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#12
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OP - then what was the rotor retaining bolt you referred to? So then the rotor is still not off after removing the retaining screw? |
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#13
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Spray the bolt and around the hub with penetrating oil. Do it again in an hour. Let it sit overnight.
Remove the bolt on the front side of the rotor. Rotors should be replaced when pads are replaced so it doesn't matter if you hit the face of the rotor. Get a bigger hammer! I have a steel head hammer I use to drive railroad spikes. Whack the front of the rotor around the outer face. whack it as hard as you want. It won't hurt anything and might even come off. Before hitting the back of the rotor look at the metal shield so you will know how far away from the rotor and what the shape should be as you might hit the shield and you will need to get it back to original shape and distance from the rotor. Then put two hands on that big a#s hammer and whack the back side on the bottom of the rotor. You may have to whack it many many times and as hard as you can but it will come off. You can rotate the hub if you want but I have never needed to do so. Be sure you don't have a part of your body where the rotor will fall. Before you install the new rotor wire brush the hub and put some high temp anti-seize grease on the bolt and the hub. Would you like some input on the pad removal/ install or are you familiar with the process?
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Dallas |
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#14
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If you go to ceramic compound pads, you'll minimize your rotor replacement in the future. My first set of Akebono pads were installed with new Brembo rotors at 67,000 miles. The pads went 130,000 miles and the rotors showed no measurable wear. Now with 40,000 miles on the second set of Akebono pads, the rotors still look brand new.
2002 X5 3.0 237,000 miles 2004 325i 106,000 miles |
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#15
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WOW, this really helps! I always worrying about hammering it too hard, that it might damage some potential suspension parts. Looks like I was being too gentle. This thing is definitely a b****. But I know how to deal with b****.
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#16
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Ceramic pads are nice because they are low dust pads. They do wear longer and wear rotors less but I still replace the rotors with the pads because they are not very expensive, they have gone through so many heat cycles and the thinner they are the more likely to warp. When I inspect the old rotor they are almost always smooth but they always have a ridge where the pads don't make contact which indicates rotor wear. I am also of the opinion that new pads seat better and wear better on new rotors. That's OCD, maximum performance me.
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Dallas |
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#17
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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#18
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I concur....when in doubt...
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2004 X5 3.0i Mod list: Currently Longer than the maximum allowed characters that can be typed here... ![]() |
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#19
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i would use a dead blow hammer instead of regular hammer...
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#20
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__________________
2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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