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  #1  
Old 12-18-2013, 03:59 PM
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Oil leak: Dealer says it's the oil cooler seal??????

Not sure I have the correct term but thats pretty much what they said was leaking. Anyone know where this is located/diagram ?

Dealer is charging me 850$ ( parts 11$ + 5 hr labor). Does this sound fair?
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Old 12-18-2013, 04:50 PM
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Not sure which one of the X's you refer to, but here's the oil cooler. In front and below the radiator. The pipes have an O-ring where they fit in the cooler - diagram. Maybe these are bust.
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Old 12-18-2013, 05:40 PM
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It's for the e53 (4.8).
Thanks for the diagram. 5hr labor time??? Wow that doesn't sound right.
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Old 12-18-2013, 09:34 PM
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Hello , hope this helps. On that V8 engine on the L/S of the engine where the oil cooler supply and return lines connect. There is a plate which also holds the mount for the alternator. There is a gasket between the engine block and 2 "o" rings for the lines. The gasket between the engine block and mounting plate is a common spot for leakage. To see the gasket in question check on real oem and go to group 12 for engine electrical then click on alternator mounting. It will show the gasket that needs replacement. Its a fairly involved job thus the high labor low parts price. Good luck. Jeff
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Old 12-19-2013, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daspud View Post
Hello , hope this helps. On that V8 engine on the L/S of the engine where the oil cooler supply and return lines connect. There is a plate which also holds the mount for the alternator. There is a gasket between the engine block and 2 "o" rings for the lines. The gasket between the engine block and mounting plate is a common spot for leakage. To see the gasket in question check on real oem and go to group 12 for engine electrical then click on alternator mounting. It will show the gasket that needs replacement. Its a fairly involved job thus the high labor low parts price. Good luck. Jeff

So it's part # 2 (p/n 12317507808) in the diagram below. Realoem list the part 1.48$, but not cheap to replace......

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Old 12-19-2013, 01:22 PM
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Yes , there are also 2 o rings for the lines and 2 o rings on a thermostat assembly attached to that plate.
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  #7  
Old 02-09-2014, 05:32 PM
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bmw doesn`t make it easy to work on these things ,over engineered.
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Old 02-09-2014, 07:19 PM
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Yes. You need to remove front driveshaft and unbolt front differential. Than use two pry bars and slightly pry differential out. About 1/2 inch. You will be able to rotate diff clockwise and get that last bolt out. I just did this job 2 month ago. If you have any question please PM me.


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Old 02-09-2014, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axgordon View Post
Yes. You need to remove front driveshaft and unbolt front differential. Than use two pry bars and slightly pry differential out. About 1/2 inch. You will be able to rotate diff clockwise and get that last bolt out. I just did this job 2 month ago. If you have any question please PM me.


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BTW , Welcome to the forum....
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axgordon View Post
Yes. You need to remove front driveshaft and unbolt front differential. Than use two pry bars and slightly pry differential out. About 1/2 inch. You will be able to rotate diff clockwise and get that last bolt out. I just did this job 2 month ago. If you have any question please PM me.


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Welcome to the forum!!! This must be a First. Most first time posters come to this forum seeking help for their BM Trouble U. You on the other hand offer advice to a member that was having problem with his BM Trouble U. Hope that you will continue to post help.


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