No ABS, No DSC, No Traction Control, No Speedometer

[macmac80210]

Originally Posted by Cadesto

Cant help but think of my cluster issues other week after jump starting the X.
Just a suggestion but try pulling and testing all your fuses in the glove box and the rear hatch.. Non of mine ended up blown but either one was loose or pulling the certain fuse <have no idea which one(s)> did the tricl for me.. Easy place to start at least..
Cover your ears and make sure you have a flashlight on when you pull #14 in the glove box.

Thank you for the tip with the fuses. This weekend I'm going to check all speed sensors, and all of the fuses. If it's not a speed sensor, I'll send my ABS module to be rebuilt.

Also, with regards to the voltage, it is only low when the subs are on, when the amp is unplugged, it does not dip. Wouldn't I also have experienced some sort of cranking/starting issue if the battery was the issue?

[TerminatorX5]

mac, i don't think you have a serious issue with the alt or the battery - while those can throw a wrench in well oiled machine, you do not show any other symptoms of bad alt or battery... even your voltage is fine, a tad low but nevertheless, fine...


one of the reasons that the lights inside the cluster are not on could be that the LEDs inside are either burnt out or disconnected - run a test 2 to see if the lights are good...

start out with sensor testing first - pull headlight, test at the connector. even if you find a bad sensor, don't run to buy a sensor - go to the problem wheelwell, test the actual sensor at the wheel, then test the line for continuity rom wheel to ABS connector

good diagnosis is 90% of solution...

[macmac80210]

Originally Posted by TerminatorX5

mac, i don't think you have a serious issue with the alt or the battery - while those can throw a wrench in well oiled machine, you do not show any other symptoms of bad alt or battery... even your voltage is fine, a tad low but nevertheless, fine...


one of the reasons that the lights inside the cluster are not on could be that the LEDs inside are either burnt out or disconnected - run a test 2 to see if the lights are good...

start out with sensor testing first - pull headlight, test at the connector. even if you find a bad sensor, don't run to buy a sensor - go to the problem wheelwell, test the actual sensor at the wheel, then test the line for continuity rom wheel to ABS connector

good diagnosis is 90% of solution...

Do you have any links to how to test the cluster LEDs for my e53?

I will follow the procedure and test all of the speed sensors.

[TerminatorX5]

you have a 4.4, so probably you have a high cluster... press and hold the right knob on the instrument cluster until the words TEST 01 comes on. release the right knob and press it once more to have TEST 02 come on the display... press left button (that normally resets the tripometer)... this should give you the light show... it will show if the bulbs are out or not, as every light on the dash lights up

[bcredliner]

Yes at some point you would have starting problems especially after X has been sitting overnight. You haven't said anything that implicates the battery or alternator as the problem so I wouldn't focus on that this weekend.

As mentioned it could be a fuse. I don't know of ABS or speed sensor fuses. I do know there are DSC fuses. The DSC fuses that could cause your problem are F51,F55 and F63. F51 is also the fuse for fuel pump relay and other areas that would cause other symptoms you don't have. F55 and F63 are dedicated DSC fuses. That said, I don't think it is a fuse since you have a speed sensor error and and no speedo that would not be related to these fuses.

I think a working RR speed sensor harness will solve all your issues. There are speed sensors at each wheel. The speed sensors send input to both the ABS and DSC. The right rear speed sensor is the source for vehicle speed. The logical conclusion is that all your problems are due to RR sensor that is not functioning.

I have never tried it which means I have no idea if it would work, but, I would change the left rear harness to the right rear and see I get the speedo back, assuming both the rear sensors are the same part numbers. If I did I would have confirmation it is the RR sensor harness.

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by TerminatorX5

mac, i don't think you have a serious issue with the alt or the battery - while those can throw a wrench in well oiled machine, you do not show any other symptoms of bad alt or battery... even your voltage is fine, a tad low but nevertheless, fine...


one of the reasons that the lights inside the cluster are not on could be that the LEDs inside are either burnt out or disconnected - run a test 2 to see if the lights are good...

start out with sensor testing first - pull headlight, test at the connector. even if you find a bad sensor, don't run to buy a sensor - go to the problem wheelwell, test the actual sensor at the wheel, then test the line for continuity rom wheel to ABS connector

good diagnosis is 90% of solution...

This is a better way to confirm it is the RR speed sensor than changing LR harness to the RR if have the testing equipment. I assume the key would have to be in the on position do the voltage tests.

[macmac80210]

I ran the test, and I am not sure if I even have lights for just sent control or ABS, or traction control. When I press the DSC button on my dashboard, no light changes on my instrument cluster. I am not sure if I even have lights for all of those things.

[TerminatorX5]

Originally Posted by bcredliner

This is a better way to confirm it is the RR speed sensor than changing LR harness to the RR if have the testing equipment. I assume the key would have to be in the on position do the voltage tests.

for this particular test you don't need to have ignition key to be on -

the Hall effect sensors, the diodes inside those sensors, are passive components, "interrogated" by the "active ABS module... when a connector disconnected from the ABS module, you can't have the voltage generated by the ABS module to be passed onto the hall effect sensor, therefore, for this particular test, we only test to see if the diodes are operating as designed...

the result of this test can be that the all 4 sensors give us good readings, then i would see if the sensor housings are dirty or otherwise compromised...

the result could be, that one sensor is not reporting to the ABS... then i would pull a wheel and test the sensor right at the wheel... at this point, the sensor still can be dead (replace the sensor with a good quality one), or, the sensor can be good but the line from the sensor to the module is compromized... in this case, test the line, to verify that the line is bad...

if, after all the tests, it seems that the sensors and the lines are good, thelast thing left is the module itself... then send it off for repairs... while you can drive the car without the module, try to limit your driving, if possible...

[TerminatorX5]

so, the ABS lights did not come on at all? even for a very short blink of a time?

[macmac80210]

Originally Posted by TerminatorX5

so, the ABS lights did not come on at all? even for a very short blink of a time?

I don't think that I even have them? Where would it be? I did not see any ABS light.