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  #11  
Old 08-15-2013, 11:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
Small rotor retaining screw, allen head.
+1
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  #12  
Old 08-15-2013, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricky Bobby View Post
Small rotor retaining screw, allen head.

I thought you said you removed it in your post? Handbrake wouldn't apply to front wheels. Did you take the car out of gear so you could rotate the rotor as you were hammering?

I hope 30 minutes of sweating it out you didn't damage anything in the hub lol!
+1

OP - then what was the rotor retaining bolt you referred to? So then the rotor is still not off after removing the retaining screw?
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  #13  
Old 08-15-2013, 12:19 PM
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Spray the bolt and around the hub with penetrating oil. Do it again in an hour. Let it sit overnight.

Remove the bolt on the front side of the rotor.

Rotors should be replaced when pads are replaced so it doesn't matter if you hit the face of the rotor. Get a bigger hammer! I have a steel head hammer I use to drive railroad spikes. Whack the front of the rotor around the outer face. whack it as hard as you want. It won't hurt anything and might even come off.

Before hitting the back of the rotor look at the metal shield so you will know how far away from the rotor and what the shape should be as you might hit the shield and you will need to get it back to original shape and distance from the rotor.

Then put two hands on that big a#s hammer and whack the back side on the bottom of the rotor. You may have to whack it many many times and as hard as you can but it will come off. You can rotate the hub if you want but I have never needed to do so.

Be sure you don't have a part of your body where the rotor will fall.

Before you install the new rotor wire brush the hub and put some high temp anti-seize grease on the bolt and the hub.

Would you like some input on the pad removal/ install or are you familiar with the process?
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  #14  
Old 08-15-2013, 02:14 PM
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If you go to ceramic compound pads, you'll minimize your rotor replacement in the future. My first set of Akebono pads were installed with new Brembo rotors at 67,000 miles. The pads went 130,000 miles and the rotors showed no measurable wear. Now with 40,000 miles on the second set of Akebono pads, the rotors still look brand new.

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  #15  
Old 08-15-2013, 02:22 PM
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WOW, this really helps! I always worrying about hammering it too hard, that it might damage some potential suspension parts. Looks like I was being too gentle. This thing is definitely a b****. But I know how to deal with b****.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bcredliner View Post
Spray the bolt and around the hub with penetrating oil. Do it again in an hour. Let it sit overnight.

Remove the bolt on the front side of the rotor.

Rotors should be replaced when pads are replaced so it doesn't matter if you hit the face of the rotor. Get a bigger hammer! I have a steel head hammer I use to drive railroad spikes. Whack the front of the rotor around the outer face. whack it as hard as you want. It won't hurt anything and might even come off.

Before hitting the back of the rotor look at the metal shield so you will know how far away from the rotor and what the shape should be as you might hit the shield and you will need to get it back to original shape and distance from the rotor.

Then put two hands on that big a#s hammer and whack the back side on the bottom of the rotor. You may have to whack it many many times and as hard as you can but it will come off. You can rotate the hub if you want but I have never needed to do so.

Be sure you don't have a part of your body where the rotor will fall.

Before you install the new rotor wire brush the hub and put some high temp anti-seize grease on the bolt and the hub.

Would you like some input on the pad removal/ install or are you familiar with the process?
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  #16  
Old 08-15-2013, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeiZ View Post
WOW, this really helps! I always worrying about hammering it too hard, that it might damage some potential suspension parts. Looks like I was being too gentle. This thing is definitely a b****. But I know how to deal with b****.
Are you comfortable with how to do the rest of the job?

Ceramic pads are nice because they are low dust pads. They do wear longer and wear rotors less but I still replace the rotors with the pads because they are not very expensive, they have gone through so many heat cycles and the thinner they are the more likely to warp. When I inspect the old rotor they are almost always smooth but they always have a ridge where the pads don't make contact which indicates rotor wear. I am also of the opinion that new pads seat better and wear better on new rotors. That's OCD, maximum performance me.
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  #17  
Old 08-15-2013, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeiZ View Post
I was doing a simple front brake rotor replacement last night. Got everything out of the way, wheels, caliper, carrier bracket, rotor retaining bolt, etc. Now comes my stupid part: Time to remove the old rotor. It just stuck to the hub and won't come OFF. I tried rubber mallet, hammer, crawl under the car and hammer it HARD. Just won't come off. After making all kinds of noise for over 30 minutes, ya, 30 minutes, I quit! This shit must be soooooo rusted to the hub, I was thinking. Better let the garage to handle it. Next 20 minutes, I put everything back on..........

This morning, I just can't help thinking the whole process in my head over and over again. Suddenly I realized, SHIT! I was SOOOOOO stupid!!!! I forgot one thing! No wonder why it stuck to the hub and not come off.

I'm sure you all know what I forgot...
You didn't bring it to a professional.
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  #18  
Old 08-15-2013, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upallnight View Post
You didn't bring it to a professional.
I concur....when in doubt...
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  #19  
Old 08-15-2013, 07:17 PM
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i would use a dead blow hammer instead of regular hammer...
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  #20  
Old 08-15-2013, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TerminatorX5 View Post
i would use a dead blow hammer instead of regular hammer...
I think he's using a Rubber Mallet.
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Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire
Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered
Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered
PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen
Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids
BMW 525IT Sold
Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold
Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold
Opel 1900 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold
Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold
Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD
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