Brake Job

[bcredliner]

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

I should have said for street/DD use, mixing pad compounds is not a good idea.

Yes, you should have thought about every circumstance in the world that might be an exception. Don't you know there is a significant percentage of X owners that rotation and trail braking is a priority.

So you know for the future, I found I had to put the grippier pads on the front of my Texas mower to get around trees in my yard without missing grass that needs cutting.

[TiAgX5]

I prefer to mow in a straight line.......

[racingbmwm3]

straight lines are boring.
2012 STA-BIL Keeps Gas Fresh Finals Clippings: FXT Class - YouTube

[admranger]

Quit taking pictures of all my yard implements.

I was only having a bit of fun. TiAgX5 is correct of mixing compounds of brake pads or tires on a regular vehicle.

[CrazyOneToo]

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

Looks were secondary for me too.

These are made/machined in the USA, 300 series iron. I did a 100% inspection of flatness, parallelism, runout and dynamic balance. Everything checked out.

These come with a 1 yr warranty, if they did not check out I planned on returning for a refund. If they crack I will return them.

I've done two 12 stop cycles from 50/60 mph to 5 mph near ABS activation, to bed/mat'l transfer the pads/rotors (allowed full cooldown between the two cycles). After about 5 wks of use I went out and did a series of +100 mph to 10 mph stops (early am, empty hwy).

No cracking or issues.

Does that procedure need to be done on all brakes? I went with some Mayle solid rotors (via ECS Tuning) and some Genuine BMW pads I found on eBay. Hope they are not knockoffs. I'm not sure how to know for sure. I would like to seat the pads in right so I have no issues later on. Also can I re-do this to my other car if its pulsing when coming to a stop? When I changed the brakes on it I didnt bed them in. I didn't know to.

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[TiAgX5]

When new pads/rotors are not bedded/heat cycled, you run the risk of uneven pad materal transfer onto the rotor while stationary after a hard stop (avoiding 45+ MPH roads with stoplights is a must, unless you drive it under 40 and assume every light will turn red as you approach).

Most pulsing issues post brake job are caused by this. The solution is getting the rotor surfaces re-scuffed and following a proper bed procedure.

[CrazyOneToo]

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

When new pads/rotors are not bedded/heat cycled, you run the risk of uneven pad materal transfer onto the rotor while stationary after a hard stop (avoiding 45+ MPH roads with stoplights is a must, unless you drive it under 40 and assume every light will turn red as you approach).

Most pulsing issues post brake job are caused by this. The solution is getting the rotor surfaces re-scuffed and following a proper bed procedure.

OK how would I re-scuff them? With a wire brush, small grit sandpaper, steel wool or what?
On the car I need re-scuffed I don't do much driving. Its usually short drives in town when I drive it.

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[TiAgX5]

Originally Posted by CrazyOneToo

OK how would I re-scuff them? With a wire brush, small grit sandpaper, steel wool or what?
On the car I need re-scuffed I don't do much driving. Its usually short drives in town when I drive it.

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A rotary scotch-brite pad on a hand drill or small right angle grinder does the trick.

[CrazyOneToo]

Originally Posted by TiAgX5

A rotary scotch-brite pad on a hand drill or small right angle grinder does the trick.

That seems easy enough. I'll check into it when I get a free weekend.
Thanks