X-drive fluid change and front control arms DIY

[Isambard]

Originally Posted by JCL

Two comments for the OP:

2) Why would turning a crush washer over prevent one from replacing it? It seals on both sides, and a leak on side a is just as bad as a leak on side b. Good practice to replace it every time.

Not only that, is your time getting back under the car and cleaning up oil leaks worth less than a couple of bucks for the new washer?

[4.8isX5]

@gurjit- yes and also when i had the wheel off i saw cracks.

Normally when i do suspention jobs i do everything in one shot, balljoints/tierods/arms etc. Since you have it apart anyways.

I just changed these first for the reason of its not a part that i have to remove other parts to get to. Just did these first so when i order the rest of the parts i dont have to shell out that extra $ and it lightens the cost next order down the line.

After i replaced them you do feel the diff rightr away, car has a better "turn in" and feels more settled over the bumps. Its tighter but no extra bounce/shimmy etc

[4.8isX5]

@islambard-

I do car work alot, and have been for a long time. It doesnt leak ive reused copper washers in the past. If it would leak i obviously wouldnt say to not change them out and also just for myself to have to lift car up again.

[Isambard]

Originally Posted by 4.8isX5

@islambard-

I do car work alot, and have been for a long time. It doesnt leak ive reused copper washers in the past. If it would leak i obviously wouldnt say to not change them out and also just for myself to have to lift car up again.

LOL.. 'islambard'. It's Isambard as in Kingdom Brunel..?

Nevermind, I was just agreeing with JCL because I would replace it too so as not to run ANY risk of future leaks.

[Gurjit]

I got a pair of poly bushings and the ball joints that go on the spindle,
All for the front tension/control arm
Will post once my mechanic is availible because i dont have a press @ home

My tie rod ends wore out at 96,000km i replaced those with lemforder and have had no problems with them since and im at 137,000km

[4.8isX5]

Isambard...

Hahah sorry bro was replying from the phone and a few drinks deep

[Isambard]

..oh dear, drinks and messages from a mobile phone. A dangerous mix if ever I've seen one!

[JCL]

Originally Posted by 4.8isX5

@islambard-

I do car work alot, and have been for a long time. It doesnt leak. I've reused copper washers in the past. If it would leak I obviously wouldn't say to not change them out and also just for myself to have to lift car up again.

As one who does mechanical repairs a lot, you know then that reused crush washers can leak. If you got away with it this time, great. I've been stuck and had to reuse a crush washer on occasion too. But there is a difference between getting by, and in advising anyone reading this thread who comes after you and who hasn't done the same number of mechanical repairs that they don't need to worry about it. The advice should be to always change it, and if you can't do so, to check it after to see if it is seeping. That makes the thread more useful to those who follow.

That was the same reason I asked if you were changing the settings in the computer related to having installed new fluid. Your fluid wasn't worn out (colour is irrelevant) since you didn't have the error code for fluid being out of spec. But by changing the fluid and not resetting the computer you risk damage to the system. If you want to chance it, that's no problem, it's your call. But for those reading these posts and taking them as advice, it is worth telling them how to do it properly, in my opinion.

I hadn't mentioned it, but along those same lines, using the correct sized tools on the fill and drain plugs, and using a torque wrench to set the plugs to the correct spec are both worth doing.

Cheers

Jeff

[X5only]

Originally Posted by JCL

As one who does mechanical repairs a lot, you know then that reused crush washers can leak. If you got away with it this time, great. I've been stuck and had to reuse a crush washer on occasion too. But there is a difference between getting by, and in advising anyone reading this thread who comes after you and who hasn't done the same number of mechanical repairs that they don't need to worry about it. The advice should be to always change it, and if you can't do so, to check it after to see if it is seeping. That makes the thread more useful to those who follow.

That was the same reason I asked if you were changing the settings in the computer related to having installed new fluid. Your fluid wasn't worn out (colour is irrelevant) since you didn't have the error code for fluid being out of spec. But by changing the fluid and not resetting the computer you risk damage to the system. If you want to chance it, that's no problem, it's your call. But for those reading these posts and taking them as advice, it is worth telling them how to do it properly, in my opinion.

I hadn't mentioned it, but along those same lines, using the correct sized tools on the fill and drain plugs, and using a torque wrench to set the plugs to the correct spec are both worth doing.

Cheers

Jeff

If I recall correctly it's absolutely essential to reset the computer after transfer case fluid change per TIS and Bentley manual. About 3k miles ago I did a transfer case fluid drain refill to resolve whinning noise from it. The noise is now completely gone but I also made sure to run GTI transfer case oil change procedure. I have GTI running on a VM in my Windows 7 notebook.

[JCL]

Originally Posted by X5only

If I recall correctly it's absolutely essential to reset the computer after transfer case fluid change per TIS and Bentley manual...

That is true. It is the reason I was posting my follow ups. I don't think the OP is going to reset his, but at least future readers will see the discussion. The danger is that the incorrect procedure was posted with DIY in the subject line, and he thread will come up in search results.