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#1
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![]() When the button on the key fob is pushed you can here the actuator move but it goes back to it's original position (see video). Now this obviously points towards a faulty actuator but I have now bought two second hand ones and I get the exact same response from those as I did my original one!! Am i just incredibly unlucky and bought two actuators with the same fault as my original one or is there another cause of this problem? Video: http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/5...ilddmozvex.mp4
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2009 E70 X5 35d M-Sport Black Sapphire / Tan Leather - LCI Tail Lights Sold - E53 X5 3.0d Sport Black Sapphire / Black Leather - OEM 214 type alloys - Wheel Arch Extension Kit - Depo A/E Headlights - 55w HID's - LED Tails - M3 S/Wheel - Black Kidneys - LED Int Lights. Sold - E53 X5 4.4i Sport |
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#2
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Are you sure its the actuator? I'm having similar problem...my rear doors won't unlock at all with the key fob nor the central lock switch, only the front doors....my first thought would be the central lock switch so I temporarily took the switch off from my other car just to see if it works but same problem. I googled the problem and its all pointing to the GM3 which is very expensive to replace....my plan is to have it repaired, the door lock problems are usually connected with relay failures in the GM3......bmwgm5.com has all the info...you could email the guy and tell him exactly the problem he might be able to help you...
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#3
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Quote:
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#4
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I've had this issue on occasion and it ended up being the voltage reg on the alt. If the voltage drops below threshold, it will not unlock the doors. You can actually see and hear when it will happen. When you unlock when everything is normal, you can hear the actuator on the rear doors engage. When hitting the button again, it will pop the lock. But when the system is low on juice, the rear doors will not function properly. I ended up replacing my voltage reg and for months, the problem hasnt reared its head again. I confirmed the issue by doing a volt test... Whenever the problem occurred, I check the voltage and it was at 9.5 volts. After opening the door, resetting the system and locking the car again... unlock and all doors unlocked, checked voltage and it was at 12.4v. So if this is the problem you are experiencing, check the voltage.
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2011 E70 50i M Sport Exterior: Alpine Weiss III Interior: Nevada PACKAGES: . |
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#5
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Are you sure all the actuators are in sync with one another?
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2006 Infiniti G35 2001 BMW 3.0I E53 X5 Build date 08/2000 SOLD Lotus Europa 1970 Destroyed by fire Lotus Europa 1970 S2 Renault Powered Lotus Type 52 1970 Twincam Webers Powered PORSCHE 911 Targa 1982 The Garage Queen Audi Avant donated to Kars for Kids BMW 525IT Sold Audi 4000CS Quattro Sold Jensen Healey Lotus Powered Sold Opel 1900 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1971 Sold Triumph Spitfire 1968 Sold Plymouth "Cuda" 340 Six pack SOLD |
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#6
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What you mean? And How woudl I check that? I dont understand your reply
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#7
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I had a similar problem with my front passenger's side. In my case it was the window switch that was loose a bit from the connector. I unplugged it and plugged it back on, problem solved. May work for you as well.
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#8
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the loose window swith messed with the door locking issue? |
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#9
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Yeap believe it or not that was the issue
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| actuator, central locking, door lock, e53 |
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