven idle and you just had them checked so I would put that aside for now. We need a good code reader to know for sure it is spark related.

It sounds like it is getting lots of air. I will assume that for now after making sure the throttle body flap is not sticking, just have to take off the air input tube to check if the flap has no play in it. If it is fine, spray some carb cleaner wherever you see any deposits and where the flap is secured to the throttle body. To check anything else air related we need the codes.

If it is idling properly, rpms steady, , that leaves petrol. The easiest to eliminate is bad petrol (you know if you have been shopping for the cheapest stuff), then the fuel filter. If your side of the water is similar you can rent the equipment to check fuel pressure from a good parts store. To find out much more that is fuel related we need the codes.

REALLY need to check for codes ASAP if I didn't mention that already.



YI haven't heard it sound that way at higher RPMs. Have you checked fuel pressure or at least the fuel filter?
Thanks for your reply
I just took car for test drive
Check engine light is on permanently now
There is a slight roughness at idle now as if there is a very slight misfire
I will hopefully get codes checked tomorrow (in 9 hours time)
Thanks for your help
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  #20  
Old 08-09-2013, 10:23 PM
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replace all coils - at least as preventative... this is what i had with bad coil on cyl 5 (4.8 V8) - the car idled kind of ok... slight "murmur" instead of pure purr... driving was ok, as long as i did not push over 2500 RPMs... as i pushed over 2500 the car was "undercutting", as if in a hand combat, somebody hits you hard iin the area just below the chestplate, and that cuts off your breathing - the pedal would hit the floor, the RPMs will surge from 1200 to 2500 and instantly back to 800 and rebounce to 1200 while the car, instead of launching, would actually slow down (if it were rolling and i need to merge, it would not merge). straight outright scary... no engine light... until i drove on long uphill where i had to keep engine running at higher RPMs, the engine light flashed, and finally just stayed on... i had my laptop connected at all the times, and cyl 5 was acting up all along... the moment i stuck in a brand new Bosch coil, everything came to normal...

Go to fleabay, look for INPA... it is the factory software that will let you diagnose many aspects of the car...
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