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  #1  
Old 03-21-2014, 06:10 AM
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Interesting, do you have the link to the ebay part? If you have not installed your kit yet would you mind giving me a measurement from the bottom of the ball to the bottom of the busing at whatever hight you are planning to try?

The ssk kit looks pretty nice. Lots of adjustment and reasonably priced. I wasn't crazy about the last UUC I had on my e30m. I ended up pulling and selling it. It might have been me though since everyone else seems to think they are great.

Curious to see how it all turns out.
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  #2  
Old 03-30-2014, 08:08 PM
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Mission accomplished with new rear carrier mount and ZHP shift knob installed with my completed Titan Silver interior trim swap. The ZHP shift knob is NICE for 63 bucks and if you spring for the 8 dollar non M insert like I did, it's stealthy and belongs in our vehicles.

At 72k miles the rear carrier mount "shift bearing" swap for 20 bucks was worth it, the rubber on the mount was extremely pliable and moveable compared to a new mount, highly recommended to replace yours when doing the SSK



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2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE
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  #3  
Old 03-30-2014, 08:36 PM
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Looks sharp!
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  #4  
Old 03-30-2014, 09:05 PM
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Jay, looks awesome bud! You'll have to e-mail some tips on the center console install. Nice job
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  #5  
Old 03-30-2014, 09:33 PM
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I will say Sammy that the console is not as hard as everyone says, literally all you need to do is follow the directions on the How To's.

The hardest part of the console is making sure you don't break any clips and that you take your time when reinstalling to make sure everything is reseated correctly.

Probably an hour on the removal and half hour to reinstall. It's really only 13 screws and 7 plugs to remove
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2018 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 68RFE
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2013 X5 35D (CEO's) - Born on 5/17/2013 -
82k miles - Alpine White/Cinnamon Brown/Premium Pkg, Sport Activity/Premium Pkg and Sound/20" Style 214/Running Boards

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  #6  
Old 03-31-2014, 08:25 AM
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Thanks Jay, that's great to hear! Now I'm motivated
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  #7  
Old 04-13-2014, 07:24 PM
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Notch another win up to the carrier pins

I got my SSK in but there was no way the carrier pins were coming out. After several hours of massaging them back and forth about 30 degrees, I decided to give up before I broke the retaining clips off. Not sure who had mentioned it first, but removing the rear carrier mount completely(2 M10 nuts) makes it a piece of cake to raise the carrier enough to get the job done from inside the car.

I pretty much figured out I was in for a tough time when I could see the corrosion on the visible part of the pins - They are so swollen with corrosion, there is no way they are coming out of there unless the transfer case is dropped to be able to press them out from the inside.

I am convinced I need to replace all the bushings in the assembly as there is stll a lot of play in the carrier itself so I will need to try again at some point.

Only advice I can add is to use a rag under the entire work area per below to catch the inevitable dropped M3 screw. Of course, I fugured this out after I dropped/lost one of the screws. I need to go back in there to replace the original inner boot anyway so I will put the 6th screw in then.
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  #8  
Old 04-14-2014, 01:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GRBE53 View Post
I got my SSK in but there was no way the carrier pins were coming out. After several hours of massaging them back and forth about 30 degrees, I decided to give up before I broke the retaining clips off. Not sure who had mentioned it first, but removing the rear carrier mount completely(2 M10 nuts) makes it a piece of cake to raise the carrier enough to get the job done from inside the car.

I pretty much figured out I was in for a tough time when I could see the corrosion on the visible part of the pins - They are so swollen with corrosion, there is no way they are coming out of there unless the transfer case is dropped to be able to press them out from the inside.

I am convinced I need to replace all the bushings in the assembly as there is stll a lot of play in the carrier itself so I will need to try again at some point.

Only advice I can add is to use a rag under the entire work area per below to catch the inevitable dropped M3 screw. Of course, I fugured this out after I dropped/lost one of the screws. I need to go back in there to replace the original inner boot anyway so I will put the 6th screw in then.

Nice to see another SSK kit going in! Mine is almost done, just no time at the momentDid you ever get to the bottom of your clutch engagement issues?

Yeah, there is some stuff called "Kroil" that I use on corroded, rusted impellers at work that is some good ole nasty stuff, but works very well. It puts PB Blaster to shame. It might be just the ticket for corroded bushings. I've used it on exhaust work that I thought for sure I'd break the stud before the nut broke loose. Nut sure if it would make the bushing swell, but thought I'd put it out there.
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2005 X5 3.0, 6MT, Alpine White on Truffle Brown, Sport, Preim, and Cold Weather, Alpina Stainless Headers, AFe Intake, UUC SSK, OEM 87's, 3.64 Differential Swap,Performance Modified Euro 2 Tune, UUC LTW Flywheel and HD clutch, Bilstein B12 Suspension kit
Future mods ZHP/Schrick Cam Shaft upgrade, Operation code name:Doppelschrauben-Kompressor

Wife's Ride: 2011 e70 X5 351 M///Sport.

Also in the fold: 2004 X3 3.0, 6MT, Black Sapphire on Terracotta, port, Premium, Cold Weather.
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  #9  
Old 04-14-2014, 07:51 AM
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Thanks for the tip on the Kroil - I will check that out.

Didn't make any progress on the clutch. I am trying to isolate the circumstances where it gets worse.
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  #10  
Old 03-31-2014, 10:21 AM
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Handsone interior rework, RB . . .
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born Valentine's Day, 2006.
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